Toothed blades for bevel-down planes

[swagman]

an angled cut (plane at 45 degrees moved in its own length) ?

Hi Paul.

Recently finished making these Toothing Planes.

Both planes were made with different bed angles for the blades.(56 & 64 degrees). This allowed me to do a performance evaluation on each.

Top view of toothing planes.

Both planes were worked straight , not at 45 degrees.

Results were exceptional.

Tested in both directions to the grain.

Blades are a PEEPUL Brand, Made in England, Sheffield Steel, purchased as old stock, in unused condition.

View of brass sole, and rear blade adjustment bolt.

Conclusion:

The 56 degree bed performed exceptional, even with a heavier blade set.

The 64 degree bed was more difficult to push through with a heavier blade set, but did the job ok.

Toothing Planes given the correct bed angle, will work extremely well at dressing stock down to size.

A card scraper will easily remove fine grooves left after planing.



swagman.

 

[Paul Chapman]

They look really nice, swagman, and seem to work very well.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[ac445ab]

Hi,
I am planing some rough ash boards that present tearout problems. So, after using a scrub plane I tried to use a toothing blade (here still available in some hardware stores) on a wooden plane. The blade is large 46 mm with 17 TPI, mounted bevel down and bedded at 45°.

In the following pic is shown the tearout that scrub plane has left.

The toothing blade eliminated tearout

But with the jointer (ordinary #7 Stanley plane) the problem came again.

I had to use a 50° cutting angle (back bevel) in a smoothing plane for a better result.

Has been the same for you with your jointer plane? Some advice?
Ciao,
Giuliano

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Giuliano,

Glad to see someone else using a toothing blade They really do work.

With regard to tearout after using the toothing blade, it really depends on the individual piece of wood. In most cases I can finish it with my Clifton #7 with a tight mouth and very finely set iron. If I continue to get any tearout when finishing I will use my Veritas scraper plane which eliminates the tearout completely.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Karl]

Hi Giuliano

If I need to use a toothed blade to avoid tearout, I pretty much always go for a higher angled blade afterwards (at least 55 degrees), and take fine cuts. No point risking more tearout when you've just got rid of it all.

As Paul says, a scraper plane is another option.

Cheers

Karl

 

[bugbear]

Hi,
I am planing some rough ash boards that present tearout problems. So, after using a scrub plane I tried to use a toothing blade (here still available in some hardware stores) on a wooden plane. The blade is large 46 mm with 17 TPI, mounted bevel down and bedded at 45°.

On a totally unimportant side-issue, what wood is that plane made from?

BugBear

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi BB

My guess would be something in the casuarina family. This strongly resembles She-oak, which is also a native of Western Australia.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[graween]

Hi.
It looks like holm oak (quercus ilex) : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holm_Oak I don't have a picture but you can find easily it here.
It's a mediteranean tree.
Well at least it's my guess.
Hope it helps. In French it's called green oak or "chêne vert"

 

[ac445ab]

Hi.
It looks like holm oak (quercus ilex) : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holm_Oak I don't have a picture but you can find easily it here.
It's a mediteranean tree.
Well at least it's my guess.
Hope it helps. In French it's called green oak or "chêne vert"

I agree. I saw this wood often in self-made planes here in Italy.
May be the plane I shown comes from France. It had a Gondelberg blade.

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting idea Paul - never thought of trying one of those

Until now :wink:

 

[graween]

Hi ac445ab,
Yes in the south of France (some time ago now) this wood was also common on planes. Since this oak is around the mediterranean see.
This wood is reputed to be a good one for wooden planes.
And yes Goldenberg is an old French maker. But you can still find some new tools with this brand. Sadly not as good as old ones ... but that's an other story.
I'll have to try these blades !

 

[jimi43]

As I prepare to make my first acoustic guitar one of the key issues is bookmatching some gorgeous SIKA SPRUCE and then MAHOGANY for the back. These come to me stock bookmatched pairs from the USA but the "nominal" thickness is anything from 5mm to 8mm across the jointed panel.

SIKA SPRUCE is obviously VERY straight and tight grained and thicknessing by hand is generally done by a toothed blade as far as I can ascertain. You can thickness sand the panel down to near perfect thickness (3mm) but that would be cheating now wouldn't it!

Anyway I went looking for these blades and was ASTOUNDED to find they were in the £50 range! Looking at the blade (as described so accurately above as little chisel castellations) I figured that I could try making one buy buying a new stock blade and cutting the teeth in it with a bench mounted Dremel with grinding wheel.

I am not sure if this is technically the same but it sure worked fine!

Will post some pictures when I get around to doing them

Jim

 

[bugbear]

Anyway I went looking for these blades and was ASTOUNDED to find they were in the £50 range!

I don't understand. The post that started this thread linked to a site with prices far lower than that.

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

Yes, the toothed blade I bought from **** in Germany to fit my #7 costs 28.90 Euros.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[dunbarhamlin]

SIKA SPRUCE is obviously VERY straight and tight grained and thicknessing by hand is generally done by a toothed blade as far as I can ascertain. You can thickness sand the panel down to near perfect thickness (3mm) but that would be cheating now wouldn't it!

Have done it with a plane (untoothed) but wouldn't give up my drum sander. It may burn electrons but, particularly for interesting grained hardwoods, it's a lot less fraught!
For the sitka, just watch for run out and plane accordingly. For the backs (and ribs) I'd just get close then finish with a scraper after joining.
Bear in mind once joined as a bookmatch grain direction reverses at the center line.
Cheers
Steve

 

[adrian]

I recently got the BU toothed blade for the Veritas jack and I put it to work on a piece of 14" wide figured timber (is your belt sander up to this job?). I find that I do not get tear out, but the grooves clog fairly quickly and are fairly difficult to unclog. The clogging doesn't necessarily stop it from cutting, but eventually the clogging material starts to drag and left the plane up and so cleaning it out is necessary.

Does anybody else have this difficulty?

 

[Paul Chapman]

I can't understand why you should get the shavings clogging with a bevel-up blade. Have you opened up the mouth so that the shavings have plenty of room to clear :-k

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[adrian]

This is a bevel up plane with grooves down the back. Those grooves are down and it is the grooves that fill up with crud and clog. So the mouth of the plane stays clear, but the grooves in the blade behind the edge on the bottom of the plane fill up. Then I have a bunch of little teeny tiny grooves with shavings jammed into them and my stiffest brush doesn't always clear them out. I have to find something sharp and pointy to clean out the last few.

I think a bit of crud in the grooves is probably harmless, but once it accumulates enough so that it keeps the blade from touching the wood, instead of cutting the plane makes streaks from dragging the crud along the wood.

 

[Paul Chapman]

As you probably know, I use a bevel-down toothed blade and have solved the problems I had with that clogging. I don't have a bevel-up plane but I've used Deneb Puchalski's bevel-up Lie Nielsen and watched him demonstrate it, and didn't have any problems with clogging, so can't offer any more suggestions. Here's a clip of Deneb using his http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pxKo1vj ... re=related doesn't seem to clog :? Possibly the mouth of the plane is acting the same way as the cap iron was with mine until I moved it far enough back :-k

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[adrian]

It may be that stuff is catching on the, uh, back side of the mouth. (Is that still part of the mouth? The part that's underneath the blade?) I can't exactly move that back. But I'm not sure that the back side of the mouth is really playing a role either. This clogging is most problematic when the clogs are right up near the edge.

My problem sounds different than yours. As I understand, you were getting stuff lodging under the cap iron. I'm getting stuff lodged inside the grooves on the blade itself. Since shavings wouldn't ordinarily travel underneath the blade I'm not sure where exactly the clogging material comes from.

When I saw the Deneb video it did not appear that he had any clogging issues.