WIP: 6mx3m Pent Workshop build: Exterior Done!
- Thread starter Fitzroy
- Start date
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Mecha GG
Member
Great work so far! I've been following this with interest!
Had a question about your spacing: did you go for 40mm for the floor, and 60mm for the walls? How about the roof?
Thanks!
Had a question about your spacing: did you go for 40mm for the floor, and 60mm for the walls? How about the roof?
Thanks!
Woodchips2
Established Member
Well done Fitz.
Re the windows I'd nail some dpc to the back of the windows before fixing them in position and use a good quality sealant externally.
A 1.4m wide door is going to be fairly heavy. I would consider making two leaves with one wide enough to be comfortable to get in and out and the other leaf usually bolted in position unless you need to get something really wide into the shed.
Regards Keith
Re the windows I'd nail some dpc to the back of the windows before fixing them in position and use a good quality sealant externally.
A 1.4m wide door is going to be fairly heavy. I would consider making two leaves with one wide enough to be comfortable to get in and out and the other leaf usually bolted in position unless you need to get something really wide into the shed.
Regards Keith
Mecha GG":363cbmmw said:
Aye, 400mm floor, 600mm walls and roof. Although the roof became slightly more complicated as my original plan utilised spacing to match standard board widths. But on finishing the frame and considering the cladding I realised I needed the roof 15cm wider than the walls to overhang the cladding. This meant an extra roof joist cantilevered beyond each edge and an extra joist in the middle, so the roof is mainly 600mm spacing with some oddments.
Lesson being you can never plan everything.
Been working on the windows. I bought some sawn Douglas Fir boards from a local sawmill. Buying rough sawn wood has been a huge learning curve, this is the fourth lot that I've bought and again I've learnt loads, mainly i was just not prepared well enough!
I knew the bloke had boards of the right size and i'd previously worked out the number of boards I wanted, but i couldn't get in contact before the day i had the van and i dropped in unannounced, well i gave them 20mins notice. So on arrival the boards i wanted (8"x2") were buried at the bottom of a very large wood stack and the seller seemed pretty reluctant to dig them out, but i was by this time wood blind, i just wanted some boards! So we started digging at the top, i was smart enough to reject anything with wane, splits, sap wood (although i missed a bit on the back side of one board), but the only boards looking good were 10"x8" and longer than the ones i had worked out my cutting list against.
I was overexcited and did a quick mental calc that I needed 4 boards, turned out I only needed 3, we had also previously agreed a per board price and I mentally calculated a figure and blabbed it out, he bit my hand off, wood blind excitement again! We'd agreed on £20/cuft, later turned out i'd paid £25 as my mental arithmetic was off, so i'd bought more than I needed and paid more than previously agreed! Ho hum.
At 4.2m long the boards were too long to realistically store anywhere under cover, the first job was to workout which components I would cut from which part of the boards. I have previously cut long boards into shorter boards for storage and then regretted it later as I found i cut in just the wrong place! Boards were cut in half(ish) but such that it maximised timber use, and stored in the old shed.
These rough sawn boards have now been processed into the required components: 6 tall stiles @1.8m 2 short stiles @ 1.0m 3 narrow cills and head rails @0.6m and 1 wide cill and head rail @ 1.8m. All stiles and headers were 100mm x 50mm and cills are 150mm x 50mm. I say 50mm thick but from 2" sawn boards the components ended up 43mm thick, I could have kept the shorter components thicker as they had less bow to plane out but i wanted all components a uniform thickness to make construction easier.
Each rough board was straightened on one edge on the surface planer (planer is Wadkin bft 9).
Straight edge boards were then sawn to rough width on the table saw, they were then face planed on the Wadkin and edged at 90°.
Boards were then put through the thicknesser (Dewalt 1150).
Component blanks planed, thicknessed and four square. Shed cleaned ready for the next operation.
The window are 1.8m tall and 60cm wide, non opening, and I'm trying to figure out if I have space to assemble them in the old shed.
Each component has the rebate cut for the glass using the surface planer. Not an operation I enjoy as the cutter guard has to be removed, the machine will rebate to 1/2".
The cills have the rebate cut as per above, then the fence is canted over and the angle for the cill cut using the front cill edge and fence as reference. The first cut is hairy but once the angle is established on the cill the rebating is as per before. A drip edge was sawn on the table saw.
And repeat for all 16 components.
Made two bags of these, going to put on gumtree FTAGH and hope someone will take them away.
I'd made a mock of of the frame with corner bridle joints a while back. Because the frame dimensions are a little different to a traditional bridle joint I wanted to make sure they would work, the frame is strong and has stayed true for a good while so i'm sticking with my plan.
cont next post.
I knew the bloke had boards of the right size and i'd previously worked out the number of boards I wanted, but i couldn't get in contact before the day i had the van and i dropped in unannounced, well i gave them 20mins notice. So on arrival the boards i wanted (8"x2") were buried at the bottom of a very large wood stack and the seller seemed pretty reluctant to dig them out, but i was by this time wood blind, i just wanted some boards! So we started digging at the top, i was smart enough to reject anything with wane, splits, sap wood (although i missed a bit on the back side of one board), but the only boards looking good were 10"x8" and longer than the ones i had worked out my cutting list against.
I was overexcited and did a quick mental calc that I needed 4 boards, turned out I only needed 3, we had also previously agreed a per board price and I mentally calculated a figure and blabbed it out, he bit my hand off, wood blind excitement again! We'd agreed on £20/cuft, later turned out i'd paid £25 as my mental arithmetic was off, so i'd bought more than I needed and paid more than previously agreed! Ho hum.
At 4.2m long the boards were too long to realistically store anywhere under cover, the first job was to workout which components I would cut from which part of the boards. I have previously cut long boards into shorter boards for storage and then regretted it later as I found i cut in just the wrong place! Boards were cut in half(ish) but such that it maximised timber use, and stored in the old shed.
These rough sawn boards have now been processed into the required components: 6 tall stiles @1.8m 2 short stiles @ 1.0m 3 narrow cills and head rails @0.6m and 1 wide cill and head rail @ 1.8m. All stiles and headers were 100mm x 50mm and cills are 150mm x 50mm. I say 50mm thick but from 2" sawn boards the components ended up 43mm thick, I could have kept the shorter components thicker as they had less bow to plane out but i wanted all components a uniform thickness to make construction easier.
Each rough board was straightened on one edge on the surface planer (planer is Wadkin bft 9).
Straight edge boards were then sawn to rough width on the table saw, they were then face planed on the Wadkin and edged at 90°.
Boards were then put through the thicknesser (Dewalt 1150).
Component blanks planed, thicknessed and four square. Shed cleaned ready for the next operation.
The window are 1.8m tall and 60cm wide, non opening, and I'm trying to figure out if I have space to assemble them in the old shed.
Each component has the rebate cut for the glass using the surface planer. Not an operation I enjoy as the cutter guard has to be removed, the machine will rebate to 1/2".
The cills have the rebate cut as per above, then the fence is canted over and the angle for the cill cut using the front cill edge and fence as reference. The first cut is hairy but once the angle is established on the cill the rebating is as per before. A drip edge was sawn on the table saw.
And repeat for all 16 components.
Made two bags of these, going to put on gumtree FTAGH and hope someone will take them away.
I'd made a mock of of the frame with corner bridle joints a while back. Because the frame dimensions are a little different to a traditional bridle joint I wanted to make sure they would work, the frame is strong and has stayed true for a good while so i'm sticking with my plan.
cont next post.
Attachments
As I am pretty new to all this woodwork malarky i still tend to prototype everything and practice on a test piece. Below is the prototype cill from the rebating operation with bridle joints cut in it. I wanted to get a feel for how the Doug Fir worked.
The bridle joint waste was cut out with a japanese pull saw and coping saw then pared back tot he knife line. The Doug fir works nicely with the grain but I was not at all happy with the joint face where it was chiselled across the grain, with the wood collapsing between growth rings. This is where I questioned my chisel sharpness and the point at which "I found sharp", see other thread.
Those eagle eyes will spy the router table below and the small smoother patch in the joint where i tried a test cut. I've still not decided how to cut these joints and continue to wonder if I can do them on the router table, with final clean up with a very sharp chisel.
I also managed to cut the rebate 6mm too shallow on the first cill I made, luckily i realised my error before making the other components, else I would have been ordering 18mm glazing not 24mm. I found planing the rebate back by these 6mm a hard exercise, the shoulder plane is really only designed to take a shaving off each time and every pass was hard as getting purchase on the plane was awkward. I should probably have routed it back, but it was 11pm at night and I wanted to finish all the components before retiring for the night, i didn't figure routing at this hour was very considerate.
Cheers
Fitz.
The bridle joint waste was cut out with a japanese pull saw and coping saw then pared back tot he knife line. The Doug fir works nicely with the grain but I was not at all happy with the joint face where it was chiselled across the grain, with the wood collapsing between growth rings. This is where I questioned my chisel sharpness and the point at which "I found sharp", see other thread.
Those eagle eyes will spy the router table below and the small smoother patch in the joint where i tried a test cut. I've still not decided how to cut these joints and continue to wonder if I can do them on the router table, with final clean up with a very sharp chisel.
I also managed to cut the rebate 6mm too shallow on the first cill I made, luckily i realised my error before making the other components, else I would have been ordering 18mm glazing not 24mm. I found planing the rebate back by these 6mm a hard exercise, the shoulder plane is really only designed to take a shaving off each time and every pass was hard as getting purchase on the plane was awkward. I should probably have routed it back, but it was 11pm at night and I wanted to finish all the components before retiring for the night, i didn't figure routing at this hour was very considerate.
Cheers
Fitz.
Attachments
Progress has been slow due to work, family, darkening evenings, underestimated effort, and too great an attention to detail. Since last time I've planed and profiled all the battens and battened all the walls, built a raised veggie bed (wife request to get done to get the soil to condition over winter), finished two of the window frames, clad the rear wall which involved finishing (surface plane, straightening and sawing) about 150m of larch. Oh I built a bug hotel with some larch offcuts with my boys. Will do a proper update when the walls are clad and windows in.
Thanks for the interest.
Fitz.
Thanks for the interest.
Fitz.
jlawford
Established Member
Looks great! Hopefully I'll be able to do something similar next year and move out of "my" half of the garage.
Making windows. Frames are built using bridle joints, i cut out the rebates prior to cutting the joints, not sure if it is the correct way but it makes the joints a bit of a faff as the tenons have shoulders that are not an equal height.
I've been tending to leave the shoulder that connects to the rebate on the other frame member a touch long then pare back to fit.
All the joints are cut to a fixed internal length, to be sure to fit the glass I've ordered, the excess will either be trimmed off and pared flush or i may just leave it as the outside edges wont be seen once the window is installed and the internal finish in place.
The finished frame for the largest window is damn huge and will have to be glued up on the floor of the new shed, i'll also not be assembling it until the glass arrives and I can check it all fits. I must have measured/calculated the glass size a dozen times before i placed the order, it's only £280 for all the windows but on all the TV programmes the glass is the bit that always seems to be wrong!
The batten thickness was a bit of a PITA as i wanted to maximise the use of the 60mm stainless screws i got cheap on ebay, but avoid adding too much depth to the wall, in the end this meant buying a treated batten and having to thickness them down from 38mm to 30mm. My cladding design also does not have horizontal cross battens so any rain that gets through the cladding will need to be directed away from the wall, so I had to profile the top of the batten to slope away from the internal wall. Overall this meant I planed away a bunch of the tanalising, history will be the judge on my decisions.
Battens were 4.8m long and I had to angle my P/T to come in the shed door, over/through the P/T and out the window, with a few well placed timber offcuts clamped in place for in-feed and out-feed support i was amazed an how well it worked out.
Battens were added at 600mm centres and above and below all openings. The window cill will project beyond the cladding below but I'm still trying to workout how to keep the water off the top of the window frame. Although the tops are quite high and the roof overhand should keep them dry, but i'm worried about this water penetrating past the top of the window to the inside finish. The devil really is in the details!
cont next post.
I've been tending to leave the shoulder that connects to the rebate on the other frame member a touch long then pare back to fit.
All the joints are cut to a fixed internal length, to be sure to fit the glass I've ordered, the excess will either be trimmed off and pared flush or i may just leave it as the outside edges wont be seen once the window is installed and the internal finish in place.
The finished frame for the largest window is damn huge and will have to be glued up on the floor of the new shed, i'll also not be assembling it until the glass arrives and I can check it all fits. I must have measured/calculated the glass size a dozen times before i placed the order, it's only £280 for all the windows but on all the TV programmes the glass is the bit that always seems to be wrong!
The batten thickness was a bit of a PITA as i wanted to maximise the use of the 60mm stainless screws i got cheap on ebay, but avoid adding too much depth to the wall, in the end this meant buying a treated batten and having to thickness them down from 38mm to 30mm. My cladding design also does not have horizontal cross battens so any rain that gets through the cladding will need to be directed away from the wall, so I had to profile the top of the batten to slope away from the internal wall. Overall this meant I planed away a bunch of the tanalising, history will be the judge on my decisions.
Battens were 4.8m long and I had to angle my P/T to come in the shed door, over/through the P/T and out the window, with a few well placed timber offcuts clamped in place for in-feed and out-feed support i was amazed an how well it worked out.
Battens were added at 600mm centres and above and below all openings. The window cill will project beyond the cladding below but I'm still trying to workout how to keep the water off the top of the window frame. Although the tops are quite high and the roof overhand should keep them dry, but i'm worried about this water penetrating past the top of the window to the inside finish. The devil really is in the details!
cont next post.
Attachments
continued from last post.
Distraction number 1, the raised bed the wife wanted done asap so she could get the soil in it, 3 weeks later it is still empty, the boys love it as a pretend pirate ship tho!
Distraction number 2, a bug hotel made with the boys, a really fun morning, but i was amazed at how many meters of cane you need to cut up for it!
I made a 3D normal distribution of cladding after sorting it for quality, sorry engineering/data geek! Out of 140 boards I had 5 that were totally clear, 10 almost clear, 20 with a knot or two, 70ish average, and a similar distribution on the poor quality side, with potentially 5-10 boards that only small sections are usable from mainly due to sap wood.
The best stuff will be used for the front.
Cladding cut to lenght and one side planed off in the P/T to get rid of the sawn finish. More an more tools are migrating to the new shed, luckily most of them are too heavy for some scrote to carry them away at night.
Cladding goes on with a 10mm gap between the boards, these gaps will be covered with a cover board, c. 70mm wide.
With the larch boards still being a bit wet they are moving quite a lot once cut. The cover boards for the back wall were all edge straightened, cut in half to get 2x70mm covers from one 150mm board, then planed one face. As the day went on they went out of true so I was working like a banshee to get them all screwed in place before the day ended. Working by head torch by the end of the day but really starting to get an idea of how it will look.
I'll post a better update on some of the cladding details further down the line.
Fitz.
Distraction number 1, the raised bed the wife wanted done asap so she could get the soil in it, 3 weeks later it is still empty, the boys love it as a pretend pirate ship tho!
Distraction number 2, a bug hotel made with the boys, a really fun morning, but i was amazed at how many meters of cane you need to cut up for it!
I made a 3D normal distribution of cladding after sorting it for quality, sorry engineering/data geek! Out of 140 boards I had 5 that were totally clear, 10 almost clear, 20 with a knot or two, 70ish average, and a similar distribution on the poor quality side, with potentially 5-10 boards that only small sections are usable from mainly due to sap wood.
The best stuff will be used for the front.
Cladding cut to lenght and one side planed off in the P/T to get rid of the sawn finish. More an more tools are migrating to the new shed, luckily most of them are too heavy for some scrote to carry them away at night.
Cladding goes on with a 10mm gap between the boards, these gaps will be covered with a cover board, c. 70mm wide.
With the larch boards still being a bit wet they are moving quite a lot once cut. The cover boards for the back wall were all edge straightened, cut in half to get 2x70mm covers from one 150mm board, then planed one face. As the day went on they went out of true so I was working like a banshee to get them all screwed in place before the day ended. Working by head torch by the end of the day but really starting to get an idea of how it will look.
I'll post a better update on some of the cladding details further down the line.
Fitz.
Attachments
Wizard9999
Established Member
I have a feeling that cladding is going to look really nice =D>
Love the bug hotel, once made a hedgehog house with my daughter though I don't think we ever got tenants.
Terry.
Love the bug hotel, once made a hedgehog house with my daughter though I don't think we ever got tenants.
Terry.
Thought an update was in order. For the last month I have basically been planing cladding and making shavings!
All of the cladding has pilot holes drilled in it as the interweb says larch is a sod for splitting if you nail it. For the back wall I drilled the pilot holes in every board prior to putting them up, this was a pain and did not actually result in the tight screw alignment I was hoping for. It turned out easier, faster and more accurate to drill the top and bottom holes only, mount all the boards on the wall, then mark up a straight line and drill the pilot holes.
I had a vague idea about how the window and cladding interacted but i'd not got it totally sorted in my head. There were two options. Option 1 mount the front edge of the window aligned with the first layer of cladding, a cover batten will then cover the joint an prevent water intrusion.
Option 2 mount the front edge behind the first layer of cladding, cover the joint with a batten at 90° to the cladding, and a second batten on the face. This would put the window further back in the wall, improving it's protection from the elements, however it turned out my cills were not long enough for this scenario as the drip edge underneath would drip onto the top of the second layer of cladding battens. Ho hum, the devil really is in the detail!
Glass arrived and it was test fitted in the clamped frame. I've been convinced that I got a measurement wrong and the glass would not fit, and I'd have to modify the frame. It turns out my concerns were misplaced, it fitted fine. However, the glass and frame will weigh c. 60kg so havn't worked out how to fit it yet. Glaze the window then install, or install the frame, and the glaze. Either way I am going to have to get help from someone.
Frame was glued up. It's the biggest thing I've ever made so after several dry runs I wen't for it hoping I'd get it all together whilst the glue was 'open'. There's even a time-lapse video taken for posterity, and featuring a lot of my posterior, which crams the 10 mins of the glue-up into 38s. Yes I really did measure the diagonals that many times.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRP9nkrmUeo
Luckily when all was said and done it turned out straight and fit the opening in the wall. I hink next time i may leave a little more wiggle room, the window only has about 5mm all around and I had to trim the joints of flush with the frame to give it room to fit.
.. and then it was back to cladding. I made bit of a cock-up, having sorted the boards for quality i forgot my marking system and after finishing the side and back I realised i'd been using all the best boards, damn-it! This error did at least mean I stopped messing about with which board went where, well to some extent anyhow! Boards planed up and set out so I could move them around to get the best look.
First layer of cladding boards up on the front wall.
Lots and lots of shavings needing to be taken to the dump.
cont. next post.
All of the cladding has pilot holes drilled in it as the interweb says larch is a sod for splitting if you nail it. For the back wall I drilled the pilot holes in every board prior to putting them up, this was a pain and did not actually result in the tight screw alignment I was hoping for. It turned out easier, faster and more accurate to drill the top and bottom holes only, mount all the boards on the wall, then mark up a straight line and drill the pilot holes.
I had a vague idea about how the window and cladding interacted but i'd not got it totally sorted in my head. There were two options. Option 1 mount the front edge of the window aligned with the first layer of cladding, a cover batten will then cover the joint an prevent water intrusion.
Option 2 mount the front edge behind the first layer of cladding, cover the joint with a batten at 90° to the cladding, and a second batten on the face. This would put the window further back in the wall, improving it's protection from the elements, however it turned out my cills were not long enough for this scenario as the drip edge underneath would drip onto the top of the second layer of cladding battens. Ho hum, the devil really is in the detail!
Glass arrived and it was test fitted in the clamped frame. I've been convinced that I got a measurement wrong and the glass would not fit, and I'd have to modify the frame. It turns out my concerns were misplaced, it fitted fine. However, the glass and frame will weigh c. 60kg so havn't worked out how to fit it yet. Glaze the window then install, or install the frame, and the glaze. Either way I am going to have to get help from someone.
Frame was glued up. It's the biggest thing I've ever made so after several dry runs I wen't for it hoping I'd get it all together whilst the glue was 'open'. There's even a time-lapse video taken for posterity, and featuring a lot of my posterior, which crams the 10 mins of the glue-up into 38s. Yes I really did measure the diagonals that many times.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRP9nkrmUeo
Luckily when all was said and done it turned out straight and fit the opening in the wall. I hink next time i may leave a little more wiggle room, the window only has about 5mm all around and I had to trim the joints of flush with the frame to give it room to fit.
.. and then it was back to cladding. I made bit of a cock-up, having sorted the boards for quality i forgot my marking system and after finishing the side and back I realised i'd been using all the best boards, damn-it! This error did at least mean I stopped messing about with which board went where, well to some extent anyhow! Boards planed up and set out so I could move them around to get the best look.
First layer of cladding boards up on the front wall.
Lots and lots of shavings needing to be taken to the dump.
cont. next post.
Attachments
14th Nov update cont from last post.
In the evenings i've been trying to get the tall window frames finished, I'm happy with the way they are looking but realised my clamps are not long enough to pull them together. A quick post to you lovely lot and I have a solution. First frame ready for glue up, although it turns out window frames are often just screwed together, as once installed they can't really go anywhere or have any stress placed on the joints. But for me building them is as much practice making and gluing joints as anything.
Corner joint detail.
Soffit boards going. The battens that cover the gap butt up against the soffit boards. I'm installing the boards with no vents in at the moment, but once the roof is insulated I'll cut vents and install insect mesh to ventilate the space above the insulation. This will be a job for next year now though.
Throughout my build I've had the information from 'Mike's build' post in my head, however choosing vertical cladding over horizontal means I'm left to try and translate many of his pointers. One thing that I've been bothered by is the hole insect invasion issue, not sure if this is the correct answer but a mall of scrunched up insect mesh shoved into the gap at the base of each set of boards, prior to installing the cover batten, over the top was about all I could think of.
With the soffits in I could install some of the cover battens, it's really starting to get there now. Once the windows are in I can get the rest of the cover strips on. Then all i'm left to figure out is the door, but a solution to that is hatching as I type.
.
Cheers
Fitz.
In the evenings i've been trying to get the tall window frames finished, I'm happy with the way they are looking but realised my clamps are not long enough to pull them together. A quick post to you lovely lot and I have a solution. First frame ready for glue up, although it turns out window frames are often just screwed together, as once installed they can't really go anywhere or have any stress placed on the joints. But for me building them is as much practice making and gluing joints as anything.
Corner joint detail.
Soffit boards going. The battens that cover the gap butt up against the soffit boards. I'm installing the boards with no vents in at the moment, but once the roof is insulated I'll cut vents and install insect mesh to ventilate the space above the insulation. This will be a job for next year now though.
Throughout my build I've had the information from 'Mike's build' post in my head, however choosing vertical cladding over horizontal means I'm left to try and translate many of his pointers. One thing that I've been bothered by is the hole insect invasion issue, not sure if this is the correct answer but a mall of scrunched up insect mesh shoved into the gap at the base of each set of boards, prior to installing the cover batten, over the top was about all I could think of.
With the soffits in I could install some of the cover battens, it's really starting to get there now. Once the windows are in I can get the rest of the cover strips on. Then all i'm left to figure out is the door, but a solution to that is hatching as I type.
Cheers
Fitz.
Attachments
yeungster79
Established Member
I keep coming back to your build, it looks right good Fitz.
Regarding the cladding, when you cladded over the seams with the long larch cladding strips did you just screw in between the boards straight into the horizontal battens?
I will do something similar with 6'' wide weatherboards, my major concern is the amount of time my shed will be without cladding, I guess the membrane offers protection somewhat from the rain. Could also cover in poly sheets when not working on it..
Regarding the cladding, when you cladded over the seams with the long larch cladding strips did you just screw in between the boards straight into the horizontal battens?
I will do something similar with 6'' wide weatherboards, my major concern is the amount of time my shed will be without cladding, I guess the membrane offers protection somewhat from the rain. Could also cover in poly sheets when not working on it..
Internet trawling led me to the point of, boards installed heart side out (so any cupping pushes the edges of the board into the structure), single nail in each board (so the boards don't split with seasonal movement), single nail through each batten into the gap between boards into the horizontal battens (again so that no board has more than one nail across the width).
I liked the idea of the grooves in this design to prevent water ingress but in the end I didn't bother as i decided it was overkill as I had a ventilated gap behind the boards, where as this design has the boards straight onto the building membrane.
http://www.buildmagazine.org.nz/assets/ ... online.png
Regarding battening, I think the batten and cross batten would be the better design but my walls were getting too thick. So i went with just the one layer of battens, which meant I had to profile one edge of them all, another unexpected job planing an angle on lots of meters of board.
http://www.timbercladding.org/DesignCon ... Build.aspx
A couple of the other resources I bookmarked on my learning journey.
https://www.buildeazy.com/newplans/narr ... batten.gif
http://www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-instal ... -siding-3/
As you can see from the photos my shed has spent most of the time with a couple of tarps over/around it, which worked well and for £30 each have been priceless. This has however been mainly to keep water out the openings, ie door/windows. The right hand wall has been uncovered since the membrane went on. I was worried about it for a bit when the membrane was only stapled on, but once the battens went on over the membrane it's seemed pretty weather proof. Most of the membranes have a 3 month UV spec, so think should be fine uncovered for this period, so long as they are well secured to avoid the wind worrying them to failure.
F.
I liked the idea of the grooves in this design to prevent water ingress but in the end I didn't bother as i decided it was overkill as I had a ventilated gap behind the boards, where as this design has the boards straight onto the building membrane.
http://www.buildmagazine.org.nz/assets/ ... online.png
Regarding battening, I think the batten and cross batten would be the better design but my walls were getting too thick. So i went with just the one layer of battens, which meant I had to profile one edge of them all, another unexpected job planing an angle on lots of meters of board.
http://www.timbercladding.org/DesignCon ... Build.aspx
A couple of the other resources I bookmarked on my learning journey.
https://www.buildeazy.com/newplans/narr ... batten.gif
http://www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-instal ... -siding-3/
As you can see from the photos my shed has spent most of the time with a couple of tarps over/around it, which worked well and for £30 each have been priceless. This has however been mainly to keep water out the openings, ie door/windows. The right hand wall has been uncovered since the membrane went on. I was worried about it for a bit when the membrane was only stapled on, but once the battens went on over the membrane it's seemed pretty weather proof. Most of the membranes have a 3 month UV spec, so think should be fine uncovered for this period, so long as they are well secured to avoid the wind worrying them to failure.
F.
Started to glaze and install the windows, big window DGU was pretty heavy so had to jerry-rig something so I could lower the glass in without putting too much weight onto one silicone bead. For the eagle eyed, yes that is a double ended ring spanner I'm using as a lifting point, friction was very high and lifting/lowering very bumpy.
Silicone turned out to be too much for my v. cheap sealant gun, had to push the plunger manually for the last edge.
The window is fully bedded in glazing silicone, with a glazing bead made out of spare larch, held in-place with copper panel pins. I've pulled the building wrap out around the window and will secure in-place with adhesive flash-band, unfortunately I'll have to unscrew most of the cladding to give me the required access, ho-hum.
The temperature locally has been around zero for a week or so and i was worried the glue and glazing silicone will not set correctly. So i've come into the house, much to SWMBO's displeasure.
Made a clamping frame and a couple of wedge blocks to allow me to clamp the long direction on the windows.
Glue-up went well, much more pleasant inside. My stack of wood in the background waiting to be made into a workbench.
The faces on my sash clamps (Rutlands Dakota) are not perpendicular and after gluing the first window I found they had caused the side pieces on the window to be fractionally twisted, nothing that stopped the glass fitting but annoying non the less. Remedied by using an extra block to transfer the clamping force only to the tenon.
Glass fits well, about 2mm gap all round, and is light enough to lift one-handed, so glazing the smaller frames will be much easier, no jerryrigging required.
Hope to get the tall windows glazed and installed this weekend, although the wife's away so may not get too much done with the boys on my case.
F.
Silicone turned out to be too much for my v. cheap sealant gun, had to push the plunger manually for the last edge.
The window is fully bedded in glazing silicone, with a glazing bead made out of spare larch, held in-place with copper panel pins. I've pulled the building wrap out around the window and will secure in-place with adhesive flash-band, unfortunately I'll have to unscrew most of the cladding to give me the required access, ho-hum.
The temperature locally has been around zero for a week or so and i was worried the glue and glazing silicone will not set correctly. So i've come into the house, much to SWMBO's displeasure.
Made a clamping frame and a couple of wedge blocks to allow me to clamp the long direction on the windows.
Glue-up went well, much more pleasant inside. My stack of wood in the background waiting to be made into a workbench.
The faces on my sash clamps (Rutlands Dakota) are not perpendicular and after gluing the first window I found they had caused the side pieces on the window to be fractionally twisted, nothing that stopped the glass fitting but annoying non the less. Remedied by using an extra block to transfer the clamping force only to the tenon.
Glass fits well, about 2mm gap all round, and is light enough to lift one-handed, so glazing the smaller frames will be much easier, no jerryrigging required.
Hope to get the tall windows glazed and installed this weekend, although the wife's away so may not get too much done with the boys on my case.
F.
Attachments
The wife asked what had asked what I had spent/will spend, kind of in chronological order.
Foundations (B&Q)
Concrete Blocks £30
Type 1 aggregate £50
DPM £20
Structure
My timber list and prices were
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 145mm 4/ 6.0m @ £ 12.49 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 145mm 18/ 3,60m @ £ 6.55 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 145mm 20/ 3.0m @ £ 5.46 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 95mm 6/ 6.0m @ £ 8.92 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 95mm 28/ 4.80m @ £ 5.41 EACH
Battens TREATED 38 X 50mm 21/ 4.80m @ £ 2.10 EACH
18mm OSB 3 16of @ £ 12.43 EACH
11mm OSB 3 16of @ £ 8.24 EACH
Total £1050 incl delivery and VAT
Cordiners aberdeen
Roof
EPDM was £198 for 7mx4m sheet + £74 for adhesive (water-based for deck, contact for edges).
I could have gotten away with 6.5m sheet, but what I should have done was increase my overhangs by 10cm each side.
Permavent ebay/online
Walls (battens in timber order above)
Breather membrane was £45 for 1.5mx50m role (Eurovent ebay)
Cladding – 500 lin meters 150mmx20mm (nominal), @88p/m , £440 collected ex.works
Van hire an petrol to collect larch and doug fir £70
James Carr sawmill : they were great
Stainless Screws – lucked out on a box of 3000 for £40 on ebay, else I was looking at £150ish
Nails: All frame/studwork rather than screwing with a mix of 75mm (for toenails) and 100mm (when going through into the end grain). OSB nailed on with 65mm ring-shank nails. Found Toolstation to be the cheapest source of these. I must have spent £50-£75 on them, used way more than expected.
Windows - £160 for air-dried sawn doug fir, £240 for the glazing, god knows for the man-hours making them
SCOTTISH SAWMILLING SERVICES fife, and Westend Glazing aberdeen and
Incidentals
Beading for roof edges : £20
Glazing silicone / nails : £40
Glass wool insulation in floor : £30
Insect mesh : £30
Total to date £2600
Still to go and my estimates
Insulation for walls and roof (£350)
Internal lining materials (£250)
Electricity Supply (£150 cable, £20 incidentals, £200 sparky to tie in)
Electrical stuff, lights/sockets/switches (£350)
Door hinges (£50)
Possible door window (£100)
To spend £1500
Total Spend £4k ish
Gosh. Now that is 70% over my initial £2.4k estimate and £1k over where I was at in my head, hmm best not tell the wife.
Increases over original plan:
Timber +£200, 4x2 not 3x2 and forgot timber for window/door details and noggins etc.
Roof +£200, EPDM vs nail on felt (wishful/unrealistic planning )
Windows +£150, (originally was going to make from treated 4x2)
Nails and Incidentals, +£200 (totally forgot in my original plan)
Insulation +£350 (spec increase)
Internal lining. +£250 (spec increase)
Electrical stuff +£200 (originally was going to recycle stuff from old shed)
All those 'little' changes/additions soon add up!
Regards
Fitz.
Foundations (B&Q)
Concrete Blocks £30
Type 1 aggregate £50
DPM £20
Structure
My timber list and prices were
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 145mm 4/ 6.0m @ £ 12.49 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 145mm 18/ 3,60m @ £ 6.55 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 145mm 20/ 3.0m @ £ 5.46 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 95mm 6/ 6.0m @ £ 8.92 EACH
C16 reg/trtd - 45 X 95mm 28/ 4.80m @ £ 5.41 EACH
Battens TREATED 38 X 50mm 21/ 4.80m @ £ 2.10 EACH
18mm OSB 3 16of @ £ 12.43 EACH
11mm OSB 3 16of @ £ 8.24 EACH
Total £1050 incl delivery and VAT
Cordiners aberdeen
Roof
EPDM was £198 for 7mx4m sheet + £74 for adhesive (water-based for deck, contact for edges).
I could have gotten away with 6.5m sheet, but what I should have done was increase my overhangs by 10cm each side.
Permavent ebay/online
Walls (battens in timber order above)
Breather membrane was £45 for 1.5mx50m role (Eurovent ebay)
Cladding – 500 lin meters 150mmx20mm (nominal), @88p/m , £440 collected ex.works
Van hire an petrol to collect larch and doug fir £70
James Carr sawmill : they were great
Stainless Screws – lucked out on a box of 3000 for £40 on ebay, else I was looking at £150ish
Nails: All frame/studwork rather than screwing with a mix of 75mm (for toenails) and 100mm (when going through into the end grain). OSB nailed on with 65mm ring-shank nails. Found Toolstation to be the cheapest source of these. I must have spent £50-£75 on them, used way more than expected.
Windows - £160 for air-dried sawn doug fir, £240 for the glazing, god knows for the man-hours making them
SCOTTISH SAWMILLING SERVICES fife, and Westend Glazing aberdeen and
Incidentals
Beading for roof edges : £20
Glazing silicone / nails : £40
Glass wool insulation in floor : £30
Insect mesh : £30
Total to date £2600
Still to go and my estimates
Insulation for walls and roof (£350)
Internal lining materials (£250)
Electricity Supply (£150 cable, £20 incidentals, £200 sparky to tie in)
Electrical stuff, lights/sockets/switches (£350)
Door hinges (£50)
Possible door window (£100)
To spend £1500
Total Spend £4k ish
Gosh. Now that is 70% over my initial £2.4k estimate and £1k over where I was at in my head, hmm best not tell the wife.
Increases over original plan:
Timber +£200, 4x2 not 3x2 and forgot timber for window/door details and noggins etc.
Roof +£200, EPDM vs nail on felt (wishful/unrealistic planning )
Windows +£150, (originally was going to make from treated 4x2)
Nails and Incidentals, +£200 (totally forgot in my original plan)
Insulation +£350 (spec increase)
Internal lining. +£250 (spec increase)
Electrical stuff +£200 (originally was going to recycle stuff from old shed)
All those 'little' changes/additions soon add up!
Regards
Fitz.
yeungster79
Established Member
Super detailed breakdown that, nice to reference this for my build.
yeungster79
Established Member
Fitz, when you put the cladding through the P+T, would this not remove quite a bit of the pressure treatment on the outer layers? Do you have to reseal the wood somehow?
