Will I need 2 chucks? Large and small.

[pgrbff]

I'm saving the pennies to buy tools and tooling before the lathe. I've never really been interested in getting into turning but I'd like to make some small handles for files and maybe the odd knob for furniture. I was thinking of the SC2 small chuck but wondered if I were to get a bigger chuck, would I still be able to spindle turn small diameters, say less than 20mm?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can turn small stuff on big kit but you can't turn big stuff on small kit.

 

[treeturner123]

Only 2 chucks?!!!!!

Phil

 

[Orraloon]

Look for a chuck that comes with a few sets of jaws.
VIPER2PACK Scroll Chuck Package in carry case - Kendal Tools & Machinery
That kind of thing. One chuck can be made to do a whole lot just by using other jaws.
Great as chucks are it is also worth exploring the older ways of mounting wood on a lathe. Can get the job done at times when the right jaws are not there. Generally for small spindle work it can mostly be done without a chuck. The term spindle work means its done between centers. Face plate work is for bowls and larger stuff. Chucks have mostly taken over face plate work now but its still worth getting some practice at it.
Regards
John

 

[TRITON]

I'm saving the pennies to buy tools and tooling before the lathe. I've never really been interested in getting into turning but I'd like to make some small handles for files and maybe the odd knob for furniture. I was thinking of the SC2 small chuck but wondered if I were to get a bigger chuck, would I still be able to spindle turn small diameters, say less than 20mm?

Yes is the answer to that. as with Phils point.

But i think it depends also on the size and quality of lathe you have.
I bought the RP SC2(is that the RP2000 ?) which will do little things up to medium things, but more importantly i think, it wont place any undue strain on the main bearing as my lathe is a basic Axminster affair.
Quality lathes will have quality bearings, but cheaper lathes dont, so smaller chuck is going to put less strain on it

 

[HamsterJam]

Don’t forget, you can turn a lot on a lathe between centres and personally, I would use this method rather than a chuck for items such as the file handles you mention and possibly the knobs too.
Also, while a big chuck can hold small workpieces, it will likely require a jaw change plus the larger chuck body can sometimes get in the way.

 

[Stigmorgan]

I only have 1 chuck with 1 set of 50mm jaws but can easily hold 20mm stuff by using the relief gap in the centre, it's not as good as small jaws but it's perfectly safe for small stuff you're not putting much pressure on.

 

[Vulcan]

I’ve got the Record Power SC2 and it’s a very nice little chuck. Cheap too when I bought it. I have larger chucks but I bought the SC2 because of a particular set of jaws available for it. Sadly RP don’t make many other different jaws for it though. Another option would be the Axminster SK88. It’s somewhat bigger but has a larger range of jaws for it.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

If all you are doing is turning handles and knobs, you don't need any chucks other than a jacobs chuck to hold a drill bit.
The handle can be turned between centres quite easily and the knobs could be turned in a jam chuck or jacobs chuck.

 

[graduate_owner]

My advice would be to wait until you have your lathe and see how it goes without a chuck. There are several reasons for this.
Firstly, you might not need a chuck anyway.

Secondly, if you buy a chuck now then it limits your choice of lathe to the thread on the chuck. Adapters are available and M33 is getting to be a standard now but better to get the lathe you want and get a chuck to match if you decide you need one.

Thirdly, there are plenty of good, solid lathes available especially second (etc) hand, but there are some rubbish ones too (woodzone and clones - SIP, Clarke, Lumberjack , Vevor, Einhell and loads more, all the same cr@p, just badged differently). Not all Clarke etc are cr@p, but I am thinking of one model in particular. So rather than spend money on a chuck that you might not need, put it towards a better lathe. Then you are less likely to want to buy a better lathe if you 'take to it' and want to upgrade - beware, turning can be very addictive and very expensive if you catc the bug.
Finally, after you have been turning for a while, that is the time to look at chucks, jaws etc, as you will have a clearer idea of your needs.

Regarding the lathe, as I said there are loads of options. Some are not so popular now (Tyme, Arundel, Turnstyler, Myford and others) and whilst they are good quality, the spindle threads may be difficult to match these days. Axminster do a Hobby range which are well thought of by owners, although Axminster used to describe their budget kit as suitable for about 100 hours of annual use with few, if any, periods of continuous use. That's 2 hours per week, which gives you an idea of build quality. Their Trade range are much dearer.
Second hands brands you could consider within a reasonable price range (under say £600) are Record, Union graduate, Denford Viceroy, Poolewood, probably other turners will recommend more. I have a Myford ML8 - old and limited on capacity and features, but well built and will go on and on. It is already about 70 years old. I also have a graduate - more capacity, heavier build, rock solid in use, and was the choice of the professional until recently. and I have a Viceroy, again larger capacity than the ML8, and solidly built. I have avoided recommending beasts such as Wadkin - real professional kit but again not easy to get chucks etc for these days. I recently hd the option of a Wadkin RS10, absolute beast, 7ft 6 ins between centres, total length 11 ft. I could have bought it for £500 but - what on earth would I do with it?

K

 

[graduate_owner]

My advice would be to wait until you have your lathe and see how it goes without a chuck. There are several reasons for this.
Firstly, you might not need a chuck anyway.

Secondly, if you buy a chuck now then it limits your choice of lathe to the thread on the chuck. Adapters are available and M33 is getting to be a standard now but better to get the lathe you want and get a chuck to match if you decide you need one.

Thirdly, there are plenty of good, solid lathes available especially second (etc) hand, but there are some rubbish ones too (woodzone and clones - SIP, Clarke, Lumberjack , Vevor, Einhell and loads more, all the same cr@p, just badged differently). Not all Clarke etc are cr@p, but I am thinking of one model in particular. So rather than spend money on a chuck that you might not need, put it towards a better lathe. Then you are less likely to want to buy a better lathe if you 'take to it' and want to upgrade - beware, turning can be very addictive and very expensive if you catc the bug.
Finally, after you have been turning for a while, that is the time to look at chucks, jaws etc, as you will have a clearer idea of your needs.

Regarding the lathe, as I said there are loads of options. Some are not so popular now (Tyme, Arundel, Turnstyler, Myford and others) and whilst they are good quality, the spindle threads may be difficult to match these days. Axminster do a Hobby range which are well thought of by owners, although Axminster used to describe their budget kit as suitable for about 100 hours of annual use with few, if any, periods of continuous use. That's 2 hours per week, which gives you an idea of build quality. Their Trade range are much dearer.
Second hands brands you could consider within a reasonable price range (under say £600) are Record, Union graduate, Denford Viceroy, Poolewood, probably other turners will recommend more. I have a Myford ML8 - old and limited on capacity and features, but well built and will go on and on. It is already about 70 years old. I also have a graduate - more capacity, heavier build, rock solid in use, and was the choice of the professional until recently. and I have a Viceroy, again larger capacity than the ML8, and solidly built. I have avoided recommending beasts such as Wadkin - real professional kit but again not easy to get chucks etc for these days. I recently hd the option of a Wadkin RS10, absolute beast, 7ft 6 ins between centres, total length 11 ft. I could have bought it for £500 but - what on earth would I do with it?

K

Just a few more coments - whatever lathe you get, you won't make much progress or get much satisfaction unless you have sharp turning tools. You need decent quality tools, and a means of keeping them sharp. You could start with just a few tools - roughing gouge, spindle gouge, parting tool and a skew chisel. If you plan on end grain work (as in face plate turning) then you need some scrapers. High speed steel is nice to have, but if you are buying used, then you might find carbon steel tools. All new turning tools now are HSS but don't dismiss carbon steel. It won't hold an edge as long but are perfectly serviceable. I still use my old Marples set. Don't be tempted to buy cheap tools. A nice new shiny set of 6 or 8 for £25 may be tempting, but will not be up to the job. You need to be looking at £25 or so for a new HSS skew chisel, up to about £80 for a bowl gouge. The latest 'must have' for sharpening them is a CBN wheel, they give a razor sharp edge and don't wear down like aluminium oxide etc. Also they can't disintigrate if dropped. They are expensive though, around £120. As I said , woodturning is not cheap. Obviously if all you want to do is turn a few file handles or drawer knobs then mush of this will be irrelevant, but you will still need good tools, and a sharpening system (and deep pockets). Welcome to the money pit.

K



You could do worse than buy a copy of 'Woodturning, a Foundation Course' by Keith Rowley. You can get one second hand from ebay for about £4, money well spent. There are plans for a home made rest for a bench grinder as well as the usual information on turning. And if there is a woodturning club near you, then try it out. There is often lots of help to be found there.

K

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Have a look at making your own friction drive