Total beginner just bought an old Arundel J4 I think Junior as its 55 inch long-some help please!

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I have just loosened it! Miixture of one screw and one bolt and the extra leverage!

I also added a photo of my 'bolt a drill in a headstock' lathe which I have had for at least 15 years and never used until last week and my first and only bit of turning so far- how a little piece of wood taken from square to round can be as pleasing to me as this is ridiculous but I made a 'thing'- I was using some Silverline wood carving chisels(quite blunt even though brand new unused Chirstmas present from my wife a couple of years ago) and I very gingerley started wondering if a piece of wood would fly off in my face-found out the drill was on 'hammer' not 'drill' so took it out and pressed for drill action put it back and I could not get anywhere with it and realised when I was trying to put into drill from hammer when the drill was inverted I had put the drill in reverse!! Changed and then I was removing wood!
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I guess if you run it in reverse, it puts wood back on?
 
Now I have the faceplate loosened I believe a clean up of the thread and then a fibrous washer and or plastic should help when trying to remove it in the future?

So if my wood is large enough can I just use the faceplate with a a couple of screw going through the faceplate and into the wood instaed of a chuck?

Once I have turned the main body can I then retreat the tailstock and using a jacobs chuch drill the centre? Will the piece be stable enough unsupported at one end?

John your comment about putting the drill in reverse-yes that would be good if it put wood back on!! Save making mistakes!

I watched one you tube video which showed when turning a sloping inward area that to obtain a smooth as possibly cut you go into the left hand side from the left and then the right hand in from the right is this correct?

many thanks

Peter
 
Now I have the faceplate loosened I believe a clean up of the thread and then a fibrous washer and or plastic should help when trying to remove it in the future?

So if my wood is large enough can I just use the faceplate with a a couple of screw going through the faceplate and into the wood instaed of a chuck?

Once I have turned the main body can I then retreat the tailstock and using a jacobs chuch drill the centre? Will the piece be stable enough unsupported at one end?

John your comment about putting the drill in reverse-yes that would be good if it put wood back on!! Save making mistakes!

I watched one you tube video which showed when turning a sloping inward area that to obtain a smooth as possibly cut you go into the left hand side from the left and then the right hand in from the right is this correct?

many thanks

Peter
You may also have a "screw chuck"(I think it's called that) like a small faceplate with a hole in the centre for a woodscrew.
Probably not so good for a big lump of wood
 
was using some Silverline wood carving chisels(quite blunt even though brand new unused Chirstmas present from my wife a couple of years ago)
It's a common misconception to think brand new chisels are sharp. They never are, and always need sharpening before use.
 
Hi Phil book ordered earlier with some centres!

Looking at the faceplate it has in effect 2 shoulders-one that meets at the end of the thread and then a larger shoulder that meets with the spindle - fibrous washer fits larger one but not got one suited to the smaller 'thread' shoulder! Do I need on both?
 
Hi Phil book ordered earlier with some centres!

Looking at the faceplate it has in effect 2 shoulders-one that meets at the end of the thread and then a larger shoulder that meets with the spindle - fibrous washer fits larger one but not got one suited to the smaller 'thread' shoulder! Do I need on both?
One washer. The plate should screw back to fit tight against the shoulder. It is possible to have the wrong plate which won't do this due to the way it's been machined i.e. it needs a plain bore for a few mm before the thread starts.
 
The original 'brochure' has spindle nose register diameter which is right on the fold! I think it is 7/8 ths? As the oother one is 5/8ths.

Then it has 'spindle nose screwed .825 14 tpi

Can you obtain screw on pronged drive centres or do I just use an MT1 type?
 

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Hi John, no i do not have a screw plate just the lathe as in the photos with inner and outer faceplates and 6 chisels!

Phil yes the faceplate screws tight to the main shoulder of the spindle. I have a fibrous washer for this should I oil the washer or leave as is?
 
Get some woodturning tools; woodcarving tools are not designed for turning and can be dangerous.
As a minimum, you need a face mask and visor to protect you from harm - particularly as you are starting out and likely to make mistakes.
Read the book, and join a woodturning club if there's one near to you, or a Men's Shed may be helpful if they have a lathe.
Duncan
 
Hi Duncan these are the chisels I received with the lathe bit rusty (the wood carving ones were all I had on my test and used low speeds and even stood to one side just in case! ) I also have a rudimentary visor!

I am quite risk averse if I can help it!
 

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Hi Duncan these are the chisels I received with the lathe bit rusty (the wood carving ones were all I had on my test and used low speeds and even stood to one side just in case! ) I also have a rudimentary visor!

I am quite risk averse if I can help it!
Yup, they'll do for starters.
Duncan
 
The inboard faceplate will definitely have a right hand thread and will unscrew counter-clockwise.
Are there flats on the centre boss of the faceplate to use a spanner on to unscrew it?
There may be some way of locking the spindle where the pulleys are so look at the spindle inside the case.
The best way to free the thread once you have a secure grip on it and the spindle is locked is to give the spanner/lever/tommy bar a tap with a suitably heavy hammer.
 
The inboard faceplate will definitely have a right hand thread and will unscrew counter-clockwise.
Are there flats on the centre boss of the faceplate to use a spanner on to unscrew it?
Not on the J4
There may be some way of locking the spindle where the pulleys are so look at the spindle inside the case.
There is not, except for two little holes in the spindle to fit the right sized chuck wrench thingy (see above)
The best way to free the thread once you have a secure grip on it and the spindle is locked is to give the spanner/lever/tommy bar a tap with a suitably heavy hammer.
Not possible with the J4 and others. More or less the only way is to work one face plate against the other, opposite threaded, which @PTomo seems to have discovered already!
 
Hi all many thanks for all your helpful input/ideas/assistance.

I bought some centres as per photo and Amazon special which were £22 I think-the 3 on the left are dead and the one on the right is a live centre. All MT1.

There are many sellers all seemingly selling the same wood boxed centres and mixed reviews but some good and they appear sturdy enough! £1 coin for scale.

So as my tailstock centre is dead on the lathe in theory can I use the live centre on the tailstock and the pronged drive centre on the headstock?

So do you just push these into headstock spindle and tailstock and then rely on screwing up tailstock once in position to seat them?

Phil/John book ordered at same time but not due to be delivered until 12th Aug!

many thanks

Peter
 

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