Who's going to Yandles show on the 9th & 10th of this mo

[George Foweraker]

Hi Paul.
These were made from 2 boards each 12" x 3" x 8 feet.
First i marked of the boards into one foot x one foot and cut them into squares then marked a circle with a pair of deviders.
Cut out all the circles on bandsaw and put close to lathe.
I have a 3" faceplate with 4 points on it i then trap the blank between the four points and tailstop.
Then i turned the bottom and put a dovetail on.
I did this to all 16 blanks this means i dont have to change the spiked faceplate each time.The faceplate is held in the chuck so when i finished all the bottoms i simple take the faceplate out and the chuck is ready to use.
Then i mounted each blank in the chuck by the dovetail and turned the top.
The whole exercise actualy took me less tha two and a half hours i started at 12 o clock and they were finished at 2 20 i then roughed out 9 hollow forms by 9 0 clock.
All of my life i have worked on pricework or piecework and timing myself for olmost everything i do is a habit i cannot seem to break.
I am now mostly retired so i dont know why i do it.

Regards George

 

[Paul.J]

Thanks for the explaination George

 

[George Foweraker]

Hello Paul.

If i am doing a number of the same thing i work to a system.
When i roughed out the hollow forms i did the band sawing on all of them .Then put them between centres using my spiked faceplate in the chuck.I roughed all of the outsides then drilled all of the insides.
I then swiveled the head and hollowed all of the insides with the Roly Munro.I started with 10 but went through the side of one.
I use the Roly Munro and Kelton scrapers.

Regards George

 

[cambournepete]

That's very informative George - thanks

started with 10 but went through the side of one.

Would it be wrong to say that makes me happy?
I went through the side several times on Sunday

I use the Roly Munro and Kelton scrapers.

Why both?
When do you use each?

I got an Australian Kelton look-alike from Heger at Yandles for just £5 and it seems to work pretty well even for me, except for getting the inside very smooth.
As I'm on the Rolly course this week I'm interested to see whether his tool would be anybetter for me. Even I can can get it at a discount it still wont be cheap, and I already have Sovereign and Kelton handles...
I dont see any point in spending money if I dont have to.

 

[George Foweraker]

Hi Pete.
Spend it mate you cant take it with you. :lol:

I suppose i use both because i have both although you could probably manage just as well with one.
I do find the Kelton better for getting into the shoulder.

Regards George

 

[cambournepete]

Spend it mate you cant take it with you. :lol:

Knowing me that almost inevitable...
I guess at least I'll have a sgined one

 

[Paul.J]

GF wrote

This Beech i am using now is very wet i am a little worried that it will spalt too much time will tell.

Would it be worth trying the drying in paper bags for this timber,as i believe that with it been spalted all/most of the sap has gone out the wood and as just water left. :?:
Might slow the spalting down and dry out quicker.

 

[George Foweraker]

Hi Paul.
I dont know anything about the paper bag method so info would be apreciated.

Regards george

 

[Paul.J]

Depends how far these blanks have gone i suppose George,but it just seems to me that the plastic bag will be encouraging spalting more,where as a paper bag,or paper wrapping will let the moisture escape quicker,and let the wood breath more,and slow the spalting down.
As i say i have only recently started using plastic bags for drying,and have noticed that i have been getting mold spots on some of the wood,where as the paper bags,mainly potato bags that i use the wood seems drier and no sign of mold.Just an idea

 

[George Foweraker]

Everything is worth a try.
I will get some bags and try it.

Regards George

 

[wizer]

Hence the Tvvek experiment. Which is supposed to let water out and air in, isn't it? I have some if you want George? It was given to me, so I would offer it to you on the same basis.

 

[George Foweraker]

Hello Tom.
I would be pleased to give them a go at the same time as using carrier bags.
I still have a lot of spalted Beech to rough out which would be an ideal oprtunity to experiment.

Regards George

 

[head clansman]

hi george & tom


keep us posted if you carry out this experiment , tyvex will allow the moisture out of the bag and let the timber breath & dry , as a lot of workshop get very cold and damp during most of the yr the tyvex wont allow any moisture back into the bag , it will be interesting to see your results . hc

 

[Paul.J]

Wizer wrote

Hence the Tvvek experiment

Perhaps that's why you didn't have much success Tom.
The paper will stay damp,and keep the drying process slow,whereas the Tyvek i should think will let the moisture escape too quickly and let the wood dry out too fast.
Which is why i think the plastic bag process is good,for non spalted wood, because as George says you can control the loss of moisture better.You want to release it as slow as possible.
That's the way i see it anyway :?