Wax for sealing end grain

[Bodrighy]

Is there a cheap source of wax for sealing blanks etc. I can't seem to get candles cheaply round here and wondered if there was any other way short of eating 2 ton of Edam.

Pete

 

[JackL]

My local chemist sells me big bags of paraffin wax for very little money.

Into a pan (not the best saucepan !) and melt it. If I'm sealing square section for spindle turning I just dip the ends into the wax - it sets almost immediately.
For bowl blanks I just brush it on with a paint brush.

When done with the wax, it just sets in the pan and I hang mine up from a nail in the shed until I need it again.

I believe that the likes of Craft Supplies et al sell paraffin wax, but it's a lot less expensive from the local chemist.

Physiotherapists use it for hot wax treatment to arthritic hands!

 

[Bodrighy]

Thanks Jack, I'll try the chemist. I have a large meat tray that should be big enough to roll bowl blanks and dip any logs in.

Pete

 

[sawdust maker]

Hi

Like the idea of paraffin wax from the chemist. But a word of caution in heating it if its like candle wax its easy to set light to. Not sure I like the idea of heating is in a meat dish. Heated over a pan of water might be safer.

Paul

 

[duncanh]

I don't know how it compares price wise, but I use the cheapest PVA glue that I can find. It appears to work. I've also seen left over emulsion paint recommended but have never tried it.

Duncan

 

[CHJ]

.... But a word of caution in heating it if its like candle wax its easy to set light to. Not sure I like the idea of heating is in a meat dish. .....Paul

Caution yes, but as long as common sense is used and it is kept below the fuming point I have found it is fine.

Like an old fashioned chip pan etc. it is not sensible to leave it unattended on the heat source.

 

[Bodrighy]

I have a range that I can heat it on. That has a slow gentle heat and is in a safe environment if the worst happens. I understand that you need to get it to about 70o otherwise it only stays on the surface.

I have been using PVA but it has become a pain when I have a load to do as it takes so long top dry out and hets everywhere. I was using it diluted 50/50 with water.

Pete

 

[Paul.J]

We used to use a liquid wax to stop pieces been glued together when i was an apprentice.Don't know who made it.
It was in an old gallon tin.It was used cold straight from the tin.
No doubt it would be too expensive.
Think you will find the wax just as messy though.
Paul.J.

 

[Mark Hancock]

We used to use a liquid wax to stop pieces been glued together when i was an apprentice.Don't know who made it.
It was in an old gallon tin.It was used cold straight from the tin.
No doubt it would be too expensive.
Think you will find the wax just as messy though.
Paul.J.

That sound like the wax emulsion I use to use, "Mobilicer C". I think you can still get it but you have to purchase it in large quantities now.

 

[Hutzul]

I don't know how it compares price wise, but I use the cheapest PVA glue that I can find. It appears to work. I've also seen left over emulsion paint recommended but have never tried it.

Duncan

Anyone here tried old emulsion ?
I got quite a bit left in garage, but not sure how it works on wet wood, and when & if the emulsion does dry does it prevent splitting etc

I might try pva also, as I have quite a bit of that.( Cheers Duncan)

I would love to hear who has tried what as I got a lot of 'green' wood and am trying to be more cost effective in my hobby.

I have tried paraffin wax but find it messy & smelly and a fire hazard, so am looking at different ways.

Cheers guys

 

[CHJ]

My main sealer is Hot Wax, when sealing green end grain and nearly dry Blank Rounds edges.
If possible I let the green ends sit in the hot wax a few seconds to watch the water boil/steam out and this seems to draw the wax in as it cools and bonds better. I keep my eyes open for sell-off of surplus Xmas stuff etc. in the likes of IKEA. and market stalls.

Emulsion, old paint, oil or water based works fine and is easier for large branches that are awaiting storage space.

In fact I think it's the best use I've found for the last lot of water based rubbish we purchased.

You can always offer to clean out all those old half full paint tins in your friends and family sheds.

 

[mikeyew2]

I was given 10 liters of liquid floor wax by a tiler friend - meant for sealing sandstone and slate tiles.
It seems to work well on green wood and has saved some yew, laburnum and apple from more serious splits. Sets quickly and not too messy but no idea what it would cost to buy.

Mike

 

[verney]

I have been using PVA but it has become a pain when I have a load to do as it takes so long top dry out and hets everywhere. I was using it diluted 50/50 with water.

I use maybe 20% of water, just enough that it can be spread with a paint brush.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've used gloss, undercoat, primer, hammerite, pva, emulsion, candle wax - anything that came to hand. I sure as hell wouldn't buy anything specifically for that job.

 

[tekno.mage]

I use cheap PVA neat (the cheap ones are pretty runny to start with). Drying can be a problem in cold/damp weather and it is rather messy, but does appear to work.

 

[Hutzul]

My main sealer is Hot Wax, when sealing green end grain and nearly dry Blank Rounds edges.
If possible I let the green ends sit in the hot wax a few seconds to watch the water boil/steam out and this seems to draw the wax in as it cools and bonds better. I keep my eyes open for sell-off of surplus Xmas stuff etc. in the likes of IKEA. and market stalls.

Emulsion, old paint, oil or water based works fine and is easier for large branches that are awaiting storage space.

In fact I think it's the best use I've found for the last lot of water based rubbish we purchased.

You can always offer to clean out all those old half full paint tins in your friends and family sheds.

So am I right in thinking:-

If wood is green: seal the end grain
If wood is nearly dry ( I guess less than 20% moisture) then seal side grain.

Is there a golden rule to determine whether to seal end grain or side grain ?

Cheers CHJ and to all who responded

PS: Another cheap source of paint may be your local tip. At mine, all the paint cans are in a container and free to all who want it. Gallons for free.

 

[chipmunk]

I've not heard of anyone just sealing side-grain and I don't really see the point. I always seal the end grain, even on relatively dry wood, since it helps stop shakes which can occur even from say 15% to 10%.

I use cheap D3 PVA wood glue which Toolstation sell at £4 per litre or £12 for 5 litres postage free. I use it on the outside of rough turned bowls too because it's quick and sufficiently viscous to stay in-place.

The molten wax route is probably very good for large quantities.

HTH
Jon

 

[CHJ]

...So am I right in thinking:-

If wood is green: seal the end grain

Yes and as quickly as possible after cutting, preferably minutes.

...If wood is nearly dry ( I guess less than 20% moisture) then seal side grain.

No, rarely is it necessary or desirable to seal side grain. *

...Is there a golden rule to determine whether to seal end grain or side grain ?

On normal split or cut logs do not seal side grain, only the ends.

Only reason for sealing all round a cut circular blank is that it is essential to get all the end grain and the small amount of side grain on the edges that gets covered is of little consequence against the risk of not getting the side grain.

Do not wax the side grain on the faces of the cut round blank.

* The only time a cut blank is covered completely is in the case of green woods such as Olive and Eucalyptus burrs etc. which carry a lot of moisture and need to be forcefully restricted from loosing it too quickly.

Have a good look around a turning blank sales rack and the 'norm' for safe drying and storing will be obvious.

 

[Hutzul]

...So am I right in thinking:-

If wood is green: seal the end grain

Yes and as quickly as possible after cutting, preferably minutes.

...If wood is nearly dry ( I guess less than 20% moisture) then seal side grain.

No, rarely is it necessary or desirable to seal side grain. *

...Is there a golden rule to determine whether to seal end grain or side grain ?

On normal split or cut logs do not seal side grain, only the ends.

Only reason for sealing all round a cut circular blank is that it is essential to get all the end grain and the small amount of side grain on the edges that gets covered is of little consequence against the risk of not getting the side grain.

Do not wax the side grain on the faces of the cut round blank.

* The only time a cut blank is covered completely is in the case of green woods such as Olive and Eucalyptus burrs etc. which carry a lot of moisture and need to be forcefully restricted from loosing it too quickly.

Have a good look around a turning blank sales rack and the 'norm' for safe drying and storing will be obvious.

Starting to understand it better now, thanks Chas