Towbars

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The Bear

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Having never had one, I know nothing about these. My boss wants one on the car we have at work to occasionally tow a 750kg trailer (empty fuel bowser). He tasked me to sort what we need. I emailed the fleet manager who came back with the following questions

If you are to have this fitted we will need to know as we will have to get a quote :
A) whether it would be a double or single tow bar or ball
B) whether it is to be electrical


With regard to the first Q, whats the difference? I though they all compromised of a ball? And what's single or double?

This will be used infrequently, probably not even by me, and mainly on our site so not a public road/place.

So what are all these types? I'd ask the fleet manager but he's now on holiday.

Cheers


Mark
 
Double or single refers to the electrical connections ie if used for a caravan you would have one connection for the lights,brakes indicators etc and the other for internal electrics on the caravan.

You should refer to the owners manual for correct spec on towbar

M
 
I dont have the manual, the car hasn't been delivered yet.
I think the idea is that the fleet manager/department will spec the specifics as such, I need to tell him what we want.

From what I gather from the internet i dont want a swan neck as they are not as strong???
Are the detachable types as strong/able to tow as heavy a load???
Do I need a basic flange type???

Sounds like from your answer I only need single electrics to tow a bowser trailer (it has lights)

Thanks for your help

Mark
 
M is correct, they are asking if you need double or single electrics. Single electrics which have a 7 pin plug is what you need if you are just pulling a trailer. If you want to pull a caravan or anything with a fridge you would need two electrics. These days, though 13 pin electrics are becoming the standard and are being used on virtually all new caravans and some trailers. I would not get too bothered about it, because there are adapters which cost very little to convert a 13 to 7 pin and visa versa.

If your pulling a bowser please make sure you get a flange Towbar for your vehicle and not a Swan neck or detachable. Inevitably you will pull the trailer with liquid in it. This is major headache for the towbar manufacturers, the liquid sloshes around and exerts forces larger than the vehicle or Towbar is designed to take. The bowser should be fully baffled and preferably only towed when empty of completely full.

You also need to be careful with the plated weight of the trailer. If it exceeds what the vehicle is designed to tow, the police and your insurance will take a dim view. This applies even if the bowser is empty!

I would highly recommend a Witter Towbar, they are built like a Wadkin machine, designed to last and simply don't break! I should know, I make them!
 
The Bear":2rx0rlst said:
I dont have the manual, the car hasn't been delivered yet.
I think the idea is that the fleet manager/department will spec the specifics as such, I need to tell him what we want.

more like the fleet manager will get exactly what you ask for, so if it is wrong in any way, he has no responsibility.
 
If I were you I would ask the supplying dealer to supply and fit a tow bar with twin electrics to the manufacturers spec. All tow bars have to be able to carry the intended load regardless of style flange, swan neck, detachable etc. It doesnt matter if the only towing will be done on a private site it still has to be safe and towbars, if fitted, are now part of the MOT test. Have a look on the witter site

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 8874,d.ZG4

or towsure

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 8874,d.ZG4



for types that are available for the car(if you know the type yet)

there are also plenty of firms that will fit a towbar after you have the vehicle.
 
+1 for the Witter towbars

For your safety and that of other road users if the bowser doesn't have baffels don't tow it loaded,the worst case is only part filled as you get more movement from the contents

M
 
Towbars are all designed to meet EC 94/20 or Reg 55. This standard requires the Towbar to withstand a load applied to the Towbar in one direction only, straight down the centre of the vehicle. This is a fatigue test and is designed to ensure that the Towbar is fit for purpose. HOWEVER, it does not take account of significant sideways loads such as those created if you get a snake, I.e. trailer swaying from side to side. Severe braking, sleeping policemen stresses are also not considered.

A swan neck Towbar is primarily used on the continent and for instance is not used on for commercial vehicles applications. The arrangement of a fixed (not detachable) flange Towbar creates a triangular load bearing structure that joins the Towball to the main structure of the Towbar. This is probably the most vulnerable part of a Towbar. Swan neck systems are particularly vulnerable to sideways loading.

Towbars manufactured for the original equipment manufacturers are all compliment to the standards, however in general, they are made tas cheaply as possible and as light as possible. Often, this results in unsightly bumper cuts which is generally acceptable on the continent. Any leased vehicle would require you to replace any bumper that has been cut at the end of the lease.

Not all towbars are the same!
 
Have used Brink and Bosal towbars on various Golfs/older Volvos, and strongly recommend them. The Brink on my 1966 Volvo had been used by previous owner to tow an (occupied) double horsebox and horses are possibly as unpredictable as liquids with regard to sudden movements!
 
Guys

Thanks for all the replies, I think I have the information I need to go back to him now

Mark
 
I'd go with what Deema says.

Or respectfully suggest that this would be a better option to carry the bowser...

20110613%20Winslow_0003%20S-64F%20N158AC%20Erickson%20fue%20pod%20left%20side%20m.jpg
 
Just a couple of thoughts - Is the fuel bowser 750Kg unladen or is that the max laden weight? If its plated weight is more than 750Kg then anyone who passed their test recently may not be allowed to tow it. The other thing is with it being a fuel bowser there may be a need for ADR (Hazardous goods) certification for anyone towing it. A fuel bowser with a small amount of dregs in it is in some ways more dangerous than a full one....
 

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