Post a photo of the last thing you turned

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Never turned elder so am curious as to your opinion whether the bark is any good for natural edge bowl or it to weak and flimsy when it dries out
Having just cut up an Alder that came down in the storm also I'd say it looks very much like Ash, it turns pink when cut (if fresh/green) the bark is fairly similar too so I imagine it will cut on the lathe in a similar way.
 
Last one for the year. Still got to ĺaquer it touch and go whether l would finish it in time. For a friend who's into star trek say hello to USS Louf.
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merry Christmas one and all, till next year.
 
From those of us that 'salvage' their wood I thought I would make a few posts on how I turn a tree trunk into a bowl. Although not technically difficult there are a few things you need to bear in mind. First of all there is no set way of doing this, so this is just my way. Besides being cheaper/free to 'salvage' your wood, the whole process can be enormously satisfying.

So this first post is simply about preparing that tree-trunk for the lathe. Yesterday I acquired a 2 foot piece of Alder that had come down in Storm Darrigh. The trunk was covered in Ivy, which happens a lot to the trees where I live. Alder is great to turn, but rots and Spalt's quite quickly. I retrieved the trunk section using my wheel barrow. The first thing to say about handling a trunk of this size (50-60Kg) is to be careful, Hernia's can be very painful, and I should know. You will also need a chainsaw, of some kind. If you've never used a chainsaw and lack confidence in using the tool, then seek help and assistance from somebody who knows what they are doing. Chainsaws, can be very unforgiving and it won't just be your little 'pinky' that you lose!

One of the first tasks after examining the trunk is to check either end for rot/inclusions/existing cracks.. Basically, you are aiming to cut the trunk length-ways through the centre of the Pith. Some people advocate removing a thin slab of the pith, due to the likelihood of radial cracks developing. I cut through the pith, knowing that I can turn the Pith out, once the piece is on the lathe. So as in the two photos above we will get two semi-circle slabs of wood. But before we make that first cut we need to check either end for cracks. On my piece of Alder I could see two incipient cracks, roughly traveling in the same direction. So I used a steel rule and sharpie to mark a line through the trunk linking both with a line 'scored' over the bark. This line would mark the direction of the Chainsaw cut. Ensuring, that the line through pith on either is placed in the vertical position, cut through the trunk, alternating at either ends trying to stay as close as possible to your vertical end line markers. Hopefully, you will end up with two semi-circular slabs, unlike me (see photo) .

The "Big Reveal" will indicate the condition of the wood. In my piece of Alder you can see a significant inclusion that can be easily avoided. My intention is to get a single simple bowl from either piece, but of course you could make smaller bowls if you wanted to. After marking out the bowl circumference, it's important to trim the piece as close as possible to the circumference line, in preparation to mount the piece on the lathe.

Which I will cover next...
Sorry never turned Elder. However, most of the Alder i've turned is usually covered by a thick coat of Ivy. The bark is generally friable, so to get a decent 'live edge' you probably some fixing agent/glue to keep the bark in place.
 
Re selvage wood.
My last post before bed, here is two items from salvaged wood and one from bought wood.
That’s me for now all the prep I can do is done, have a happy Christmas everybody
Katomi signing off
 
In continuation of my earlier post re: how I process a recently felled section of Alder trunk into a bowl, for those who have never done this before....

Ok we have roughly rounded the piece and we must now safely mount and secure this to our lathe. From the first photo we have a number of options, depending what tooling you have available. As you can see I have a range of face-plates, Ring face-plate and a couple of Screw-Chucks. Some Turners will use screw chucks (probably larger than the ones on show), but I typically will use a small (70mm dia) face plate, with holes for 6 screws.

If you have already drawn an outline circle on the piece, then you hopefully you will have marked out the centre. You should then , with a small( 3mm) drill bit drill a small pilot hole to permanently mark the centre spot. The reason for this is that in bi-secting the trunk length ways the wood around the centre spot may be uneven. If you are using a face-plate it is essential there is no 'wobble' between the centre spot and the face plate. So either plane or chisel the faceplate area as flat as possible. The flatter the better to ensure both surfaces mate.

This particular piece of Alder, is full of water (32 - 34%) and weighs in at 18 - 20kg, so we don't want it coming off, at any RPM!!

Once you are happy with the mating of the faceplate and wood, drill your screw holes and attach the faceplate. We can now mount the piece on the lathe. With the faceplate screwed into the Headstock spindle, bring up the Tailstock live centre to provide additional support and security to the piece.

Ok thats it for the moment............... because I am doing this in 'real-time', you will have to forgive the piece-meal approach to posting. Its' Christmas morning so I have about a thousand other things to do, and SHE must be obeyed!! LOL Merry Christmas!
 

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In continuation of my earlier post re: how I process a recently felled section of Alder trunk into a bowl, for those who have never done this before....

Ok we have roughly rounded the piece and we must now safely mount and secure this to our lathe. From the first photo we have a number of options, depending what tooling you have available. As you can see I have a range of face-plates, Ring face-plate and a couple of Screw-Chucks. Some Turners will use screw chucks (probably larger than the ones on show), but I typically will use a small (70mm dia) face plate, with holes for 6 screws.

If you have already drawn an outline circle on the piece, then you hopefully you will have marked out the centre. You should then , with a small( 3mm) drill bit drill a small pilot hole to permanently mark the centre spot. The reason for this is that in bi-secting the trunk length ways the wood around the centre spot may be uneven. If you are using a face-plate it is essential there is no 'wobble' between the centre spot and the face plate. So either plane or chisel the faceplate area as flat as possible. The flatter the better to ensure both surfaces mate.

This particular piece of Alder, is full of water (32 - 34%) and weighs in at 18 - 20kg, so we don't want it coming off, at any RPM!!

Once you are happy with the mating of the faceplate and wood, drill your screw holes and attach the faceplate. We can now mount the piece on the lathe. With the faceplate screwed into the Headstock spindle, bring up the Tailstock live centre to provide additional support and security to the piece.

Ok thats it for the moment............... because I am doing this in 'real-time', you will have to forgive the piece-meal approach to posting. Its' Christmas morning so I have about a thousand other things to do, and SHE must be obeyed!! LOL Merry Christmas!
Worth mentioning that when using a faceplate the screws should ideally be long enough to have 7 threads in the wood.
 

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