MarkDennehy":jxm2s139 said:
Had a bit of a play with the new toy:
End result is gappy as a gappy thing:
But for a first attempt at cutting dovetails, and given that the shed was a touch cold (3.8C on the thermometer) and I was having trouble feeling my fingers, I'm okay with the result
And you should be okay, gaps or no gaps that's a strong joint that will last a long, long time.
The problem is that practise might not, by itself, improve things all that much. The David Barron jigs are a great aid for accurate sawing, but they do nothing to help with the
transfer. When you mark out the pin board from the tail board the transfer marks need to still be there after you've completed the pin board cuts, otherwise you'll have a gap. I really like the David Barron jigs and would recommend them to anyone learning dovetailing, but unless you really pay attention they probably slightly hinder accurate saw placement
up to the transfer marks (but not
past them) on the pin board.
There's another (tiny) negative about them. When you use a western saw for dovetailing it's customary to make the saw cuts with the face side towards you, therefore any break out from the saw is hidden on the reverse. But using a Japanese pull stroke saw with the David Barron jig means that
some of the cuts can only be completed with the break out on the face side. You don't have the flexibility of choosing which way around to put the board in the vice. Furthermore, a Japanese saw tends to produce a little "peeling" ahead of and below the cut, this can sometimes obscure the gauge line that marks the end of the cut, making it tricky not to then cut a fraction
past that line.
As I said, I really rate these magnetic jigs to get you up and running, but once your confidence has been built I suspect you'll get even better results with a western saw used freehand.