Paddy Roxburgh
Established Member
Be careful with the idea that PU glue is good for gap filling. Sure the foam fills the gap but not with any strength. Check out https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/gorilla_glue.html
Paddy
Paddy
Phill joiner":2enfuqrc said:It also foams up for incredible gap filling
It depends on the size of the gap. A one or two mm gap you wont pull apart. Anything bigger than that would have to be wood filled . The beauty of the foaming is that filler has something to grip to also.custard":7h08quu1 said:Phill joiner":7h08quu1 said:It also foams up for incredible gap filling
PU glues have zero gap filling properties, you can prove this for yourself very easily, let some of the foam dry out and set on a piece of scrap, then see how much strength the dried foam has. The answer is absolutely none at all!
But this idea that PU glue is gap filling, is one of those myths that refuse to die. I guess people see the foam and just assume it'll foam up in a cavity and be incredibly strong, when it's actually like asking soap bubbles to be load bearing.
Phill joiner":n5sshiw1 said:It depends on the size of the gap. A one or two mm gap you wont pull apart. Anything bigger than that would have to be wood filled . The beauty of the foaming is that filler has something to grip to also.custard":n5sshiw1 said:Phill joiner":n5sshiw1 said:It also foams up for incredible gap filling
PU glues have zero gap filling properties, you can prove this for yourself very easily, let some of the foam dry out and set on a piece of scrap, then see how much strength the dried foam has. The answer is absolutely none at all!
But this idea that PU glue is gap filling, is one of those myths that refuse to die. I guess people see the foam and just assume it'll foam up in a cavity and be incredibly strong, when it's actually like asking soap bubbles to be load bearing.
I've been using it on all my segmented bowls and it works a treat. I can have a bowl cured and ready to turn in four hours.....That's cutting all the blocks as well.
Not clear why additional hardener would be needed. Isn't the hardener already incorporated into Cascamite, and activated (or at least brought into solution where it can work) when water is added? IIRC, the old CascoPHEN used a separate hardener.phil.p":3mb9zdn4 said:Xy - the hardener for Cascamite is phosphoric acid iirc. although I tried interchanging formic and phosphoric and they both worked (obviously stress tests etc. might say differently).
dickm":3rvq8i66 said:Thanks, Phil. Must try it sometime. Just wish it was easier to get any UF adhesive up here!
dickm":2o9iip1a said:Thanks, Phil. Must try it sometime. Just wish it was easier to get any UF adhesive up here!
Enter your email address to join: