Turning a wine "glass".....help!!!

[CHJ]

...It doesn't look very flexible for mounting other stuff on it.....the cone is fixed.

Might I respectfully suggest that when you ask for advise you take note of that given, variations of revolving centre adaptors and extensions are a regular occurrence to a regular turner.
Spend a little more time researching the solution offered rather than challenging the advise.

The method of locating them depends upon the manufacture of the particular centre, some have a hollow core to allow boring through the tail stock and fitting of numerous alternate patterns of pointed centres, others are just fixed size solid centres.

None are difficult to adapt with a quickly turned sleeve or insert.

The pattern shown above could just as easily be replaced with one made in the form of a cone to support the bowl of a goblet.

 

[12345Peter]

...It doesn't look very flexible for mounting other stuff on it.....the cone is fixed.

Might I respectfully suggest that when you ask for advise you take note of that given, variations of revolving centre adaptors and extensions are a regular occurrence to a regular turner.
Spend a little more time researching the solution offered rather than challenging the advise.

I can't see any challenge to the advise (sic) given, it sounds like David doesn't understand what was said, but then we all make mistakes.

Peter

 

[Davidf]

...It doesn't look very flexible for mounting other stuff on it.....the cone is fixed.

Might I respectfully suggest that when you ask for advise you take note of that given, variations of revolving centre adaptors and extensions are a regular occurrence to a regular turner.
Spend a little more time researching the solution offered rather than challenging the advise.

I can't see any challenge to the advise (sic) given, it sounds like David doesn't understand what was said, but then we all make mistakes.

Peter

Sorry, yes , on a learning curve here.

Certainly no offense intended.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Looking at it earlier, its a pointed metal cone set into a bearing, which is in turn mounted onto the tail stock structure.

So, looking at it the other way, theres the 3/4 inch horizontal tailstock, on the end of which is mounted (some how) this metal cone, which spins freely.

Does that make sense.....if not I'll post a picture when I'm next free.

I'll post a photo of mine later, along with one of the many pieces I have made to go over it. I might be able to explain what I mean with the aid of photos.
It is basically a cover for the metal part to protect the finished surface.

 

[Davidf]

...It doesn't look very flexible for mounting other stuff on it.....the cone is fixed.

Might I respectfully suggest that when you ask for advise you take note of that given, variations of revolving centre adaptors and extensions are a regular occurrence to a regular turner.
Spend a little more time researching the solution offered rather than challenging the advise.The method of locating them depends upon the manufacture of the particular centre, some have a hollow core to allow boring through the tail stock and fitting of numerous alternate patterns of pointed centres, others are just fixed size solid centres.

None are difficult to adapt with a quickly turned sleeve or insert.

The pattern shown above could just as easily be replaced with one made in the form of a cone to support the bowl of a goblet.

I was slightly taken a back when I read this before work this morning.

I think its a shame you feel like this especially as one of the notes (posts ) was able to answer my initial confusion without me spending further time on dead loss situation.

Additionally, the posters have been able to advise me on a much better proceedure for turning which is (crucially) going to simplify the situation muchly.

I'm not sure how you felt "challenged " by my posts but it certainly wasn't intended that way. Merely a rather step learning curve as i say.

Thanks again to every body for putting me right.

 

[Davidf]

When I'm off shift again I ve got to go throiugh these notes and familiarise myself with terms.

( and look for another job....just thought I'd throw that in)

 

[CHJ]

I was slightly taken a back when I read this before work this morning.

I think its a shame you feel like this especially as one of the notes (posts ) was able to answer my initial confusion without me spending further time on dead loss situation......I'm not sure how you felt "challenged " by my posts but it certainly wasn't intended that way. Merely a rather step learning curve as i say.

....

Sorry if you were but I read your response to:-

Do you have a revolving centre for your tailstock? (live centre I think some call it?)
This video by Bob Hamilton shows how to easily turn a wooden cone for it. I use one with a bit of non-slip mat to supporthollow objects. The benefit is you can make one for every size of hollow.

Looking at it earlier, its a pointed metal cone set into a bearing, which is in turn mounted onto the tail stock structure.

So, looking at it the other way, theres the 3/4 inch horizontal tailstock, on the end of which is mounted (some how) this metal cone, which spins freely.

Does that make sense.....if not I'll post a picture when I'm next free.

It doesn't look very flexible for mounting other stuff on it.....the cone is fixed.

As challenging the advise of Tazmaniandevil, when a Google of his reference to live centres and the video clip should have given you a better understanding of the technique without having to speculate on how a live centre or its addaptors function.

 

[Davidf]

I was slightly taken a back when I read this before work this morning.

I think its a shame you feel like this especially as one of the notes (posts ) was able to answer my initial confusion without me spending further time on dead loss situation......I'm not sure how you felt "challenged " by my posts but it certainly wasn't intended that way. Merely a rather step learning curve as i say.

....

Sorry if you were but I read your response to:-

Do you have a revolving centre for your tailstock? (live centre I think some call it?)
This video by Bob Hamilton shows how to easily turn a wooden cone for it. I use one with a bit of non-slip mat to supporthollow objects. The benefit is you can make one for every size of hollow.

Looking at it earlier, its a pointed metal cone set into a bearing, which is in turn mounted onto the tail stock structure.

So, looking at it the other way, theres the 3/4 inch horizontal tailstock, on the end of which is mounted (some how) this metal cone, which spins freely.

Does that make sense.....if not I'll post a picture when I'm next free.

It doesn't look very flexible for mounting other stuff on it.....the cone is fixed.

As challenging the advise of Tazmaniandevil, when a Google of his reference to live centres and the video clip should have given you a better understanding of the technique without having to speculate on how a live centre or its addaptors function.

Well there you go, if you are "challenged" by someone obviously looking for advice ona wood working forum, perhapts that's a little bit unfortunate.

 

[CHJ]

Well there you go, if you are "challenged" by someone obviously looking for advice ona wood working forum, perhapts that's a little bit unfortunate.

???? I take it my attempts to help you with previous posts and the time I took to look up an image to show the technique in this thread don't count as trying to help then.

 

[Davidf]

Well there you go, if you are "challenged" by someone obviously looking for advice ona wood working forum, perhapts that's a little bit unfortunate.

???? I take it my attempts to help you with previous posts and the time I took to look up an image to show the technique in this thread don't count as trying to help then.

Yes, 4th post in was very informative, thanks.

I don't know what's going on now.

I write on forums too.

If I think someone has missed a link I just repaste it and remind them of it, rather than suggesting some personal attack which was never intended.

TBH I'm here to solve a wood working problem I don't especailly want to spend the rest of the evening in a needless squabble.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Sorry chap, forgot to take the camera out with me yesterday. If I'm allowed out to play today I will take a quick pic.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Here we go. Didn't get out to play, so nipped out while dinner was cooking.

This is my live centre. Quite old, and you can clearly see where the metal bits could mark a finished surface.

The cupped end was turned from an old scaffold board

It's quite a snug fit over the centre so it doesn't wobble about

Once fitted, it sits inside the hollow piece you need to support. Again, quite a snug fit, but not too tight as to cause damage.

Hope this helps fella. It's sometimes difficult to visualise what folk are trying to explain. By keeping the cupped part quite long, there should be plenty of support for the turned piece.

 

[Davidf]

Here we go. Didn't get out to play, so nipped out while dinner was cooking.

This is my live centre. Quite old, and you can clearly see where the metal bits could mark a finished surface.

The cupped end was turned from an old scaffold board

It's quite a snug fit over the centre so it doesn't wobble about

Once fitted, it sits inside the hollow piece you need to support. Again, quite a snug fit, but not too tight as to cause damage.

Hope this helps fella. It's sometimes difficult to visualise what folk are trying to explain. By keeping the cupped part quite long, there should be plenty of support for the turned piece.

Yes it does. 8)

I finish my shift tomorrow and will go through all these answers carefully.

 

[Davidf]

Turn the tenon to fit the chuck then turn the base in front of that. You will be able to reverse chuck the piece and taking very light cuts, take the tenon off.

Yes just looking at this again, I take it the first job really is to make the spigot (or tenon), then the job is revered in the chuck (as you say) and yoiu can start to holow out the inside.

The thought occured to me, whn you ve worked dwon to the base end, I suppose you have to be careful to allow sifficent base or foot (in the case of my goblet anyway) as some material will be lost when parting off?

Hmmmm, I think its coming clearer now.

I was just looking at the chuck; using different jaws it enables about 1.5 inch tenon but I suppose it doesn't matter as its going to be parted off anyway at then end.

Quite right
generally your piece of wood will need to be an inch or two longer than the finished article. This gives you plenty of meat to grab hold of.

Depending on which jaws you use the tenon/ spigot should be the optimum size for each set of jaws (see Chas's guide here) .
In short open your jaws till you have a true circle and measure the diameter. this will be the approximate size of the required tenon. you want as much of the jaw in contact with the wood as possible. If your tenon is too big you will be clamping with just the edges of each jaw which will not give you much support. Obviously this size tenon will be used whenever you use that particular set of jaws regardless of the finished product size.

So when doing a goblet...
spindle blank longer than needed.
mark centres.
place between centres (or grab across flats in jaws), rough to round and turn optimum tenon at tailstock end.
reverse wood and place tenon in jaws, bring up tailstock to centre the other end before tightening jaws.
you can now have a go at the cup end with either forstner drill bit or spindle gouge on its side and shape the inside.
turn outside of cup to rough size and remove some of the waste wood at the base of the cup (top of the stem) to allow you to shape the bottom of the cup. dont go too thin at this point.
I then shape, sand and finish the cup and bring up the tailstock and support (dont push!) the cup with a turned cone.
then work your way down the stem towards the base turning , sanding and finishing as you go. and NEVER be tempted to go back over the finished piece.
This way your work will always have the most support and and rigidity possible.

I hope that makes sense. It is not necessarily the correct way to do it but its the way i do it and it works

I was trying to do the "stem" but found the wood kept grabbing or snatching and eventually decided to settle for what I'd got.....

 

[Davidf]

....and started to part it off.

(strictly speaking the pictures are in reverse order chronologically)


Any tips on avoiding the snatching problem.. I would still like to do a goblet.... that signifcant progress for me though.

(Hope I havent repeat my self apols if I have #-o )

 

[nev]

....and started to part it off.

(strictly speaking the pictures are in reverse order chronologically)


Any tips on avoiding the snatching problem.. I would still like to do a goblet.... that signifcant progress for me though.

(Hope I havent repeat my self apols if I have #-o )

What tool are you using David?
Generally a snatching occurs because the tool is not supported by the bevel or not being presented to the work at the correct angle, or possibly the toolrest too far away from the work?

What will also help as you get thinner on the stem is to give the cup end a little support by using a scrap of wood turned to fit half in half out of the cup and then bring the tailstock up to lightly hold it in place. not too much pressure or you could snap the stem.

A while ago i videoed my attempts at using a skew , put it on youtube and posted the link here on the forum and asked what i was doing wrong . Its far easier than trying to explain what/ how you do what you do when the catch occurs. Thanks to the forum and the advice received I'm a little better now

 

[Davidf]

....and started to part it off.

(strictly speaking the pictures are in reverse order chronologically)


Any tips on avoiding the snatching problem.. I would still like to do a goblet.... that signifcant progress for me though.

(Hope I havent repeat my self apols if I have #-o )

What tool are you using David?
Generally a snatching occurs because the tool is not supported by the bevel or not being presented to the work at the correct angle, or possibly the toolrest too far away from the work?

What will also help as you get thinner on the stem is to give the cup end a little support by using a scrap of wood turned to fit half in half out of the cup and then bring the tailstock up to lightly hold it in place. not too much pressure or you could snap the stem.

A while ago i videoed my attempts at using a skew , put it on youtube and posted the link here on the forum and asked what i was doing wrong . Its far easier than trying to explain what/ how you do what you do when the catch occurs. Thanks to the forum and the advice received I'm a little better now

Not sure as I wan tot do that....lol

Remember most of this is (apart from your own good selves of course self taught....

I was using the spindle gouge (like a human "nail" or about that size) as you say I was working with ever decreasing support .

It was ok on the angle leading up the cup but working inwards across the top of the base of the goblet .....to wards the centre of what should have been he spindle......I was getting the snatching.

Strangely enoiugh the parting tool was working fine!! The gouge on the bottom of the bowl was ok..... but not wrking towards /making the spindle rom the base. If that makes sense.

Thanks for your reply...... the support sounds a good idea. 8) 8)

 

[Davidf]

A I say the (now liquid safe) cup is in the hands of the royal mail.... early pressie for my folks.... so I'm hoping your inputs are not just pleasing me. =D>

 

[nev]

Sounds like you are trying to approach the stem with the tip of the tool. you need to come at it from the side. start with the tool on its side at the top of one of the slopes (cup or base) with the flute facing the direction of travel, rest the bottom of the bevel of the tool on the slope and slowly pull back towards you whilst raising the handle. This should introduce the cutting edge to the wood gradually. when the cut starts continue it down the slope and along the stem. Harder to explain than it is to do.
I had a quick search of youtube and found plenty of videos of how not to do it, but did find this one...
Have a look at and a listen to Bob Hamilitons clips like this one, its not a goblet stem but its the same principle.
Hope that helps.
If you dont fancy the public posting of a what am i doing wrong video :shock: you can always pm one of us

 

[Davidf]

Sounds like you are trying to approach the stem with the tip of the tool. you need to come at it from the side. start with the tool on its side at the top of one of the slopes (cup or base) with the flute facing the direction of travel, rest the bottom of the bevel of the tool on the slope and slowly pull back towards you whilst raising the handle. This should introduce the cutting edge to the wood gradually. when the cut starts continue it down the slope and along the stem. Harder to explain than it is to do.
I had a quick search of youtube and found plenty of videos of how not to do it, but did find this one...
Have a look at and a listen to Bob Hamilitons clips like this one, its not a goblet stem but its the same principle.
Hope that helps.
If you dont fancy the public posting of a what am i doing wrong video :shock: you can always pm one of us

hmmmm ... sounds what I had to do with the bowl.

I'll come back to the video a little later. 8)

Bob Hamilton is ok??