Triton or Trend router

[1animal1]

Hi, given that I have a few projects lined up, I thought I'd go nuts and buy a new router to help with the jobs. I've been aiming mostly at the 1/2" collets due to being more robust and more versatile. The heavy duty use will be cutting mortices for a new gate, door hinge cuts, and general use, possibly eventually buying a table.

I wanted the DeWalt or Makita purely because I'll never need to buy another again, but second hand prices are expectedly high and some of the units really ropey!

So I'm settling towards the Trend T7 or the Triton tra001 refurb... The Triton I think is in pole position when looking at the many reviews.

What do you guys think?

 

[fleyh]

Triton routers are good machines (I own MOF and TRB) but they are in the world of their own. With a couple of exceptions - there are almost no 3rd party accessories.
TRA is a good option for a permanent fixture in a router table and for slab leveling (due to power) but it is too heavy for door hinge/lock routing, especially if you are not working on the horizontally clamped door, e.g. routing hinge on the door frame, routing strike plate or can't be bothered to remove the door (yet again) to route its lock plate.

Gate mortises - this sounds like a one off job so it might be easier to cut those with a chisel or drill with a forstner bit and finish with a chisel.
Door hinges - having installed 5 doors first time in my life (with the very helpful advise from the members of this forum) I would go as far as to advise not to bother with the router unless you deal with many doors or use one of the very light palm routers and dust thrown everywhere is not an issue in your circumstances.
I spent way more time building the hinge jig and setting stuff up for the router than I would have if I just practiced a bit with a chisel on an off-cut and then cut all hinges and locks without a router.
FYI - I was using much smaller/lighter Trend T4 for everything door related and nevertheless found it inadequate for the job - primarily due to still heavy weight and complete inability to set it up with dust extraction cover attached.

If I was starting my router acquisition again - I would probably have gone for a heavy Makita/Dewalt/Bosch (designed to go into the router table) and one of the lighter Festool routers for everything else. Festool routers are ridiculously expensive, but annoying shortcomings of MOF and T4 have almost converted me into a hand tool woodworker.

It may be tempting to look for used models on ebay - like Elu (DeWalt predecessor) or older Bosch - but I would advise against that because router bit spins way too fast to risk it.

 

[Spectric]

The Triton is a great router for table use, plenty of power and has a handle for above table height adjustment but I don't use it handheld, I have a Trend T10 which is basically a grey Dewalt 625 that I use for non table work. I have the Dewalt 625 in a Woodrat and as this has a muscle chuck I have spare collets for the Trend as well as a fence a extra bar, one bar is used in the rat.

Ideally you want a table router and a handheld 1/2 plus a 1/4 trim router can be handy but I would look at the two as being different to suit the individual task. When it comes to router tables things have changed, do a search on these forums for the threads but if starting from nothing then starting point is the choice of router table or spindle moulder, something many of us overlooked and just went router table because they seem to get all the publicity. If router table then do your homework as it will save you some money in the long term, get it right first time and don't buy several systems like I have done to end up with what I should have brought in the first place, look at the lift with router motor as it is a great solution and designed as a router table not a plunge router fitted into a table.

Handheld also look at HiKOKI M12VE 110V 1570W Variable Speed 1/2in Router with Case

 

[Etaf]

just seen this come on the forum
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/trend-t7-and-unibase.144608/

 

[1animal1]

Thanks gents, so the Triton is definitely sounding like an unviable option for my needs, possibly even the T7.

The main reason I should have perhaps mentioned was to replace a cheap router with no fence to cut a 35mm deep 14mm wide groove in a door to fit a drop seal.

I'm not sure I'll get the use for a table, I haven't until this point, the spindle moulder might also be on the more expensive side, I was hoping to spend £100-£150 as it'll sit dormant a lot of the time, unless I get the bug and find a cheap wood yard.

I'm now wondering if the T7 or a trim router might do with the drop guard. I have the Ryobi kit for example, so that might fit the bill, I'm just worried about being under powered for jobs such as the door cut

 

[fleyh]

The main reason I should have perhaps mentioned was to replace a cheap router with no fence to cut a 35mm deep 14mm wide groove in a door to fit a drop seal.

Have you considered using a circular saw with a side fence to make your groove? Remove the door from hinges, clamp couple of battens either side of the door (to widen the working area) - attach a fence to your circular saw, set the depth and start cutting, moving the fence on the width of the blade after every cut. It is going to take a while, but if you only need to do this once - no point in getting a special tool for that.

Alternatively - if your groove is in fact a rabbet - get yourselves Stanley No78 off of eBay. They go for 10 to 20 pounds. Chances are - you will find many more jobs for that No 78 later on.

Another alternative - if you already have the router but without a fence - clamp a batten on one side of the door (proud of the door) so you could attach another batten next to it to use as a guide for your router. Then start routing, using shallow passes (increasing depth after each pass). Each time you need to shift your router to widen the groove - just add some shims of the appropriate size between the two battens.
Router power should not be a limiting factor in this instance - find the depth it is comfortable cutting in one go and do not exceed it. Either way, to be safe, make sure that single cut depth is no greater than the router bit collect size.

 

[bp122]

I have the trend t10 for handheld use and the Triton tra in the table. Mind you, you have to take into account the cost of a good router plate (£80-£140)if you want to make a proper router table (but can get away with it for a little while using a strong piece of ply, sacrificing some stroke)

Triton wins for the table use and handheld for me, although t10 is really good as well. One thing to keep in mind is the stroke length. I think T7 is less compared to Triton, which will be useful if you are using under a table.

 

[1animal1]

Have you considered using a circular saw with a side fence to make your groove? Remove the door from hinges, clamp couple of battens either side of the door (to widen the working area) - attach a fence to your circular saw, set the depth and start cutting, moving the fence on the width of the blade after every cut. It is going to take a while, but if you only need to do this once - no point in getting a special tool for that.

Alternatively - if your groove is in fact a rabbet - get yourselves Stanley No78 off of eBay. They go for 10 to 20 pounds. Chances are - you will find many more jobs for that No 78 later on.

Another alternative - if you already have the router but without a fence - clamp a batten on one side of the door (proud of the door) so you could attach another batten next to it to use as a guide for your router. Then start routing, using shallow passes (increasing depth after each pass). Each time you need to shift your router to widen the groove - just add some shims of the appropriate size between the two battens.
Router power should not be a limiting factor in this instance - find the depth it is comfortable cutting in one go and do not exceed it. Either way, to be safe, make sure that single cut depth is no greater than the router bit collect size.

The circular and trapping the existing router were both considered. I suppose the easiest thing would be to get a new fence, I presume they're relatively universal, I just need to check the rod dimensions...

I think I was using this as an excuse for a new tool know I've other jobs coming up that I could use a new router for to save time.

Now looking at the Ryobi trim router, that might just do the job for £70. It has a fence, battery powered so very convenient, I'll just need to make a couple of extra passes. What's not to like?

 

[1animal1]

I have the trend t10 for handheld use and the Triton tra in the table. Mind you, you have to take into account the cost of a good router plate (£80-£140)if you want to make a proper router table (but can get away with it for a little while using a strong piece of ply, sacrificing some stroke)

Triton wins for the table use and handheld for me, although t10 is really good as well. One thing to keep in mind is the stroke length. I think T7 is less compared to Triton, which will be useful if you are using under a table.

You sound like you might get a lot more use out of both compared to me.

I can't think when I would ever have used a table

 

[bp122]

You sound like you might get a lot more use out of both compared to me.

I can't think when I would ever have used a table

I thought the same at first, but unless the workpiece is large, bulky or heavy, a router table is far safer to work on than handheld. Especially for smaller /narrower parts.

I'd say Go for Triton. So that when you find a use where you need to use it under a table (even a makeshift one) your router will have the extra stroke and power plus the easy height adjustment you might appreciate.

 

[TRITON]

I'd also say go for the Triton. Its a big old basta'd and with some very neat features, like the wind down on the handle. It's got to power for any cutter.

Trend is just as good. Power etc etc, but I've preferred my Triton.
Also got the makita rto702 with the assorted bases for everything else.

Cant see the point in having two big 1/2ers. Easy enough to fit in and out of a table if and when, but if you arent using the table all the time, its just a waste of funds.

 

[Ttrees]

Cant see the point in having two big 1/2ers. Easy enough to fit in and out of a table if and when, but if you arent using the table all the time, its just a waste of funds.

Have you got a fancy router plate for the table, or using something homemade?
Asking, as I get the impression something with features seemingly might not be as simple as that.
Either way, nice to read of that being a non-issue to some.

Never used a router table myself, so it's a bit of a guessing game as to what "I" would consider a
load of faff, i.e the use of it in the table, and dismantling it thereafter for other jobs, which I have
smaller routers for (which actually have a cutter in them)

Been thinking of making me own table insert plate vs something overhead, seeing as both options are nearing availability on the extension wing of the tablesaw.

Seems you also may need a musclechuck to get the best out of a router table,
well for use of such a machine, in absence of a spindle molder that is...
but I know nothing of how often I'd need this.

Quite difficult to find some decent info regarding this, what isn't a commercial
omitting practical alternatives for a hard sell,
or the very basics, like in Roy Sutton's old videos.

Anyone know of somewhere I can find someone doing things very splendidly on the cheap?
Cheers
Tom

 

[TRITON]

Have you got a fancy router plate for the table, or using something homemade?
Asking, as I get the impression something with features seemingly might not be as simple as that.
Either way, nice to read of that being a non-issue to some.

Never used a router table myself, so it's a bit of a guessing game as to what "I" would consider a
load of faff, i.e the use of it in the table, and dismantling it thereafter for other jobs, which I have
smaller routers for (which actually have a cutter in them)

Been thinking of making me own table insert plate vs something overhead, seeing as both options are nearing availability on the extension wing of the tablesaw.

Seems you also may need a musclechuck to get the best out of a router table,
well for use of such a machine, in absence of a spindle molder that is...
but I know nothing of how often I'd need this.

Quite difficult to find some decent info regarding this, what isn't a commercial
omitting practical alternatives for a hard sell,
or the very basics, like in Roy Sutton's old videos.

Anyone know of somewhere I can find someone doing things very splendidly on the cheap?
Cheers
Tom

Ive a Triton router table(not the best but does the job) its got a plate the router clips on to with the same 2 mounts that connect it to the fence.

if you feel the need then ignore what I said and sort out two 1/2" and keep one fitted. Its whatever you think you'll need.
If I was doing more work or working commercially I'd probably have a permanently set up table, or even something like the small Charnwood spindle moulder -Axminster tools used to do the same machine but recently stopped selling them.
https://www.thesawcentre.co.uk/char...MIkaSx5_ragQMVkOztCh3_LQFREAQYASABEgI3pPD_BwE

If you add the cost of a 1/2" router, and a reasonably good table, you won't be far off the price of the charnwood moulder. In fact its the same price as the Axminster UJK router table by itself before even adding in a router, and if you wanted to add a router lift it would be a lot more.

 

[clogs]

Hitachi is also a good make.......had mine working for years......
have a 3hp unit perm in the r/table plus another 3hp hand held.......
have at least 6 small ones, 1/4 / 6mm sized trim routers, my go to machine is a Makita....
the others are Bosch, dewalt etc.....they will all get sold off once organised in the new shop....

router tables are handy but my spindle moulder get more use........

 

[rst rob]

+1 for the Triton for table use mine stays fixed in the table use a makita cordless baby for the small stuff then have a tread 1/4 inch if needing the plunge and a beastie 1/2 makita for larger work.
Have done through mortice's with a router but is not the fastest or most pleasant way and don't have room for a morticer was contemplating a domino (750) just for through mortice's if I get many door orders

 

[Spectric]

Having used the Triton in a table for some time it was a good starting point without hindsight, but not if you are starting out from scratch with nothing and want to buy just once. Lets not mention the spindle moulder which is also a viable option but for router tables there are much better solutions now then there were. Taking a plunge router and hanging it upside down in a table by its neck is not ideal but that was once the only way, now we can use a dedicated router motor that fits into a precision lift and held round the waist to deliver a really good engineered solution. I am at a halfway position where I am using a modified Triton in a Jessem prestige lift because I basically took off in the wrong direction and it has cost me more than it should have, end objective is a bench with router like the one from hooked on wood using the Jessem and AUK router motor.

 

[MikeJhn]

-1 for the Triton and it's dedicated table, the power lock on the router is a pain to unlock under the table and the table is a design disaster, to change the height of the cutter you have to move the fence, very poorly designed IMO, sold mine on, the Charnwood spindle moulder look good, or even the Lumberjack router table: Lumberjack 1500W Variable Speed Bench Top Router Table with Integrated can't beat the price, I modified mine to use an Axminster fence and dust extract.

 

[Tal]

I bought my first router (1/2") to fit my kitchen, oak worktops etc.

I went for the Hikoki M12VE.
I was concerned the Triton would be rather heavy based on reviews I read here.

I've no basis for a comparison but it made easy work of the 40mm oak tops. I used Trend cutters with it and found the finish to be excellent. Would highly recommend, I am an avid DIYer rather than a professional though.

 

[MikeJhn]

If you need a 1/2" router then the Hikoki M12VE is very good, but do have a look at the Draper Expert, good enough that I bought another to dedicate to my Leigh Jig, the three lights in the bottom plate was a bonus.

 

[BearTricks]

I have the Hikoki 1/2 inch mentioned earlier in this thread. Had a Makita years ago but got rid as it was too much machine for what I needed it for at the time.

I also have a Makita 1/4 inch palm router. They do different jobs and both are really useful to have. Bought a cheapo bit set from Rutlands on offer a while back with the intention of swapping out the bits I use most for better quality when they wear out.