Workshop 16a socket question

[Wizard9999]

I need to fit a couple of 16a sockets in my workshop and wondered if anyone can help with a question. I have a couple of sockets that look like this...



My workshop construction is fairly typical with an OSB inner skin over stud walls with the cavity stuffed with rockwool insulation. To mount the socket I will need to cut a whole in the OSB and recess the red section, where the wiring connects, into the cavity where it will be nestled cozily into the rockwool. My question is whether this will be Part P compliant when I eventually come to getting a qualified electrician in to sign it all off?

Any help from those with knowledge of Part P would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Terry.

 

[OLD]

I would mount on a plastic box then surface mount on the wall .

 

[Lons]

I have 1 for powering my SIP tablesaw Terry and it looks very like this image off the net. I also have an extension cable with plug and in-line socket left over from my caravaning days all 16 amp stuff.
If you don't want to buy more sockets then you'll need to get a couple of strong boxes to mount yours on, can't take any risks with 16a supply though.

cheers
Bob

 

[James-1986]

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p20698

I use those, surface mount and I prefer the plug pointing down rather than sticking out waiting to be smashed off!

 

[Lons]

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p20698

I use those, surface mount and I prefer the plug pointing down rather than sticking out waiting to be smashed off!

That's where I bought mine and fixed pointing down as well.
Been using mine for quite a few years now without problems.

 

[monkeybiter]

I have the same socket for my TS, it WAS also pointed down. However I built a large moving base for the TS, and on several occasions accidentally ripped the plug from the socket (homer) [breaking the socket].
So I recently mounted the socket horizontally so that when I get my Duff head on again it should be less damaging.

Now, my mate did suggest just fitting a longer cable to the TS , but that's far too sensible.

 

[siggy_7]

Part P is the building regulation which has very little detail, the document you need to refer out to is the 17th edition wiring regulations. Provided you have worked out conductor capacity using the appropriate method (for an insulated wall) I don't see why there would be a problem. I would put the back of the socket in a recessed plastic wall box though rather than allow the insulation to abut the terminals.

 

[n0legs]

The socket you have is for panel mounting, like on the front of a portable generator or for mounting to some other electrical outlet (maybe one incorporating a switch or protection device).
If you want to use that type rather than the angled style shown by Bob (Lons), buy an adaptable box and mount the socket to that.
Please don't leave open terminals inside the wall.

 

[HOJ]

As has been said, fit inside a box, flush or surface mounted.

Part P is basically aimed at domestic installations,(Dwellings) and not "Workshops" unless they form part of the same installation.

Wiring Regs will allow the use of a socket as a means of isolation for mechanical maintenance,
but will need to have a switch incorporated to provide emergency switching to "prevent or remove danger", may also need a switch to offer functional switching.

Its all down to definitions, and the type of device/machine to be served.

I will always install a combination unit rather than just a socket on its own, trying to pull a 16Amp plug out in a hurry isn't easy.

 

[Wizard9999]

Thanks everyone for your help. Conclusion is I bought the wrong socket but it was only a few quid so tomorrow I'll be back at ToolStation buying the correct one.

Thanks again,
Terry.

 

[Myfordman]

If the original one came from toolsatan, I think they will take it back?

 

[Wizard9999]

Doubt it given i had to butcher the plastic packaging to get it out.

Terry.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I'd still take it if you've got the receipt Terry. Retailers are obliged to exchange goods if they're not fit for purpose and it's not your fault the packaging is nuclear bomb proof!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I wouldn't have thought that law applied to buying the wrong product - the product is undoubtedly fine for its purpose but its purpose isn't the OPs, otherwise I could take back the lousy pizza I had from Tesco on the grounds that it didn't clean my windows very well.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I'm prepared to bet if he takes it back they'll change it!

 

[bushy]

The one thing you have to remember is that the commando socket you want to fit is not fused so make sure the cable the cable feeding it has the right size MCB behind it . Plus without a suitable back box giving it the correct IP rating it is not compliant .

I am a Sparky by the way .

Cheers Stu

 

[Wizard9999]

The one thing you have to remember is that the commando socket you want to fit is not fused so make sure the cable the cable feeding it has the right size MCB behind it . Plus without a suitable back box giving it the correct IP rating it is not compliant .

I am a Sparky by the way .

Cheers Stu

Thanks Stu. Foregive my ignorance, when you refer to a commando socket do you mean the type i posted a picture of or the type others such as Lons pointed me towards?

Thanks,
Terry.

 

[CHJ]

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=commando+socket

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=commando+plug

 

[HOJ]

This would be my preferred option.

http://www.sparkydirect.co.uk/produ...zontal-Interlocked-Surface-Socket-/index.html

Not sure toolstation/screwfix stock them, Electrical wholesalers will though, just watch the pricing.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

The one thing you have to remember is that the commando socket you want to fit is not fused so make sure the cable the cable feeding it has the right size MCB behind it . Plus without a suitable back box giving it the correct IP rating it is not compliant .

I am a Sparky by the way .

Cheers Stu

And make sure the cable is the right size also.

Did you get it sorted?