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We put the opening in the prototype to the rear - that's the normal position. Put it at the right and it will probably get in the way of the adjusters, etc. I'll have a think about it, though. What is certain, though, its that it does need extraction - generates a tad more waste than a 1in tall router cutter
Scrit
Scrit
OPJ
Established Member
At one place I worked, my boss was using a Scheppach Spindle Moulder and, I don't know, maybe it wasn't quite set up right. He switched it on, started feeding the timber through (22mm thick, only for a chamfer) and somehow the feed roller got dragged along with it and one of the wheels was destroyed before he had time to switch it off! :shock:
His hands were fine though,
And where I work now, our foreman (believe it or not!) was trimming a shaped piece of redwood, 3" thick, somehow managing to just nick his finger on the spinning cutter! He survived though. Lost a bit of blood and barely a millimeter of his index finger with half the finger nail destroyed. Three weeks off work. Although, he managed to get blood poisoning from it and spend most of that time on the drip. :shock:
One of his aims this year is to get me on the damned thing. I've also been told they don't like knots... I've heard stories of lengths of skirting being sent SMACK in to a wall at the end of a 'shop! :?
His hands were fine though,
And where I work now, our foreman (believe it or not!) was trimming a shaped piece of redwood, 3" thick, somehow managing to just nick his finger on the spinning cutter! He survived though. Lost a bit of blood and barely a millimeter of his index finger with half the finger nail destroyed. Three weeks off work. Although, he managed to get blood poisoning from it and spend most of that time on the drip. :shock:
One of his aims this year is to get me on the damned thing. I've also been told they don't like knots... I've heard stories of lengths of skirting being sent SMACK in to a wall at the end of a 'shop! :?
Hi Olly
Spindle moulders are nowhere near as fearsome as they used to be, especially with modern (i.e. trade legal) tooling.
The worst thing is to use a machine you are scared of, distrust or which you don't understand. If you want a primer on using the spindle moulder safely take a look here and print it out. Once you've ignored the first couple of "blood and gore" paragraphs (only joking) the rest of the advice really is good.
Scrit
Spindle moulders are nowhere near as fearsome as they used to be, especially with modern (i.e. trade legal) tooling.
And I'll put odds on it that he was working without any Shaw guards on the machine. If you guard the cutter adequately this sort of thing rarely happens.OPJ":2ipdzl23 said:
Material can sometimes get ejected if you hit a knot - a good reason to use a full sprung Shaw guard set and push sticks - and also to stand to one side when feeding through. Power feeding is always the safest option, though, especially for long/heavy pieces and the surface quality will be better with power feeding because the feed is consistent.OPJ":2ipdzl23 said:
The worst thing is to use a machine you are scared of, distrust or which you don't understand. If you want a primer on using the spindle moulder safely take a look here and print it out. Once you've ignored the first couple of "blood and gore" paragraphs (only joking) the rest of the advice really is good.
Scrit
I will agree with Scrit here , the worst thing you can do is use a machine you are scared of . The first time i turned my spindle moulder on it scared me but i have used bigger machines before and i knew this would be the case as it was a new machine to me . As i said before i like to know the sound of a machine i also like to look over every part of it before i use it . I find switching the machine on and listening to it for a while , then standing next to it is a good way of knowing what it does .
Respecting a machine is a good thing , being scared of it is dangerous .
Respecting a machine is a good thing , being scared of it is dangerous .
A
Anonymous
Guest
Dear oh dear, I can just imagine Scrit and Brad in the workshop, sort of a cross between "last of the summer wine and "grumpy old men" :lol:
A
Anonymous
Guest
senior":1vyb2jqi said:
You may laugh...
...We're coming down to see you next week! :wink:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Oh i've definately become a grumpy old man before my due time :lol:
I need to mould some glazing beads around 15mm x 9 mm and i don't think the gaurd i was so kindly given will be good for this . I was thinking of making up a small L section to attach to the fence and i could run the timber through this . Good idea or not ? Its still running at 4500 RPM :?
engineer one
Established Member
surely the prescribed way to do this is to mould it on the end of a solid plank, and then cut the sections off. this would be much safer and more accurate i think.
paul :wink:
paul :wink:
Paul has is spot on. Mould the beads on a wider plank (preferably at 7,000 rpm with a small diameter block - how come you still can't change speed?) then part off by ripping on the tablesaw. The smallest you can normally work on a spindle moulder is somewhat larger that that you would work on a router table. Work too small a piece and the cutter will smash the material into pieces.
Scrit
Scrit
I still cant find how to change the speed , there seems to be a spring behind the bolt i showed in the pic . So maybe i need to loosen of the nut below it and it will move the motor ? Re the glazing bead , of course .
mahking51
Established Member
Hi Scrit, did you get my PM?
Regards,
Martin
Regards,
Martin
Found it !!!!!!
I had to take photo's to see what was going on round there . A right pain to get to .
There doesn't seem to be any marks as to where the speeds are , do i just turn it until the belt is tight ?
I had to take photo's to see what was going on round there . A right pain to get to .
There doesn't seem to be any marks as to where the speeds are , do i just turn it until the belt is tight ?
Hi Jason
If you look at Brad's machine there is a knob acting on a threaded rod and the knob is turned to adjust the motor foot outwards (i.e. towards the rear of the machine) in order to tension the belt after you have changed speeds. On his machine the motor foot is bolted onto a plate or casting which pivots on the right hand side in the vertical plane. On your machine the motor appears not to be properly bolted onto that plate and the spring is presumably intended to give the required amount of tension as opposed to having the screw adjuster (possibly they couln't accommodate it when the new motor was fitted). Sounds like the spring isn't man enough for the job at 7,000 rpm. I also reckon that your motor needs bolting onto that plate properly.
Scrit
If you look at Brad's machine there is a knob acting on a threaded rod and the knob is turned to adjust the motor foot outwards (i.e. towards the rear of the machine) in order to tension the belt after you have changed speeds. On his machine the motor foot is bolted onto a plate or casting which pivots on the right hand side in the vertical plane. On your machine the motor appears not to be properly bolted onto that plate and the spring is presumably intended to give the required amount of tension as opposed to having the screw adjuster (possibly they couln't accommodate it when the new motor was fitted). Sounds like the spring isn't man enough for the job at 7,000 rpm. I also reckon that your motor needs bolting onto that plate properly.
Scrit
Scrit , there are two bolts on the other side and one below the adjuster shown in the pic . As i can only get a small turn on the nut shown i'm not sure if it moves the motor (as i pulled it round by hand) Or if it locks off the spring . I will look again tomorrow and start her up :twisted:
