Tone's Garage Projects - WIP

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I've just done a quick sketch of it. This is what it should look like when finished. L4'xD2'xH3'
bench.jpg


I've just got to work a way to attach the rails and stretchers. I was practising my M/T joints earlier but I don't think they are up to scratch just yet! I've seen the carriage bolt through with an access hole for the nut lots of times. Or even a lag bolt? Maybe this is something I can use. Only one bolt either end usually seems to be used?
 
Yes, you only need one bolt in the end of each rail. Although, adding even a short stub-tenon (and mortise) makes location much easier and would increase the strength of the joint (the bolt will hold it together). If your SCMS allows you to do trenching cuts, you could cut the shoulders and cheeks on that. Then, you've just got to cut the mortises. :wink:
 
Cheers Olly, My scms doesn't do trenching cuts as far as I am aware, its the £100 Evolution one in the second picture? I had a practise yesterday at M/T's and didn't do too badly, however I just don't think they are up to scratch yet :)

The glue up job on the legs went pretty well for my first time and only 3 clamps per legs.

At this point I still needed to clean up the ends by shaving them on the scms:
planing2.jpg


This morning was spent mostly planing wood; 4 legs, 2 rails, 2 stretchers and 2 feet:
planing1.jpg


I had some pretty big steps on the sides due to different width timbers when I glued them up. I found planing at an angle somewhere around 45 degrees helped even things up much quicker:
planing3.jpg


I was pretty happy with the results. This is the biggest planing job i've done till now. I loved the way the timber became cleaner and cleaner. I was giving a good 80-100 grit hand sanding after planing each side.
planing4.jpg


Finished :) This is about half of the shavings taken. I filled up my little bin with the other half!
planing5.jpg


I'll pop back down in a mo and give them all another hand sanding to 150grit and then I can think more about assembly.
 
OK after thinking a little about joints, I'm still going for mechanical fixings. I'll probably redo them as woodworking joints when I have more experience! Let me know if I am going wrong here please...

Unless told otherwise I'll need the following from screwfix tomorrow:

Some long screws for the legs 6x100mm (4 each leg) to attach to the feet. This should give me about 60mm into the leg. I only have 60mm ones right now and it works but is too wobbly as only about 15mm goes into the leg. I'm going for their Goldscrew line.

Coach screws to attach the rails and stretchers to the legs. M10x160mm should do the trick. 100mm through the leg putting 60mm through the rails done up with an M10 washer.

Coach bolts to attach the Record 52E. M10x130 should do it. 90mm of top then about 12mm of vice so a little left over to do the bolt up on, with washer too of course.

I'll get the big bags from Screwfix as I am bound to need them in later projects. Wickes wants something like half the price for about a tenth of the quantity!
 
Hoorah! It's done :D

Today was mainly assembly. First I took a trip to Screwfix to pick up the hardware mentioned in the above post. I also grabbed a set of their Hilki serrated forstner bits and a sanding block.

Once I got things organised I started playing with the forstner bits, my first time using them and in a power drill of all things... I lived to tell the tale :)
forstner.jpg


I had to drill through both sides of the legs as the bits only reached half way. 2 holes drilled unguided through each leg later and I was onto finishing off the feet.
feet.jpg


This involved drilling pilot holes for the huge 6x100mm screws to hold the legs on from the bottom. 5mm pilot hole right through then I counterbored with a 13mm forstner bit. 4 pilot holes in the end of each leg too.

On the ends of each foot I put a toe plate just to stop it marring on the concrete floor and hopefully help with stability. I didn't get a pic of them attached but here's me cutting them out of some 3mm ply with my Hibiki:
cuttingtoes.jpg


I attached them with 4 small veneer pins each and punched the pins below the surface.

With the toes attached to the feet and the feet attached to the legs it was rails and stretchers time! This meant bringing out the 160mm coach screws which also meant finding a 17mm socket or spanner! Luckily I found one of each and a long socket too so game on :)
railson.jpg


Next up was the stretchers. It started looking like a bench base which surprised me a bit as I thought I might be making a hash of it all :)
stretchers.jpg


Here's a pic of the finished base, the screws done up nice and tight but not FT :) You can see the toes in this pic so I did manage to get a pic of them afterall.
basefin.jpg


Now the fairly scarey part. I had to get the top lined up with the legs. I made a torsion box the other day so that I had something decent to work . I've done all the work on this which has sat on top of the workmate. The torsion box gave me a cheap, strong and pretty much warpless solution to having a thick top (90mm). This meant I could leave it in layers and then assemble it properly once the bench was built from the bottom up.

Here is a pic of the bottom layer that also served as dinner table, notepad, calculator and even a temporary benchtop while I made the bench :)
torsionbot.jpg


The bottom was attached to the legs by lining it up with them and then drilling 4.5mm pilot holes into which I screwed it all together with some 5x60mm screws. I didn't need the 100mm jobbys I used earlier as it was only going through 18mm ply this time. Last job on this part was to write a secret message which will be forever sealed inside the torsion box 8)

Next was to attach the middle and top layers of the torsion box. I joined them together first with some plasterboard screws. They are nice to use in softwood but I was a bit scared of ripping the heads off of them at times so I restrained my trigger finger and the drill's clutch quite a lot! Here's a pic:
torsionmid.jpg


The torsion box is simply 2 layers of ply with a framwork of 2x4's. i fixed the framework together for the most part with pocket screws. The additional bits in the middle and by the vice mounting point were offcuts so I used them where I expect to put dog holes later. These were held in with glue and plasterboard screws. I had to plane quite a lot to get the 2x4's flush otherwise it wouldn't be a good fit onto the bottom layer. As I will be putting holes through the top for bench dogs, etc.. I made sure to mark out where my screws were and where it was ok to drill later. Hopefully I got it all right when that time comes!

Now I started getting excited! I put the torsion box together using the bolts for the vice (fitted the vice while I was at it) I think I've gotten used to lifting that thing as I managed to manhandle it onto the bench without any aids :) Either that or all the planing over the past couple of days has turned me into Popeye :D After fitting the vice I managed to get some plasterboard screws in from underneath to bring it all together.

FINISHED!
fin.jpg


:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I stopped for some dinner, then went back to the garage. Here's a pic of it an hour later, lots of tools and a bench hook :)
1hour.jpg


Well not quite finished but near as dammit for now :) I want to get some wood to edge the front and line the vice jaws properly. I'll get some softwood for now with a view to getting oak or something harder in the future.

I've now started making jigs and things for it (bench hook shown in picture above). The need for a couple of these useful things became immediately apparent! Here's a bench hook I knocked up out of some pine framing bits. 3 bits glued together to make a wider board, then one of them ripped in half to make the stops. 3 screws and glue for each stop at right angles to the board. I've since replaced the screws with dowels - more tool friendly!
hook.jpg


I'll make another similar one but with the bottom stop running down the middle, along the length. This can then be held in the vice so that I can start planing small bits until I can get a Veritas wonder dog and a couple of Axi bench dogs.

I'm really happy with it all. I am quite impressed that the only power tools I used were my trusty Makita drill and the Evolution scms. I could probably have gotten away without the scms to be honest but I wanted to be sure that those 100x100mm legs were as square as possible and didn't trust myself to cut them right. It felt a little bit like cheating to use the coach screws but I've seen better woodworkers than I use them on benches. I would love to do another base using mortice and tenons in the future though once I've practised them more (hand cut of course!)

I'm wondering if it is worth finishing it with something? what would be best? I have some Ronseal diamond hard pine stain/varnish, would that be any good? The garage doesn't suffer much from humidity or damp/dryness. I was thinking about wax on the base?
 
Looks good and it will be interesting to see how you get on. Didn't take you long to cover the top in tools either, did it! :wink:

Whether or not you finish the frame is entirely up to you... I don't think it 'needs' it. For what it's worth, wax would be more difficult to apply than a varnish or oil (ie. more elbow grease!). Some would say to finish the top for protection (wiping away glue spills and oil stains, etc.) while others would advise it to leave it as it is (finishing can make the surface too slick).
 
Thanks Olly,

I'll probably just leave it then. The very top 3mm is just hardboard so is designed to be replaceable, held on only by some veneer pins around the edges.

I'm gonna try to get to B&Q on the way home from work to pick up some edging material so that I can cover the front and vice jaws properly. A length of 100x25mm softwood should do the trick for now.

I'm also thinking about making a removable front apron with plenty of dog holes as an optional extra. Also/or a deadman which I can use to help hold longer pieces of stock for planing.
 
It seems this thread with all the pictures was killing my allowed bandwidth on my cheapo webspace at HostHere (1Gig/month). I've spent the last few creating a photobucket account with unlimited bandwidth.

I am LOVING my bench :) I was working at it from about seven o'clock to half eleven last night without realising! I've finished the little bench hook and another one that can be held in the vice for planing small pieces. I'm looking forward to getting some bench dogs and a wonder dog when I can scrape together some cash. I also added some softwood to the vice jaws. I'll try to tie this in flush by adding some edging to the front of the worktop. Then I can add some dog holes for side clamps and dogs. I might make a sliding bench stop for the side of the bench tonight. I saw one posted on here not long ago but can't for the life of me find it now. Looked simple to make but very effective and certainly cheaper than the shop bought (Veritas?) one.

I'm also in the market for some anti fatigue matting as the concrete floor is killing my feet and legs, hence the trusty old high stool with the 70's orange seat I'm using. I tried different trainers and boots but still aching more than normal. Any recommended links? I'll have a google for some in the meantime though.
 
Tonight was spent mostly playing with my new ebay toys and then making an end stop with them :)

Ebay specials
I had a bit of a bargain hunt for old tools on Ebay over Easter. Here's the rust I ended up with.
Old French made hand drill


Record 5 1/2 Jack plane



Stanley 60 1/2 block plane



Stanley brace


Some old bits from a school clear out apparently.


They still work, I'll have to pick up a bit sharpening file soon though to give them a fresh edge.



The adjustable end stop WIP
First I sqaured up a piece of scrap softwood. Then marked out for a mortice down the middle of it. I used methods learnt in the help with a mortice thread currently being discussed. I didn't refer to it directly but think the methods I used match up :) First I made a trench to establish the sides by pressing the chisel to make a series of incisions out from the middle to the ends. Flat of the blade facing the ends of the mortice


Then after a couple of these trenching cuts the mortice had good walls. I then pared bevel down and up (whatever worked best) from the middle to the ends. This creates a sort of hump inside the mortice which in turn can be easily pared away.


I got to about half way through and then continued the same method from the other side. When you get far enough the waste just falls away leaving a pretty good mortice behind :)


I then chiseled a rebate into the mortice which could have gone better. I should have remembered advice given and not tried paring with the grain. It's inevitable that you will get caught in the grain and wheee the chisel takes out a great chunk with zero effort.


Anyway, once I had corrected this as best I could I got on with drilling the holes for the screws. I used my "new" French handdrill for this :)


Then countersunk the holes with my "new" brace and bits.


That was my first time using a brace. Blimey they work fast! you can hear the wood cracking. Not a bad job for some ex-school ebay bits either :) They need a bit of a sharpen and clean up though.


After that, I just needed to put a 6mm hole in another piece of scrap and screw it to the side of the bench.




It works pretty well :)
 
Hi Tone,

Can I ask what size the top of your workbench is please. (as in the working area on top). I've been planning mine. I was going to aim for 1220 wide to make the best use of an 8x4 sheet, but I was worried if that might be a bit small. When I look around at others, they look smaller than I was imagining.

Thanks in advance.
 
The top is approx 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. It stands approx 3 feet high, I am 5'11" tall and it feels good, even with my rubbish back.

This fits into the space I had avaliable. I had a sheet cut up at B&Q on their 20% off mad sale the other week. I had a 2'x4' cut at the end and then ripped down the middle into 6'x2'. Mainly because this meant I could get it in the car :)

The 2'x2' offcuts make very handy bases for jigs and things too!
 
Thanks for that, I'll venture down into the production area at work and measure some benches to give me a better idea of size. 4ft looks small just by looking at a tape measure but maybe it'll look better in real form.
 
I think it depends on where you are putting it mate. If I put a 6-8 foot bench in my garage I wouldn't have anywhere to put anything else :) If space isn't an issue then do an 8x4 bench that you can walk/work around. I've left a clamping overhang at the back of my bench just in case but I doubt it will ever be somewhere that I can use it.

Ideally I would have a 6 foot by 3 foot bench I think. That way I could still reach over it but have a long surface for boards. My other tables are all around 3 feet high so I can rest longer stuff on them either side of the bench if necessary.
 
Hi Tone,
Just spent time reading through your thread and what is clear you are enjoying this creating game.

I do like your bench and it should give you satisfaction and produce some good work in the future.

You mention B & Q a few times have you not got a timber yard locally? I find the superstores a bit pricy and if you buy planed comes undersized. Check it out on a bit of 4" x 2" If you are a regular user they are not averse to giving a discount. I also find superstore timber brittle and on the dry side. Any way you pays your money and take your choice.
 
Hi and thanks for taking the time to read what I've been upto :)

I do have builders yards nearby. Although I am struggling to find a local hardwood supplier. I am fairly lucky in that the garage I'm using was full of mostly useable softwood that had been liberated from skips :)

I would be interested in any good local timber suppliers soon. Particularly now that I feel ready to get some hardwood. The box stores were used just because they are there really. Can softwood really that much cheaper from builders merchants then? I'd be interested in 2x4s and floorboards to do some more garage projecs with for sure.
 
Yes they are and they are interested in you as a person. Most of them are very knowledgable. If they dont have the hardwood in stock they will know were to get it. We are fortunate in Sussex for timber suppliers as the old ports traditionaly imported timber. The area also produces timber.There is a good hardwood supplier in Tonbridge I know its Kent but its not that far. When its the Bently wood fair you should bring your wife and family down for a good day out one of the many timber related subjects is the felling and saw milling of timber. and if you can get it in your car take it home for a price.

Like you I do like a bit of skip diving and a lot of builders when finishing a job skip good timber rather than take it back to the yard (that is if they have one)
 
Fixed the softwood front skirt to the bench top today. When I get the dogs I'll start turning this and the bench top into swiss cheese with dog holes :)
First I had to glue up a couple of boards to get a thick enough piece to come in line with the vice jaw.


After some planing and a little sanding to 150grit I fitted it on. It is held to the top via three 8mm dowels and no glue. If there are any issues I'll probably add a couple more dowels. No glue added as it is designed to be replacbale once it gets heavily dinged up. Also the offcut provided me with a piece of stripwood that covers the top of the rear jaw tieing it all together and helping to protect my tools from the vice :)

 

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