Tree removal, which type of drill?

[pe2dave]

Tree (was live a day ago), green wood, half and half under my fence.
Dug down 18" cut 3 tap roots.
Now need to cut through the 18-24" bole. Hardly get a saw to it (no, I don't have access to a chainsaw).
Thinks:
Drill a series of holes... Tree keeps grabbing the drill bits, using 28mm bit.
What kind of drill would you use please?

 

[okeydokey]

I guess the tree is still standing and no chance of pulling it sideways?
Access for something like this ?
https://www.toolstation.com/black-decker-400w-scorpion-saw/p95524
I think most drill bits will be grabbed and something with enough torque could break your wrist? Hope its not oak or blackthorn as they are pretty hard
Phone local tree surgeon or keep an eye out for one parked by a shop or if you see one working ask how much to chop it out?
Ask a hire shop what you could hire to do the job

 

[Noel]

Any chance of a picture Dave?
Can you get a long bow saw near it or a good sharp panel saw, can you remove part of the fence to get better access?
A sharp axe or hatchet if you can get a swing at it.
If you can cut or chop a wedge out might be easier to drill, a corded drill might be easier to use too.

 

[pe2dave]

trunk on neighbours side of 6' fence, roots mainly my side?
Guess 18" diameter. All below ground level ( I need to replace a gravel board at ground level)
I have a short axe (no, poor swing).
Have sawn a 'wedge' - corded big Bosch drill is spinning the clutch (auger bits which really grab!).
Going to try a thinner one... 12mm perhaps.
Thinking it's just patience and short spells
Spade bits started to smoke in seconds.
SDS masonry bits don't really grab - equally they don't drill much!

regards

 

[Chief Sawdust Maker]

If you have the hole started and are prepared to sacrifice your auger bit grind off the screw point spur or blunt the screw thread
You will then have to push the auger rather than it dragging its self in
If the hole isn't started then drill a pilot hole with a 6mm jobbers drill, blunt the screw on the auger and use the pilot hole for the screw point.
I use this method to drill telegraph poles and sleepers
Forstner bits can also work well but often not much drilling depth, I have a number of Dewalt Forstners with removeable / replaceable screw points

Hope This Helps

 

[Stigmorgan]

Hammer and chisel?

 

[pe2dave]

If you have the hole started and are prepared to sacrifice your auger bit grind off the screw point spur or blunt the screw thread
You will then have to push the auger rather than it dragging its self in
If the hole isn't started then drill a pilot hole with a 6mm jobbers drill, blunt the screw on the auger and use the pilot hole for the screw point.
I use this method to drill telegraph poles and sleepers
Forstner bits can also work well but often not much drilling depth, I have a number of Dewalt Forstners with removeable / replaceable screw points

Hope This Helps

I *think* the body of the auger bit also grabs? Less so than the point.
Pilot to reduce that pull - excellent idea - thank you.
I'll try it when I've a bit more energy.
I guess I need...8" depth to make pulling the tree 'easier', so
-1 on Forstners.

 

[woodieallen]

Try Youtube for ideas. Loads out there. For example

 

[pe2dave]

Agree. Epsom salts was a surprise to me.
I've cut down 15 yo ash, but had full access (all round).
Easier when you can dig all round to get to the roots.
This one is older (27 years?) and planted next to the fence...
surprise surprise it grew and pushed the fence!
[Also, the neighbour has cut it short, leaving little 'leverage' once the roots are 'loose' ish)

 

[Bingy man]

Reciprocating saw with a long blade ..might be a bit of a push on an 18” trunk but if you can get at 2 or 3 sides but a picture paints a thousand words..

 

[MarkAW]

Paying a tree surgeon with a stump grinder isn't all that much. Might be worth asking for a quote. Sounds like you may need to remove the fence panel to work on it

 

[alex robinson]

Using a drill to cut through a tree seems a very difficult way of doing things!

Do you actually need to remove the stump, or would cutting it just below ground level be good enough? If you have dug round to sever some big roots, there ought to be at least some access. Mains electric chainsaws are super cheap second hand. Get one and a sharpener and some protective gear (esp trousers + boots) and you will be through it in no time.

A hand saw would also work - this is designed to cope with roots: http://www.silkyfox.co.uk/gomtaro-root-cutting.php

If you want to get the whole rootball out, how about a root breaker (https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/tools-a...ork-tools/neverbend-root-breaker/p/ZT4027936S) or a root spade (https://www.harrodhorticultural.com/original-root-assassin-shovel-and-saw-pid10361.html)

 

[pe2dave]

Reciprocating saw with a long blade ..might be a bit of a push on an 18” trunk but if you can get at 2 or 3 sides but a picture paints a thousand words..

Nope, just one side of the fence. As you say, v.long blade!

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

Dave you give me the impression that you have access to your neighbor's garden such that you can only get to the tree from your garden. If that's the case then any and every attempt at removal is going to be a right pain. When we've had some trees removed the TSs have cut the stump pretty close to the ground before using the stump grinder and that machine needs a fair amount of access room. Sorry not to be more constructive.
I'll have to watch those videos ^^^^^ and find the epson salts comment because I have a goat willow stump that refuses to die even with pretty strong (though old) weed killer packed into holes I've drilled into it. I too have access problems as it's half into the neighbor's boundary full of 18" worth of brambles so it's difficult to get to it.
Good luck.
Martin

EDIT: @pe2dave What was the Epsom salts comment as I've watched both videos and didn't come across it?

 

[stuart little]

Dave you give me the impression that you have access to your neighbor's garden such that you can only get to the tree from your garden. If that's the case then any and every attempt at removal is going to be a right pain. When we've had some trees removed the TSs have cut the stump pretty close to the ground before using the stump grinder and that machine needs a fair amount of access room. Sorry not to be more constructive.
I'll have to watch those videos ^^^^^ and find the epson salts comment because I have a goat willow stump that refuses to die even with pretty strong (though old) weed killer packed into holes I've drilled into it. I too have access problems as it's half into the neighbor's boundary full of 18" worth of brambles so it's difficult to get to it.
Good luck.
Martin

EDIT: @pe2dave What was the Epsom salts comment as I've watched both videos and didn't come across it?

Try red diesel in the holes - I used it + some 'mixed fuel' (petrol allowed to evaporate) to successfully get rid of bamboo, with no lasting harm to the ground.

 

[Fergie 307]

Might be too late now but I usually leave 3-4 foot of stump for some leverage. As you cut successive side roots it becomes easier to pull it over. I then use a reciprocating saw. Have you got any other suitably placed large trees nearby? Another method is to put a strap around another tree and use a block and tackle to pull the stump out.

 

[pe2dave]

Might be too late now but I usually leave 3-4 foot of stump for some leverage. As you cut successive side roots it becomes easier to pull it over. I then use a reciprocating saw. Have you got any other suitably placed large trees nearby? Another method is to put a strap around another tree and use a block and tackle to pull the stump out.

<chuckles/> Ditto. Sadly it was my neighbour with the hard job of cutting down trees and brambles. Given a choice, I'd suggest 6' for an older tree, more leverage.
Alternative, a series of stakes driven into the ground as far away as practical to reduce the angle, then a pulley advantage. Worked a treat on some I 'dealt with'.

 

[Bingy man]

I have a large heavy duty 6 ton chain puller .as long as I can anchor to a nearby ( 20 ) feet tree or similar I’ve always managed ti get the root out . That said it’s no easy job to get to and cut all the side roots .even a 1” root can hold the trunk ridgid if there’s a few of them. @pe2dave I’d be speaking with the neighbours and getting full access around the stump as it will definitely improve your success. Hit it with every tool you have eg reciprocating saw ,, lopping shears, axe pick even dynamite ( lol ) only joking on the last one ,,

 

[pe2dave]

I have a large heavy duty 6 ton chain puller .as long as I can anchor to a nearby ( 20 ) feet tree or similar I’ve always managed ti get the root out . That said it’s no easy job to get to and cut all the side roots .even a 1” root can hold the trunk ridgid if there’s a few of them. @pe2dave I’d be speaking with the neighbours and getting full access around the stump as it will definitely improve your success. Hit it with every tool you have eg reciprocating saw ,, lopping shears, axe pick even dynamite ( lol ) only joking on the last one ,,

Yes, though new neighbours, treading carefully. Agree though, 360 access is essential.
Considering buying a cheap mains chainsaw to attack it. Leave remnants in the ground
then use the Magnesium sulphate (epsom salts) to do its job

 

[Bingy man]

Paying a tree surgeon with a stump grinder isn't all that much. Might be worth asking for a quote. Sounds like you may need to remove the fence panel to work on it

A stump grinder can be hired for around £200 all in for weekend . A tree surgeon will likely charge at least this amount. Subsequent stumps at the same location are then charged at a cheaper amount but a lot comes down to the diameter and the complexity of the root system. The machine is manual ( no gear box ) so a lot of dragging and pushing. They also make a lot mess so I’d recommend a good breakfast .. some of these stumps below were over 30 “ in diameter and it took 2 of us a weekend..