Yes - I know the cross bracing is going in the wrong direction on the bottom door, but I didn't realise until it was too late, and having secretly nailed the t&g to the frame and cross brace I didn't feel inclined to muck it up further. I don't think it's going to move, and if it does, I'll add a cross brace in the other direction and half lap it with the existing one in the centre.
HI Roger, I am just curious as to how the windows were fitted to achieve water tightness where they butt up against the cladding. I am planning on building a a greenhouse/shed (not going to be as pro as yours ) and am trying to gather as much insight as possible. My construction will differ as the shiplap will by fixed directly to the studs as I am not sheathing it with board first.
I treated it in exactly the same way as the door. In my case, the window was screwed to the frame with the front flush with the cladding. I then attached a piece of DPC down each side, which overlaps the window frame, and another piece over the window which overlaps the DPC down the sides. This was tacked in place with a staple gun and then sealed down the side next to the window with some sealant. No need to bother with sealant above the window. The timber that frames the window externally is narrower than the DPC (150mm from memory over a 200mmDPC) and then the shiplap just butts up to it.
In your case, as there is no OSB sheathing, the window frame would be flush with the internal frame and you might want to take the shiplap right up to the edge of the DPC where it overlaps the window, and then attach the external frame over the top of the shiplap. You could always run a narrow batten/bead around end of the shiplap to cover the end grain. HTH