The Wood from Hell

[woodbloke]

Good to see that somebody can do something with it.
Nicely done Matthew...I've got plenty more if you want to swap for somat :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[WellsWood]

Oh Gawd Matthew, you would have to sharpen that iron using one of those honing guides - you'll start him off again and we'll never hear the end of it :roll: :wink:

Nice watching the Cliffie see off the yanks though, how steep was that back bevel?

 

[jimi43]

AND...using the dreaded Clifton two part cap iron...shame on you...don'tcha know those things are useless! :wink:

Is that Camelia Oil on your films?

Nice video mate....since I am not party to the story of the "wood from hell" what is it again Rob?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Great clip, Matthew 8) The only other tool that we found would work on that timber was my Veritas #80-style scraper that we tried out down at Pete's (Newt's) place

But I think I prefer your approach.

I've just started trying out a back bevel on a spare blade in my Clifton #4 1/2 and the results look very promising.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[mike-reid]

matt, i still read the pm you sent me everyday to keep my mind focused and i appreciate the time you took write it.

moving on, in the video you have posted about this bad *** piece o timber, what is it you are honing your iron on, where do i get it and how much will it damage my wallet(really its just scrumpled up notes, cant afford a wallet)??

im using cheap *** w/d paper at the mo along with an inherited oil stone from my dad.

ATB

mike reid

 

[woodbloke]

Oh Gawd Matthew, you would have to sharpen that iron using one of those honing guides - you'll start him off again and we'll never hear the end of it :roll: :wink:

Nice watching the Cliffie see off the yanks though, how steep was that back bevel?

I know my place and will say nothing :-# about that honing system...but it works :wink:
I tried out another lump of the WfH last night using my LA BU smoother. The ep was 50deg and it just about coped with it, leaving a tiny amount of tear out in one or two places, but the edge lasted around 40 seconds :shock:
An ep of 60deg would have it sorted, which is probably what Matthew was using (it may have even been higher) with the back bevel on the Cliffie.
Interestingly, when the LN guy at West Dean had a go with this stuff, he had a complete bench full of different LN planes to choose from. The one he chose was the LN LA jack

Jim - I think it's Indian Laurel which my Grandad gave me years ago...truly evil stuff - Rob

 

[user 4112]

Is the WfH a piece of parquet flooring? Somewhere I've 3 boxes of the stuff and wondered what to do with it.

John

 

[jimi43]

Is the WfH a piece of parquet flooring? Somewhere I've 3 boxes of the stuff and wondered what to do with it.

John

Put it on the floor?

:twisted:

Jim

 

[user 4112]

Jim

:lol: If I do that, SHMBO would put it in a skip, I'd take it out in put it in boxes and we'd start all over again.

John

 

[jimi43]

Jim

:lol: If I do that, SHMBO would put it in a skip, I'd take it out in put it in boxes and we'd start all over again.

John

I bet if you intermix it with oak parquet it would look superb!

Jim

 

[woodbloke]

Is the WfH a piece of parquet flooring? Somewhere I've 3 boxes of the stuff and wondered what to do with it.

John

Can you make 8' boards into parquet flooring? :lol: ...'cos that's how I was given it - Rob

 

[matthewwh]

Cheers guys,

I wouln't fancy planing up a whole floors worth of this stuff that's for sure!

I didn't measure the back bevel angle but I'd guess somewhere around 20-25 degrees giving 65-70 effective pitch.

The honing is on 3M lapping film, it's a bit dearer than wet and dry but once you get used to it it lasts for ages, is more accurate and produces a much more consistant finish.

I've recently switched from Camellia oil to Honerite No.1 to evaluate whether to change it in the kits. It's lighter than camellia, seems to float the swarf away better and leaves a cleaner surface when you come to use the sheets again.

I'm trying out a sample of pumice powder on it now as it's quite porous it seems to be working well and the red gold and black streaks popped out a treat when the oil went on. I'll give it a week or two to harden up and then start the polishing.

 

[David C]

I think that's the same piece of wood which I planed at the Talking Tools event in Oxford.

I used 25 degree back bevel in a L-N 5 1/2.

It is worth mentioning that the shavings must be kept very fine, so the back bevel needs hardly any width. 0.2 to 0.3mm is plenty. This means it is easy to grind away if you don't need it often.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[woodbloke]

I think that's the same piece of wood which I planed at the Talking Tools event in Oxford.

I used 25 degree back bevel in a L-N 5 1/2.

It is worth mentioning that the shavings must be kept very fine, so the back bevel needs hardly any width. 0.2 to 0.3mm is plenty. This means it is easy to grind away if you don't need it often.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

As you're aware David, the stuff won't let you take a big shaving :evil:...a lump of this might find it's way into someone's SS stocking in December :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[devonwoody]

Not for me.

However I recall as a teenager with school woodwork classes the teacher instructing us we were never to turn the depth guide wheel with the cap iron tension on.
Is this different these days?

 

[bugbear]

Not for me.

However I recall as a teenager with school woodwork classes the teacher instructing us we were never to turn the depth guide wheel with the cap iron tension on.
Is this different these days?

Your teacher might have been wrong when you were a teenager!

BugBear

 

[Alf]

Methinks the teacher was making sure some ham-fisted yoof didn't try and depth adjust with the lever cap too tight.

 

[eoinsgaff]

This feels like a stupid question but I'll have a go anyhow.

With an evil wood like that, what would be the difference between the fine finish achieved by matthewwh and one that would be gotten by working up through the grits of sand paper in a very methodical manner?

I'm not much into sanding myself, just curious as to the difference in this instance.

Eoin

 

[David C]

The finish could be very good but getting true square edges and properly flat surfaces??

David Charlesworth

 

[Alf]

With an evil wood like that, what would be the difference between the fine finish achieved by matthewwh and one that would be gotten by working up through the grits of sand paper in a very methodical manner?

In this case? Largely the sense of achievement, I suspect. :wink: