Timber storage brackets - help

[Sportique]

Help please.

I need to make some timber storage racks for length material not sheet.

I have decided on the following sizes:

Overall length: 2400mm
Width: 350mm
No of brackets per 2400 run: 5
Bracket spacing: 600mm

BUT - how to form the brackets using (for example) studding, able to bear the weight with relatively simple joints. I have come up with this idea, but PLEASE improve it :roll:

I plan to use just the supports, i.e. no shelf material (the stored timber itself will form the "shelves")

Unable to guess at the weight but timber is heavy! :?

Any suggestions much appreciated, thanks in advance

Dave

 

[miles_hot]

Not in wood but when I did this I used spur shelving:

This is the stuff that I will be using: http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Access-Ir ... QQ_armrsZ1

Basically as recommended on this very useful thread:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... d84d06a47f

from here which I must update with the actual work that I did!

HTH

Miles

 

[Steve Maskery]

That brace is simply going to get in the way.

I have a ton of wood (probably literally and maybe more) stacked on my wall.

The uprights are 4x2s. Each upright is made of three layers, the centre layer interrupted every now and again to accommodate the horizontal members. Actually they're not quite hoz, they tilt up at a couple of degrees.

The uprights are then bolted to the wall and the hoz members just slot in, cantilevered by the uprights.

They've survived 17 years.

S

 

[wizer]

Pic please Steve!

Most of my timber is on Super shelving and apart from an incident caused by a dodgy wall plug, they've held up very well for the past 3yrs.

There is a method that I saw in a FWW article where they use plywood gussets (brilliant word) to strengthen the timber brackets. If I had a very heavy load, then this is the way I'd go.

 

[ondablade]

A handy option might be to go for a fairly deep section batten (say 75X75 or even a bit deeper) attached to the wall. Bore it for some fairly heavy wall thickness 1 1/2 in zinc plated gun barrel pipe (e.g. sched 40 in US speakhttp://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ ... d_305.html) to make the horizontals - you can tip the angle up a degree or two.

A spot of epoxy will hold them in.

Fix it to the wall with some expanding studs: http://www.tfmsuperstore.co.uk/product. ... LLs1A6FD98

Like Wizer i've not had much luck with rawlplugs or hammer fixings in this sort of stuff....

 

[Sportique]

Thanks all for the ideas so far.

I have some lengths of studding that I would like to use up rather than buy in anything - another SWMBO muttering about stacks of timber ......

Steve - that sounds very interesting - like Wizer said - pic or sketch please. I "think" I can visualise what you mean but a sketch would help. :?

Yes, I was concerned about the braces getting in the way - hence the post!

Please keep the ideas coming

Dave

 

[9fingers]

Don't forget you can put 5 brackets on 450mm centres giving better support to the wood (300mm overhang at each end).

Bob

 

[Sportique]

9fingers - brilliant =D> =D> :lol:

Dave

 

[9fingers]

Eye Thank Kew!

It is a variation on the old classic fence post and fence panel calculation trap!

Bob

 

[Steve Maskery]

Each upright is made as a sandwich. The interruptions allow me to insert the bearers. The uprights stand on the floor so that the wall is not just taking a shear force.

Sometimes it scares me just how much weight is up there.....

Cheers
Steve

 

[Sportique]

Steve

Thanks for the pics - this is what I will do, together with 9fingers suggestion for spacing!!

What a great forum you people have, such a wealth of experience and skill

Dave

 

[Mr Ed]

I like that solution Steve. Might be nicking that one when I get round to it.

Ed

 

[The Bear]

Steve

Do you get any sag from the bearers ? Are they angled upwards at all?

Mark

 

[wizer]

Thanks Steve. That's how I imagined what you explained. Good idea.

 

[OPJ]

Thanks, Steve, that looks brilliant - I've been meaning to ask you more about that for ages!

Has the same design been featured in one of the American magazines?

 

[ByronBlack]

I'd go with Steve's solution - dirt cheap and sturdy. I made the mistake of buying the metal shelving system from B&Q - cost a fortune! It's sturdy enough, but nowhere near as useful as a 2x4 solution.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Mark
I don't get any sag. The bearers are pointed up just a degree or two.

OPJ
Almost certainly! I can't recall exactly where I saw it, but it was probably in FWW (probably several dozen times - talk about recycling!)

S

 

[chris_d]

In a bid to save wood and possibly lower cost, I suggest that provided that every 'packer' within each column lamination is fixed to the wall then the outer elements of each column lamination could be made from OSB strips or thinner wood stock. This assumes that the outer elements are glued/screwed to each packer and that during use you will not apply much horizontal force along the 'plane' formed by the columns as the thinner outer elements offer less resistance to a twisting force.

Although total cost is probably most heavily influenced by the cost:strength ratio [and hence number] of the chosen wall fixings. My suggestion is based on the observation that the outer elements of each column lamination carry virtually no vertical load if the packers themselves are fixed to the wall. However, as Steve expertly pointed out, this would increase the shear force on the fixings since there would be less bearing on the floor and fewer fixing points (hence more load per fixing).

HTH,
C

 

[Vinny]

Little bit "after the horse has bolted" but....

I did pretty much as was originally posted, like steves idea though - one for the future methinks

vinny

 

[Sportique]

In a bid to save wood and possibly lower cost, I suggest that provided that every 'packer' within each column lamination is fixed to the wall then the outer elements of each column lamination could be made from OSB strips or thinner wood stock. This assumes that the outer elements are glued/screwed to each packer and that during use you will not apply much horizontal force along the 'plane' formed by the columns as the thinner outer elements offer less resistance to a twisting force.

Although total cost is probably most heavily influenced by the cost:strength ratio [and hence number] of the chosen wall fixings. My suggestion is based on the observation that the outer elements of each column lamination carry virtually no vertical load if the packers themselves are fixed to the wall. However, as Steve expertly pointed out, this would increase the shear force on the fixings since there would be less bearing on the floor and fewer fixing points (hence more load per fixing).

HTH,
C

Chris - some interesting ideas in there - thanks - keeps the grey matter from seizing up :lol: :lol:

Dave