What improvements do you think i could make to my jig?

[Elisha Nichols]

Hi there, I'm half way through my a-level now and have completed a MDF mock up of my project. I have taken those who replied to my originals posts ideas into consideration, as well as my clients opinions too.
Here is the MDF mock up, i would appreciate your opinions and criticism on it and any improvements or changes you think i should make. Are there any materials you think this would be ideal to make in, and finally if this was a real product would you buy it?
Here is some context for those who don't know, I have made a jig that aims to make the process of cutting veneers on a band saw (on the right hand side of the table, where the miter track sits) much easier.
The jig sits in the miter track, and has a dial in the middle that allows you to cut 1mm-8mm veneers, I also have another dial that sets to 1.5mm-8.5mm, 0 is included in both. the idea is there's 2 slabs of MDF sat on top of each other, but they can slide and move back and forth, away and towards the blade.
You spin the dial round to the desired veneer thickness and then when you push your wood to the jig aligned with the blade, you bring your fence to the other side of the wood and clamp it down, then slide the top layer of the jig back so its not in the way of the blade. AS the dial doesn't change (unless you change it) you can easily slide the top layer of the jig back to the blade and set up for your next veneer.

 

[Adam W.]

What is your A level in?

 

[Elisha Nichols]

What is your A level in?

Design technology, product design.

 

[galleywood]

A video of it being used would help to understand how it works - would also help in suggesting improvements.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Hi there, I'm half way through my a-level now and have completed a MDF mock up of my project. I have taken those who replied to my originals posts ideas into consideration, as well as my clients opinions too.
Here is the MDF mock up, i would appreciate your opinions and criticism on it and any improvements or changes you think i should make. Are there any materials you think this would be ideal to make in, and finally if this was a real product would you buy it?
Here is some context for those who don't know, I have made a jig that aims to make the process of cutting veneers on a band saw (on the right hand side of the table, where the miter track sits) much easier.
The jig sits in the miter track, and has a dial in the middle that allows you to cut 1mm-8mm veneers, I also have another dial that sets to 1.5mm-8.5mm, 0 is included in both. the idea is there's 2 slabs of MDF sat on top of each other, but they can slide and move back and forth, away and towards the blade.
You spin the dial round to the desired veneer thickness and then when you push your wood to the jig aligned with the blade, you bring your fence to the other side of the wood and clamp it down, then slide the top layer of the jig back so its not in the way of the blade. AS the dial doesn't change (unless you change it) you can easily slide the top layer of the jig back to the blade and set up for your next veneer.

What keeps it parallel as you adjust the distance?

 

[Inspector]

Is the jig meant to be used with the fence? I don't like that because there is a possibility of the wood being trapped if it isn't thicknessed before being cut.
Edit. I reread you opening post and see the jig is for positioning the fence and is then pulled away.

I also see the bandsaw being a possible issue when using your jig as not every bandsaw tracks perfectly (blade drift) with the mitre slot and fence. Often it is easier to set the fence to the cutting line and clamp it to that angle which would preclude using your jig. Or are the best bandsaws reserved for Great Britain and the lesser ones sold to us in the colonies?

Personally although potentially a useful jig for those doing sawn veneer work, it wouldn't be something I would purchase.

Pete

 

[eribaMotters]

Elisha, I taught A Level PD for 8 years but I'm now out of date on the marking scheme as I retired in 2017, however:-

- Who is your potential market? You need to be very tight on this as you could produce an excellent product but not meet your brief. You could play safe and say how KS4 pupils need experience of material lamination to meet exam syllabus requirements. You jig would allow thin sections to be produced to allow curved laminations to be produced between matching male and female formers.
- Your choice of moisture resistant mdf for the the prototype is sound, the green core is the give-away. This is generally more dense than normal mdf so less resistant to wear.
-For the finished product I'd been thinking of the likes of Trespa. High-quality HPL panels | Trespa International Imagine a 15mm thick sheet made out of the same material as the top 1/2mm layer of a "Formica" kitchen surface. It is excellent for jigs and machine tables. You may well find it in the Faculty Home Ec/Food teaching rooms if they have had a refit.
It can be cut and machined more easily that metal, is dimensionally stable and slippy. It takes threads well for fixings.
- Where you have two components meeting, your dial and the table surface, I would aim for them to be the same material, so one does not wear the other.
- A positive index on the dial would be a good idea.
- I'm guessing you have access to a laser cutter in the faculty and making at least one component with the machine was an expectation for the CAD-Cam element of the marking scheme. Either the table or dial could be cut if your machine is powerful enough.
- The machine slot in the bandsaw table can have "slop". Also if you transferred the jig from one machine to another it may well not fit. You could/should consider a sub-base to allow for this. This would also allow you to allow for a blade not tracking correctly, as noted above.

The evaluation section in the marking scheme I often found misread with students failing to gain easy marks.
The faculty guideline was to advise a mini-evaluation box on every sheet, colour highlighted, to draw the examiners attention. On every sheet evaluate what you have learnt about your design, materials, construction, testing, in fact everything, including how relevant your specification was and whether it needs to be revisited.

Best of luck - Colin

 

[Elisha Nichols]

Hi there, I'm half way through my a-level now and have completed a MDF mock up of my project. I have taken those who replied to my originals posts ideas into consideration, as well as my clients opinions too.
Here is the MDF mock up, i would appreciate your opinions and criticism on it and any improvements or changes you think i should make. Are there any materials you think this would be ideal to make in, and finally if this was a real product would you buy it?
Here is some context for those who don't know, I have made a jig that aims to make the process of cutting veneers on a band saw (on the right hand side of the table, where the miter track sits) much easier.
The jig sits in the miter track, and has a dial in the middle that allows you to cut 1mm-8mm veneers, I also have another dial that sets to 1.5mm-8.5mm, 0 is included in both. the idea is there's 2 slabs of MDF sat on top of each other, but they can slide and move back and forth, away and towards the blade.
You spin the dial round to the desired veneer thickness and then when you push your wood to the jig aligned with the blade, you bring your fence to the other side of the wood and clamp it down, then slide the top layer of the jig back so its not in the way of the blade. AS the dial doesn't change (unless you change it) you can easily slide the top layer of the jig back to the blade and set up for your next veneer.

A video of it being used would help to understand how it works - would also help in suggesting improvements.

A video of it being used would help to understand how it works - would also help in suggesting improvements.

 

[Elisha Nichols]

Hi there, I'm half way through my a-level now and have completed a MDF mock up of my project. I have taken those who replied to my originals posts ideas into consideration, as well as my clients opinions too.
Here is the MDF mock up, i would appreciate your opinions and criticism on it and any improvements or changes you think i should make. Are there any materials you think this would be ideal to make in, and finally if this was a real product would you buy it?
Here is some context for those who don't know, I have made a jig that aims to make the process of cutting veneers on a band saw (on the right hand side of the table, where the miter track sits) much easier.
The jig sits in the miter track, and has a dial in the middle that allows you to cut 1mm-8mm veneers, I also have another dial that sets to 1.5mm-8.5mm, 0 is included in both. the idea is there's 2 slabs of MDF sat on top of each other, but they can slide and move back and forth, away and towards the blade.
You spin the dial round to the desired veneer thickness and then when you push your wood to the jig aligned with the blade, you bring your fence to the other side of the wood and clamp it down, then slide the top layer of the jig back so its not in the way of the blade. AS the dial doesn't change (unless you change it) you can easily slide the top layer of the jig back to the blade and set up for your next veneer.

Here’s a video to help!

 

[Elisha Nichols]

Elisha, I taught A Level PD for 8 years but I'm now out of date on the marking scheme as I retired in 2017, however:-

- Who is your potential market? You need to be very tight on this as you could produce an excellent product but not meet your brief. You could play safe and say how KS4 pupils need experience of material lamination to meet exam syllabus requirements. You jig would allow thin sections to be produced to allow curved laminations to be produced between matching male and female formers.
- Your choice of moisture resistant mdf for the the prototype is sound, the green core is the give-away. This is generally more dense than normal mdf so less resistant to wear.
-For the finished product I'd been thinking of the likes of Trespa. High-quality HPL panels | Trespa International Imagine a 15mm thick sheet made out of the same material as the top 1/2mm layer of a "Formica" kitchen surface. It is excellent for jigs and machine tables. You may well find it in the Faculty Home Ec/Food teaching rooms if they have had a refit.
It can be cut and machined more easily that metal, is dimensionally stable and slippy. It takes threads well for fixings.
- Where you have two components meeting, your dial and the table surface, I would aim for them to be the same material, so one does not wear the other.
- A positive index on the dial would be a good idea.
- I'm guessing you have access to a laser cutter in the faculty and making at least one component with the machine was an expectation for the CAD-Cam element of the marking scheme. Either the table or dial could be cut if your machine is powerful enough.
- The machine slot in the bandsaw table can have "slop". Also if you transferred the jig from one machine to another it may well not fit. You could/should consider a sub-base to allow for this. This would also allow you to allow for a blade not tracking correctly, as noted above.

The evaluation section in the marking scheme I often found misread with students failing to gain easy marks.
The faculty guideline was to advise a mini-evaluation box on every sheet, colour highlighted, to draw the examiners attention. On every sheet evaluate what you have learnt about your design, materials, construction, testing, in fact everything, including how relevant your specification was and whether it needs to be revisited.

Best of luck - Colin

Hey thank you so much for your, guidance and help; i will definitely research into the ‘Trespa pannel’, as far as my actual coursework sheets go, i have already been doing evaluations in each corner of the page in bright pink, this is due to the fact i took gcse and go to a grammar school LOL! Thank you so much for your time!

 

[Elisha Nichols]

What keeps it parallel as you adjust the distance?

It’s already parallel I believe.

 

[woodbrains]

It’s already parallel I believe.

Hello,

I think Elisha has forgotten to mention that there are slides on the top surface that runs in grooves on the bottom, which keeps everything parallel at different settings. In other words, transverse mitre slots. The jig has been set parallel to the rip fence, so if that has been adjusted for drift, then the device will also compensate for drift since it is the rip fence that is used for the cut. However, I know for a fact, the bandsaw has had all drift removed from it, and set up correctly.

Mike.

 

[hlvd]

One major flaw I see is that you always want the cut timber to be between blade and fence, which is the opposite to what you’ve got in your picture.

I suggest you redesign your jig so it works in conjunction with the fence, fitting between it and the blade. Perhaps substitute the white polygon with a levered cam enabling infinitely adjustable settings rather than in 0.5mm increments.
As veneers are rarely fitted off the saw such precision isn’t always needed, perhaps repurpose your jig into something that does, like a bandsaw tenoning jig?

 

[Elisha Nichols]

One major flaw I see is that you always want the cut timber to be between blade and fence, which is the opposite to what you’ve got in your picture.

I suggest you redesign your jig so it works in conjunction with the fence, fitting between it and the blade. Perhaps substitute the white polygon with a levered cam enabling infinitely adjustable settings rather than in 0.5mm increments.
As veneers are rarely fitted off the saw such precision isn’t always needed, perhaps repurpose your jig into something that does, like a bandsaw tenoning jig?

i don’t follow what you are saying. could you please try to explain again.

 

[hlvd]

One major flaw I see is that you always want the cut timber to be between blade and fence, which is the opposite to what you’ve got in your picture.

i don’t follow what you are saying. could you please try to explain again.

Which part would you like clarification on?

 

[woodbrains]

One major flaw I see is that you always want the cut timber to be between blade and fence, which is the opposite to what you’ve got in your picture.

I suggest you redesign your jig so it works in conjunction with the fence, fitting between it and the blade. Perhaps substitute the white polygon with a levered cam enabling infinitely adjustable settings rather than in 0.5mm increments.
As veneers are rarely fitted off the saw such precision isn’t always needed, perhaps repurpose your jig into something that does, like a bandsaw tenoning jig?

Hello,

The timber is cut in conjunction with the fence, and the jig could also easily be used to cut joinery. It measures the material on the 'off side' of the blade, so in fact automatically allows for blade kerf.

Sawn veneer in many shops is often fitted directly from the saw, and even if each leaf is thickness sanded, the closer they are to uniform thickness will save time and waste.

Mike.

 

[hlvd]

Hello,

The timber is cut in conjunction with the fence, and the jig could also easily be used to cut joinery. It measures the material on the 'off side' of the blade, so in fact automatically allows for blade kerf.

Sawn veneer in many shops is often fitted directly from the saw, and even if each leaf is thickness sanded, the closer they are to uniform thickness will save time and waste.

Mike.

Kerf is accounted for between blade and fence when used that way, same as when you set the fence on a circular saw.

I’ve never heard of sawn veneer being fitted straight from the saw, I would think it’s essential to ensure a secure adhesive bond.

 

[woodbrains]

Kerf is accounted for between blade and fence when used that way, same as when you set the fence on a circular saw.

I’ve never heard of sawn veneer being fitted straight from the saw, I would think it’s essential to ensure a secure adhesive bond.

Hello,

Kerf isn't accounted for if the thickness required is on the off side of the fence. This jig allows for the veneer to be cut to thickness (thinness?) on the offside of the fence, not between the fence and the blade.

I have cut (and indeed was taught to cut) 15-16 inch wide 3/32 thick veneers on a massive 36in Yeats American and a 30in Oliver bandsaw when I was at the College of the Redwoods. They were laid directly on the substrate. It certainly can be done, especially if the saw cuts well and the veneers are uniform thickness. Once glued down, they can be hand planed smooth and flat, as if the board was a solid wood panel. Thickness sanders were not allowed at CR but bandsaws that cut well were!

Mike.

 

[Jacob]

Surely the jig is effectively a micro adjustable fence in itself and you don't need the other fence?
If I had a good enough blade I'd simply cut veneers between fence and blade. I'd set it against gauge marks on the workpiece and not need to set it again until I wanted to change the thickness.

 

[deema]

I think it’s a neat idea, for those who didn’t read the first post fully, the jig sits in the mitre slot which she highlights, that keeps it straight and true. She also explains that you slide the jig back out of the way before making a cut, its for set up only, so nothing gets trapped when being cut.
I would make it from plastic with anodised aluminium bits where necessary. Do I think it would sell? Yes. Like every good prototype, you’ve admirable demonstrated its functionality and its utility. In all seriousness consider approaching a company such as Trend to make it with you getting a royalty for everyone they sell.