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Thanks , i think that is what felder are offering me for £20 . The spring and upright bar .
 
have to say jason am beginning to think this is all a ploy, and what you actually have bought is an anti theft device :twisted:

after you're break in and fire last year, seems to me this is the ideal piece of equipment to scare them even more than last time :lol: :lol:

can't wait to see it working

paul :wink:
 
JFC":f01g75my said:
Thanks , i think that is what felder are offering me for £20 . The spring and upright bar .

I thought that was the case and not the pressure wheel. if you can make one or get hold of one it makes things so much easier and you'll have much better results.
 
I thought that when trying a crown moulding , the limiters i spose where trying to move the work away . Not a kick but i could feel it . It was fine just cleaning up rebates where i had taken most of the material away on the table saw .
 
JFC":33x5jxrq said:
I thought that when trying a crown moulding , the limiters i spose where trying to move the work away . Not a kick but i could feel it . It was fine just cleaning up rebates where i had taken most of the material away on the table saw .
If you can feel the limiters trying to lift the work away possibly either you're overfeeding or you need to raise the rotation speed of the cutter block. Your spindle moulder (the RS) has two speeds, 4500 and 7000 rpm, what diameter block were you running and at what speed. Unlike a router table feeds and speeds are much more important on a spindle. Incidentally you'll feel the "push-off" if the cutters aren't sharp or the limiters are too large as well

Scrit
 
Thanks Dom :D I've got to nip down to a boat yard today so i will try there first but thanks for the kind offer . Scrit , the cutters have had very little use so i think i can say they are sharp but ill check that . I think it was more to do with my feed method and not wanting my hands anywhere near the block :shock:
It was running at "the belt came off and i put it back on RPM" :?
 
JFC":996yy1io said:
It was running at "the belt came off and i put it back on RPM" :?
Big motor pulley/small spindle pulley = 7000 rpm, small motor pulley/big spindle pulley = 4500 rpm on your machine. With a 100mm diameter block you should be running at the higher speed

Scrit
 
Hmmmmmmm I've just try to run it at 7000RPM and the belt keeps falling off :x Should there be a lip on the bottom of the spindle housing to stop it falling off ?
 
No. To the left of the motor, near the top of the opening is a knurled knob - this adjusts the motor towards and away from the spindle to tighten the belt. If the belt cannot be tightenen any more (because the motor is fouling on the frame of the machine) then it's stretched - time for a new belt. As a short term solution you could also try either rosin (know anyone who plays the fiddle? They use it on the bow strings apparently) or a belt dressing spray such as that made by Rocol (try engineer's merchants)

Scrit
 
I cant see anything like you describe :oops: Im wondering if its had its motor changed .
This is the only thing i can see in there .
DSC00059.jpg

The motor
DSC00060.jpg

What i thought you where describing as a greasing point with a grease nipple below it . It doesnt turn very far .
DSC00058.jpg
 
JFC":2gf8v9vs said:
I cant see anything like you describe :oops: Im wondering if its had its motor changed .
That's a replacement motor, but it will still be mounted on some kind of pivot. If Brad will give me permission, I'll post a photo of the innards of his tomorrow.

JFC":2gf8v9vs said:
What I thought you where describing as a greasing point with a grease nipple below it . It doesnt turn very far.
.
DSC00058.jpg

The upper one is a Stauffer cup and the lower a grease nipple. Originally it would have had two Stauffer cups (one per roller bearing set). Unscrew the cup, pack with acid-free grease then replace - it won't screw on too far before you feel resistance. Give it 1/2 to 1 turn every day before using the machine. BTW you can still get Stauffer cups from some engineers merchants - yours will be a Whitworth thread.

Scrit
 
So the EBay description of it as 30 years old was the motor i assume .
I cant see anything that will move the motor other than undoing the motor housing bolts and pushing it over by hand but i also didnt see anything to say that would work either .
 
JFC":oihe5aht said:
I cant see anything that will move the motor other than undoing the motor housing bolts and pushing it over by hand but i also didnt see anything to say that would work either .

What are the threaded rods in the first picture?
 
JFC":6x1whs28 said:
So the EBay description of it as 30 years old was the motor i assume.
The plastic top on the motor shouts 1980s or later to me, but could be late 1970s at a pinch I suppose. Prior to then even Italian alloy motors all seemed to have metal fan covers at the top. I just think they got their dating wrong. The machine was certainly made between circa 1947 (well, that's the earliest documented evidence I can find) and 1957 when the front plate became Wadkin-Bursgreen. The nice thing about these roller bearing spindles is they are very simple, repairable and have little to go wrong.

Jake":6x1whs28 said:
What are the threaded rods in the first picture?
They come in from the end of the machine. The larger is the rise and fall drive, connected to a handle at the RH side of the machine. I think the smaller one is the rise and fall lock. Can you confirm, Jason?

Scrit
 
Top one is the rise and fall of the spindle that the cutter block sits on and the bottom one is to lock it off .
 

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