wadkin MJ restoration

[Tony Spear]

Bit of a set back today. I put some oil in the gearbox last night and this morning there was a nice puddle. It seems to be leaking from the main input shaft, the one that holds the pulley. The shaft goes through a brass sleeve with what I think are grease groves? I was thinking of maybe trying to put an O ring in the groove to act as an oil seal. Anyone any ideas?

Although unlikely, is it possible that it's a labyrinth seal?

http://www.parker.com/literature/Engine ... s/5350.pdf

Or alternitatively, maybe you've just over-filled the gearbox. I once had an elderly "Panther" motorbike, which had what's known as a "wet sump" i.e. the flywheel was running in an oil bath so that everything was lubricated by the action of the flywheel chucking the oil about and whenever the oil was topped up it leaked like bu***ry until the oil level dropped to what it should have been to start with!

 

[wallace]

I disassembled the gearbox and noticed the shaft has noticeable play between the shaft and brass sleeve. The gearbox has a filler cap which acts as a level as well.

 

[dickm]

On old Villiers 2-stroke engines, the crankcase seal was supposed to be provided by a brass bush which also acted as a bearing. Worked quite well as a bearing, but as soon as it got a bit of wear, didn't act as a seal! There was just enough "meat" on the crankcase to machine out a space for a modern type of oil seal. Probably not possible to machine out in your case, but maybe you could fix some sort of holder for a seal on the outside? Wouldn't be original, but would probably work

 

[wallace]

I had a go at welding the broken casting. If there are any welders out there please excuse my attempts. These are the bits to be welded unfortunately a piece got lost when the planer fell off the pallets.



I clamped the bits together whilst I tacked it.



I then V'd the crack out a bit and heated it up with a blow torch



This is the result, not very pretty but hopefully it will hold. I put it in a pre heated oven and gradually decreased the temperature

 

[No skills]

Did it make much noise as it was cooling?

Was told that the clinking noise when cast iron cools (after welding) is stress fracturing happening inside the weld. I don't know if that's true or accurate - just something an old welder told me once.

 

[wallace]

When I did the tack welds you could here a clinking noise. But when I did the main weld because it was preheated there was no noise. I think the hotter you get the cast the better the result.

 

[No skills]

Oh good, should be a good weld then.

 

[custard]

Wallace, you're just unstoppable, a woodworking force of nature!

 

[Dangermouse]

The best way to weld cast is to get it red hot, weld it , peen the weld to relive the stress, then put it in hot sand to cool down VERY slowly. You were very lucky to not have it re-crack after you welded it. What welding material did you use, nickel rods and arc welding is needed for the best weld.

 

[wallace]

I only have a mig and used steel flux cored wire with CO2 gas. I might see if I can find an arc welder sometime

 

[Dangermouse]

Any arc welder will do, even a hobby one and is definitely the best way to weld cast.

 

[wallace]

What do the different amperages mean when buying an arc welder? Is it to do with penetration of the piece being welded i.e you need more amps for thicker stuff.

The motor was also injured in the fall so needed welding



The bearings were in good condition. one end was ball and the other brass caged needle roller. The bearing caps got a bit bling

 

[Dangermouse]

hi Wallace
yes that's it, the higher the amps the thicker the metal you can weld, for your type of work 80 to 110 amp is plenty

 

[dickm]

Agree that almost any arc welder "will do", but for someone like the OP, who clearly loves old metal, a proper oil cooled machine would be more satisfying!
The upsurge in Migs seems to have hit the SH market for arc, and oil-cooled Oxfords etc. can be picked up pretty cheaply.

 

[wallace]

Thanks for the advice. I had a go at removing the stud from the head. I tried a stud extractor which broke then I filed the studs sides to fit a spanner which duly snapped the stud leaving the threads in the hole. I then went to a local fabricators who had oxy because I was just using a blow torch. He heated things up and welded a bar on the stud which just snapped. I then went back home and drilled the stud again thinking the heat might of cracked it, another stud extractor broke so I had to drill that out. I thought I might be able to drill somewhere near the threads and collapse the stud. So I now have a stuck stud with a 11mm hole in it. Should I just re-tap it? Any thoughts ?

 

[Dangermouse]

Drill the stud out. leaving a mill, then clean the hole out with the correct tap.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

There's an old method of stud removal, if you're really stuck. Obtain a cold chisel of slightly smaller diameter than the hole. Grind a flat on opposite sides of the business end until you have a sort of 'blade' about 3/16" to 1/4" thick, and a bit longer than the stud-hole is deep (go carefully so as not to draw the temper). Round off one edge of this blade so it's a U shape in cross-section. Grind the end off so that it makes a cutting edge at the base of the U; something like about 75 to 80 degrees is about right for the cutting angle. Drill out as much of the stud as you can, then using the chisel, chip a groove down the inside of the drilled stud - take several shallow passes, deepening the groove a bit at a time. Once you reach the tips of the threads, the stud may collapse - if it doesn't, chip a second groove at 180 degrees to the first. When the stud collapses, fish the bits out with a bit of bent wire or a stick with a smear of grease on it, and run a tap down the hole to clean up any damage to the hole's threads.

 

[wallace]

Thanks for the advice. I tried to remove the stud for a good while, but it was starting to iss me off so I went and did something else. Heres the motor all cleaned out of saw dust regreased and painted. Runs pretty sweet.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtNFqkRb ... e=youtu.be

I need to find a spot to place this thing but I don't have a lot of room left. My workshop is only 5m by 5m. I really should get rid of the J Sutcliffe p/t only problem is I really like it. How do you fit 10 machines in a small shed. I am definitely not getting any more machines, except the one that's coming tomorrow

 

[The Bear]

excellent So what's coming tomorrow?

Mark

 

[wallace]

Its some kind of foot operated chop saw. It was cheap so could not help myself.