The Great Carlsberg Workshop Construction Project

[carlsberg]

I did nail my rafters to the ridge beam and have had no problems with this system at all.

It just me looking for the easy option every time The thought of being 3.5m up in the air, with a wallowing great 7.3m ridge beam bouncing around while i am trying to hit in 4" nails through it, at the same time trying to keep the rafter perfectly aligned I like the idea of just tapping in 4 square twist nails once the rafter is propped into position via the connector

I have found a website that has some good tips that i may try out should i not be able to get the ridge connectors, its here. Most of it doesn't make sense to me, but i understand the bracket gadget that is clamped to the ridge beam...that looks like it will help alot and speed up the job.

don't know if this is of any help for your ridge beam but you could joint it with a scarfe joint with opposing 'hooks' on, for the life of me I can't think what the name of the joint is called. No doubt someone on here will be able to tell you shortly. This can then be reinforced with a couple of facings either side of the joint.

I noticed the joint on the SU diagram you kindly sent me. I dont think i have the ability to make such a joint and the end result being exactly level....yet again the easy option of using the splice joint metalwork leaps out at me
I was thinking of facing either side of a butt joint, and cross-bolting through...this would have to be between rafters.
I have actually found a place on the web that sells the splice plates, so i may place an order tomorrow...pity they dont also sell the ridge connectors

I am just eager to get the roof on, as easily and painless as possible, so as i can start to make the structure waterproof.

Good luck with the weather for the rest of the build

Thankyou, my fingers are crossed also......although i have got my waterproofs ready for tomorrow

Carlsberg

 

[les chicken]

You do not need those fancy rafter thingys.

Every other rafter each side is put up and screw using 3" decking screws through the beam into the rafter. The other side is screwed at at an angle through the beam into the rafter. If you follow me.

The joint for the ridge beam, cut the beam at 45deg align and use 12mm plywood each side as long as you can between the rafters and glue and screw each side.

This will not move and if you are using ply on the roof will make it solid, check out my thread "not another workshop but"

Les

 

[carlsberg]

Day 12 and 1/2

Started out the day laying out and installing the truss clips onto the walls, to help align the rafters.

Next i bolted down the sole plate using 120mm SS coach bolts, 20 in total around the perimeter.

Then i proceeded to cut up the SS threaded bar and bolt together the separate wall segments. I have not finished all of this yet; there will be 3 connections on each wall; at least one on each joint has been done.

The whole structure is now a lot more rigid, with very little racking. I have clambered all over it while doing some more preservative of the untreated 4x2.

I have also put 2 temporary crossbraces across the roof to keep the side walls exactly at 4000mm apart...to help with installing the rafters this weekend.

I did not get chance to cut the birdsmouth on the rafters today, but i have that job penciled in for friday morning.


The SS threaded rod was really hard to cut, ended up using the angle grinder to cut it, and then chamfering the end to allow the nut to start. The 7 cuts i made has eaten half a cutting disc...i gave up on the hacksaw after 5 mins of cutting and little progress.

The weather stayed brilliant all day, lets hope Friday is as good.

Carlsberg

 

[Barry Burgess]

Carlsberg I thread a nut on before the cut and then thread it over the cut so I do not have to do anything as the nut then works fine - if you know what I mean. With M12 I just use a good hacksaw blade - the grinder takes to long and I have my grinder mounted in a stand
Barry

 

[Shultzy]

Hi carlsberg - I'm enjoying this and all the other workshop threads. Its amazing how many little items one can pick up on when its in writing.

Windows - I know you have already put the window openings in, so this is just for others wanting advice. The bottom of the window opening is dictated by the hight of the workbench you want to put under it. The best way to determine this hight is to stand with a plane in your hand at a comfortable hight and get someone to measure how far its off the floor. You can then decide how high off the bench you want the window sill. I have a back problem so I'm having my bench at 44".

Doors - I don't know what size your doors are but I have decided to make the whole of one end open with two folding doors and a single door. I think with all the insulation the workshop will get very warm in the summer, also it allows getting large pieces in or out more easily.

Electrics - I've noticed you haven't made any allowances for your incoming electric supply. Remember this supply might have to take 32amps (its quite a thick cable) and the cable will have to be buried.

Security - I'm going to make cladded frames hinged under the windows, when folded up put a couple of coach bolts through to the inside with wing nuts on. Its reasonably cheap and it means you can have plastic or acrylic windows.

Wireless Alarms systems are pretty cheap now which you could extend from the house at a later date.

 

[9fingers]

I think with all the insulation the workshop will get very warm in the summer,

Insulation will also help keep the workshop cool in the summer!

Bob

 

[carlsberg]

With M12 I just use a good hacksaw blade

I was using the angle grinder as the hacksaw blades were just blunting very quickly........upon further inspection they said on them 'for cutting soft metal' :roll: I bought some decent blades, and i can cut through the SS M12 like a hot knife through butter.....and it leaves such a clean cut the nuts go on easily
Day 14 update, another £7.00 on more 4" galv round wire nails, bringing the grand total to £2178.50

The ridge beam is joined, erected and all the rafters are securely in place.

I have now fitted tarps to the roof to make it pretty waterproof. Will not have time to work on the project until next weekend.

Pictures again quickly before it went completely dark, but i will post better ones with more detail on how i connected the 2 halves of the ridge beam using some spikey type washers to improve the strength of the joint.


The white 2x4 running vertical and horizontal are just temporary to brace the walls and ridge beam at the correct height/width while i let loose with the hammer.

I have also spent some more time adding in more bolted joints between each wall section....the end result to have each piece bolted 3 times to the next.

I have to say that assembling the roof was one of the most exhausting jobs i have done in a long time. Man-handling all those heavy waterlogged 6x2 lengths of timber around certainly strains every muscle in your body :!: The ridge beam was a very heavy lump, at 7.3m, plus the weight of the joining pieces.

I am looking forward to next weekend to fit the rafter gussets and cross-braces. Then hopefully start some of the cladding to remove what little racking there is.

I've noticed you haven't made any allowances for your incoming electric supply.

That will come later, but its looking like well over 50m of armoured that will be run along the side of the concrete gravel boards on the fence, in some conduit. I am sure that there is a way of running power over this long distance without digging, and still complying with the elec regs. My main concern is getting a completely waterproof sturdy structure before winter, electrics are next years problem

Security - I'm going to make cladded frames hinged under the windows, when folded up put a couple of coach bolts through to the inside with wing nuts on.

This sounds like a good idea, will the shutters be internal or external?


Carlsberg

 

[Shultzy]

The shutters will be on the outside, a bit like a gate turned 90deg anticlockwise, hinged at the bottom with long hinges. 3"x1" bearers lined up with the verticals either side of the windows, one or two in between depending on the size of the window, covered with cladding. Drill right through the end bearers and insert coach bolts and fix on the inside with washer and wingnut. If you don't want them to open fully (ie you have something under the windows, plants etc), drill a hole through one or both of the middle bearers and the beam above the window and insert a length of rope

 

[carlsberg]

Hello,

Managed to do a few more days work on the project. Total days so far is approx 17 full days work.
Costs now stand at £2272.58. I bought some staples to fix the building membrane, 5l of wood preserver to coat the 4x2's. I also bought some batons to use as temporary corner pieces for the cladding. Another £58.60 at Screwfix on SS threaded bar, nuts, washers etc. Finally £13 on some strips of plywood for the rafter gussets.

All the frame is now fully bolted together, the ridge beam joint is complete, and the four 8x1 horizontal rafter crossbraces are now bolted into position. Plywood gussets have yet to be cut and bolted on, also the T+G roofing deck has still to be fitted once the wall cladding is finished.

I made a start on the frame for the decking at the front of the building. I need to set four 4x4 posts into concrete to fix it to the ground....with the frosty weather coming, I need to plan a warmish morning to do it.

I reckon that the job has taken me 2 days extra so far,due to me making up my own bolts etc from the threaded bar. Even when I got the knack, its a slow process especially when using nylock nuts. I would buy proper bolts if I had to do it again!



I used a double layer of the breathable membrane, then applied the log-lap. I managed to get 3 sides upto halfway complete.
I then finished off the wood preservative on the studwork, just before it went dark at 4pm :x

I used a 45mm 15g galv finish nails to attach the cladding, it seems to be pretty solid. Maybe when the cladding is complete, I might snap a chalk line where the vertical studs are, and put a large nail into each peice of loglap, in the centre.

I still have to install the chickenwire on 2 of the sides and the banding to strengthen the wall to floor connection. I can then hopefully finish off all the cladding.

I should get one full days work on the project this weekend, so I will update then if there is a 'shape-change'.

Carlsberg

 

[PowerTool]

Thanks for the update - hope you are starting to see "the light at the end of the tunnel"

Weathers turned a bit nippy,though,hasn't it

Andrew

 

[mailee]

I would definitely put some more nails through the loglap into the uprights Calsberg. Mine are nailed at every upright just to prevent any warping of the lap. Plus it also gives more rigidity to the frame too. :wink: Glad to see you posting again, I am enjoying it mate.

 

[carlsberg]

I used a 45mm 15g galv finish nails to attach the cladding

Whoops, i meant to say I used 2 of those nails at each verticle member ( 1/4 way in from top and bottom of the board) , so each length has approx 20 - 30 nails holding it on.

For piece of mind, I am going to put an extra fastening into the centre of each board on each verticle stud, but at a ater date. Either a decking screw or a larger ringshank galv nail.

Carlsberg

 

[Sandy]

Hey Carlsberg,

When's the next episode coming out?? It's like waiting for the next episode of 24. I can't wait.

I'm not sure if someone hasn't already asked this before, but, as I am thinking of making a workshop in my own garden, I'm toying with the idea of a self build timber shed, or, a brick built one. I was wondering why you specifically chose timber for yours? I'm interested to know if you considered both and why you ultimately chose the methods you did?

Thanks.

Sandy.

 

[carlsberg]

Hi Sandy, you pipped me to the post..

I finally got to do some work on the shed ....work has kept me busy recently. I was hoping to get the roof deck fixed on by end-of-play Monday, but I will be lucky to get the cladding finished. 2 more days working on the project before I go away for week to warmer climates
Progress seems slow...but then again maybe its a slow process :?

DAY 19 & 1/2 ... wet and very windy.

First of all, let me get the financials out of the way..
Total so far is now £2356.09
Bought some more 15g nails for the cladding, had to buy some more treated 4x4 for the ground anchors for the decking part, and some 4x2 treated to be used on the roof overhang.
I also bought some more cement and gravel for the mix to set in the posts.
The four posts that are set in the ground will support the decking. I will also crossbolt the four main 4x4 supports for the veranda roof overhang to them. The concrete is chamfered up around each post, so that water will run off, and not pool around the treated post.


Take a look at these pictures, I am nearly 3/4 way through completing the wall cladding.
Its a real struggle to get the breathable membrane attached to the studs when the wind is howling :roll:



I have made an overhang on the rear gable end to prevent water running down the rear wall, i'll photo that when I have finished cladding it to the top.

I am thinking of using the loglap for the interior cladding, natural pine colour, not the treated colour like the exterior.

I'm toying with the idea of a self build timber shed, or, a brick built one. I was wondering why you specifically chose timber for yours? I'm interested to know if you considered both and why you ultimately chose the methods you did?

I was initially going to buy a log cabin, and then add insulation, and internal cladding. (There is a brilliant time lapse video on the internet of someone building there log cabin from a kit.)

I did plenty of research, and stumbled across lots of people building there own. A member of this forum called Mailee built the same building ( I copied his..) and this inspired me to have a go myself.

I don't think that a brick/block structure was ever considered, i wanted a log-cabin look from the start.

I did consider the foundations and felt that my way of doing it was much easier for me to do, rather than going the whole hog and making a concrete slab foundation.



:?: A quick question about the facia boards . Am I correct in saying that I should fix a beam on the end of the rafters? Then this gets covered over with felt, and then the facia gets attached over the top of the felt? I have struggled to find much information on this.


I will do an update on Monday evening...hopefully fully cladded.

Carlsberg

 

[9fingers]

I will do an update on Monday evening...hopefully fully cladded.

Carlsberg

In the interests of public decency, I hope you will be fully clad when you next address the forum! LOL

Thanks for an interesting thread.

Bob

 

[mailee]

Carlsberg, My build had a runner of timber on the ends of the roof beams with the felt wrapped over and then the facia was set back under the end of the roof beams. This gives the rain a place to drip off or indeed a place for the guttering if you fit it to be mounted so the water run off will hit the gutter. Just wrap the felt around the timber runner and back under onto the beam ends. The facia can then be screwed onto the beam ends and treated or stained. Hope this is of help. :wink:

 

[andys wood shed]

Hey Carlsberg,


I'm not sure if someone hasn't already asked this before, but, as I am thinking of making a workshop in my own garden, I'm toying with the idea of a self build timber shed, or, a brick built one. I was wondering why you specifically chose timber for yours? I'm interested to know if you considered both and why you ultimately chose the methods you did

Sandy
Check with your local council as each one is different. Where I live you are allowed to erect a wooden shed as it is classed as a temporary structure within a permitted size. A brick building would require planning/ building regs. The webb site of your local council might have sufficient information and might save you drawing attention to your workshop :wink:
One thing that may interest you is that pre-cast concrete garages are usually deemed as temporary structures also.

Andy

 

[carlsberg]

Just a quick update,

Day 21 completed.
I managed to get most of the cladding done, and erected the 2 outer posts for the roof overhang. These posts have been braced by the pieces of untreated timber, to keep them perfectly level while the rest of the overhang is assembled.


I also put a temporary fascia board onto the end of the rafters, to enable me to stretch the tarps properly to stop water dripping inside the cabin. Im am quite happy now that no more water will get inside, except what is blown in through the openings.



Also had a good tidy up and re-stacked all remaining timber inside the structure.

No updates now until I return in a weeks time.

Carlsberg

....PS No increase in the running total this time

 

[ByronBlack]

It's looking great Carlsberg!! Nice work all round!

 

[carlsberg]

Hello,
Another long overdue update.

I have been doing the odd few hours here and there, working around the weather mainly.
Total build time is approx 24 long days now, long days
The cost of the project has crept up further, as i bought yet more 4" galv nails, some more gravel to sprinkle underneath the decking area and the decking timber itself.
I also bought 28 metres of 38mm x 175mm treated timber to fix onto the ends of the rafters, and to make the gable overhang on the rear of the structure.
This cost me £197.14 , bringing the total spend so far to £2553.23.

I have finally finished off the front overhang and the four upright posts .
This had me scratching my head lots as I didn't have any sort of plans to follow.

I have managed to get all four posts almost true to the spirit level.
The only mistake is that as you look directly front-on at the roof, the apex of the overhang is over to the left a couple of inches. I don't think it will cause any issues.


I have also attached the timbers to the ends of the rafters, and made the overhang at the rear gable.


The next job is to get the roof T+G fitted, and the cheap felt covering I can find to see it through winter. I am probably going to have a felt shingle roof eventually to make it more attractive.

Weather permitting, I am going to tackle the roof this weekend. I estimate 3 full days to get the T+G attached judging by how long it took to do the floor and allowing for the numerous 'up+down the ladders' :roll:

Carlsberg