Wooden door surround

[billybuntus]

I'm planning to replace our front door surround which incorporates two upright square columns and a canopy with a 3 feet deep panelled reveal.

I was initially planning to use marine ply and mouldings but having suffered with ply de laminating I'm now thinking redwood or similar may be the way to go.

Any suggestions?

thanks

 

[billybuntus]

Its also fully south facing...

 

[hanser]

Any chance of a photo?

 

[billybuntus]

Not the best picture but you get the idea.

I have an old timber door with large bolection mouldings to fit which is around 32" wide which will look far better than the skinny modern timber door that's fitted.

The stone cladding is going also.

You can't really see the depth but inside the reveal its all panelled.

 

[AndyT]

It's still a bit hard to tell how much you are wanting to replace. I think you are saying that the door is about three feet back from the front face of the columns, and that the sides of that space are lined with timber panelling, which is what you want to replace.

If that's so, and your intention is to get some of the period appearance back, then I'd say that replacing it with something as close as possible to the original is the way to go. Even under paint, plywood with planted on mouldings never looks right.

Are the surfaces of the panels flush; set back with a square edge to the stiles and rails; or with a moulded/beaded edge?

 

[billybuntus]

Sorry. I've now got decent pics.

The whole thing is rotten so I'll be removing the whole lot so I can change the door casing and fit the wider and taller door.

I've acquired a couple of nice corbels for the canopy.

The steps leading to it are also knackered and will be fully replaced. I hope to hide that huge electrical cable while I'm on.

The front of the house will be rendered in time.

Thanks

 

[AndyT]

That's quite a stylish doorway, well worth the effort to reproduce it again. Old books from the period will help, but your best guide to how to do it will be the old work itself, carefully dismantled and measured.

This may help a bit: (and the following few pages)

http://www.archive.org/stream/cassellscarpentr00hasl#page/344/mode/2up

 

[billybuntus]

Thanks Andy.

I hadn't even thought of looking how it was assembled. It's presumably a fair age so I can't go too far wrong reproducing it.

The first detail I'll be changing is the bottom section. I'll have the local stone place make up a pair of stone 'feet' for want of a better word to stop the splahback from rain etc rotting it. Not sure yet If I'll paint the stone to blend it in with the joinery work.

Having suffered with rotting exterior ply on some gates I've looked into how the boat builders keep the water at bay and quite a lot of them swear by covering all timber in epoxy resin, sanding it back and painting over it to encapsulate it and prevent moisture ingress.

The skeleton frame is presumably to allow airflow behind the structure to some extent.

Any idea's on what type of timber to use?

 

[AndyT]

Jacob could probably advise - he's done a lot more of this sort of thing than I have - but I think he'd say that you need to find some decent quality redwood, slow grown and properly seasoned.

 

[billybuntus]

Thanks Andy.

Just having a read and I could possibly use Douglas fur? Seems more expensive than redwood but its clear without problematic resinous knots?

I'm not too worried on cost as long as the job is done well and only needs painting every few years.

Having spent £500 on a pair of gates a year ago only to have to repair major sections despite a reasonable amount of research, time and plenty of effort I think I'll be spending what it takes to complete a first rate job, first time round.

 

[billybuntus]

Anyone? I promise to post pics when I start

 

[Andy RV]

Why not use oak? At my local yard Douglas fir is the same price, perhaps even a little bit more expensive.

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

Why not buy some accoya,

You wouldn't use an awful lot, and every piece is useable right into the centre of the timber. Could buy a sheet of tricoya for the panels, and machine to suit. It's incredibly easy to use, and they guarantee against rot for 50 years....plus coatings last a longer service period

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

You could also go right to the dpc without fear of rotting, negating the need for a stone cill either side.

 

[billybuntus]

Why not buy some accoya,

You wouldn't use an awful lot, and every piece is useable right into the centre of the timber. Could buy a sheet of tricoya for the panels, and machine to suit. It's incredibly easy to use, and they guarantee against rot for 50 years....plus coatings last a longer service period

When making internal faux panelling around reveals with beading (pic below) I've been making up a piece of mdf fitted to the reveal then applied rails and stiles on top using mitre mate. I presume I'll not get away with this outdoors? bonding accoya to tricoya?

Is tricoya guaranteed 50 years? I've only used MR MDF in the past. How is it so moisture resistant?

And there's no DPC in the house. Its stone with rubble infill. I'll probably use visqueen in between the panelling and house as a moisture barrier.

Thanks for responding.

 

[billybuntus]

Why not use oak? At my local yard Douglas fir is the same price, perhaps even a little bit more expensive.

I just assumed oak would be overkill?

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

Thats exactly what you can do,

Companies use it for pannels in exterior doors,
Flb doors they use a single piece and v groove it to look like matchboarding..

The timber is modified to block the absorbtion of water at a molecular level, thats how i understand it anyway.

 

[billybuntus]

Thanks for the info. I'll speak to my local merchant tomorrow and see if they can order it in.