The Great Carlsberg Workshop Construction Project

[carlsberg]

Hi,
Not had chance to do any further work on the build, but I eager to continue on Monday.

Could the joists not be supported direct on the pads, even if they needed raising a little higher out of the ground for clearence?

Yes they could, but there is method in my madness.
I located the highest point and made the first footing level with the ground, then built up the other footings to get the same level. It is quite difficult to get all the footings exactly level, but easy to get them roughly level with each other. By 'laying' a block on a bed of mortar on each footing allows you to get a very accurate level across all footings.
The top face of each of my blocks is level in both directions within itself, and of equal level height to all the rest. Using the block allows you to 'fine-tune' each individual footing to get a very even level base.

I also enabled me to place the blocks exactly 4000mm apart on the external faces for the width, so the blocks will be under the timber joists and not stick out.
This also has made it easy to get the timber subfloor exactly square by aligning with the blocks.

I can't help but think that this is a hell of a lot of money to spend on building a workshop.

I estimate I will probably spend £2600 on the whole project; that is totally waterproof, insulated, with full lighting and electrics.
Compared to the price price people pay for a conservatory, I feel that the amount is good value for money for spending on a workshop-for-life. Please take a look at Mailee's workshop pictures ( the workshop I am 'cloning' thanks to him sharing his plans with me ) , I am sure you will agree that for the money, you cannot buy a better building.
Also the enjoyment I am getting out of this build is priceless. I am really very exited about building this, learning every step of the way.

where are you in Southport ?, my daughter lives in Churchtown, as you can see I'm down the road in Liverpool, and I am up in southport quite a bit to see my daughter and the Grand children, I could call in to see you , if you wish

I am in Tarleton just outside of Southport. I have just been helping my freund build his conservatory in kit form. I was a rather large conservatory, 'L-shaped' around one corner of his house.
As of now he owes me 4 days labour , which has already been pencilled in for when I do the roof. Thanks for the kind offer though.

It's a small price to pay considering it;s going to be consideragly bigger, with a bigger headroom - have you noticed how low those sheds are ??

:?: How high should my walls be at the eaves? I really don't have a clue, but I am thinking of somewhere in the region of 2.2m - 2.5m. The horizontal load bearing roof beams are a few inches above the eaves height , which will increase headroom further.

:?: Can anyone advise me on my floor insulation? I have got 50mm polystyrene to be 'hung' between each of the joists. This will allow me 100mm space to put in rockwool for additional sound dampening, if you people think it would be a good idea. Will 50mm of polystyrene be sufficient on its own? Am I correct that rockwool is one of the better insulators of sound, as opposed to fibreglass or the kingspan type boards?

Please don't think I'm criticising. I've never done it myself (yet) and don't have a better idea, I'm just curious.

No critism taken. I honestly want all comments from everyone, to hopefully keep me on the correct track throughout the build.


Next update hopefully Monday evening, with more pictures. I am hoping to get the floor insulation and some of the floorboards down. I must warn everyone that there may be some gloat pictures on Monday evening if the rain keeps away and I bring out the Festool rail saw to cut the insulation boards. If it is raining, i will be cutting them with a handsaw.

Carlsberg.

 

[PowerTool]

Hi there - glad it's all going well,looking forward to the next lot of pictures
You will have plenty of height with 2.2m+ (mine is 2metres/6'6" at it's lowest) - you just need to take account of where your light fittings will be,and leave enough headroom under them;anything above that level is just extra storage space.
And I believe you are right in that rockwool is supposed to be better for noise suppression.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

Andrew

 

[carlsberg]

Day 7 update.....( i think its day 7, lost track :? )

Spent lots of time moving the wood around to get it better ventilated and undercover.
I then fitted all the 50mm polystyrene insulation in between all the floor joists. This was totally boring, cutting and fitting all 36 pieces. I was glad when i fitted the final piece.
It is very hard work even though the stuff is very light, due to being bent over all the time.



I then managed to put down almost a quarter of the floorboards before it got dark ( pictures to be taken in daylight!!)

Everything is back under the tarpaulins until tomorrow......rain is forecast, so I may have to spend the time cutting the 4x2 to size for the studwork.

Carlsberg

 

[mailee]

Really enjoying the build Carlsberg keep up the good work. Praying for fair weather for you. :wink:

 

[dedee]

Carlsberg,

How is that polysterene supported?

Andy

 

[carlsberg]

How is that polysterene supported?

Some 4" galv nails into the joists, 50mm below the top level so the polystyrene sits flush with the top. I also used up some plastic clips that i had, although they probably are not needed.

I managed to get mosts of the floorboards down today, just 5 more board runs to go
I got drenched with all the rain, hopefully friday will be a better day so i can finish the floor and install the chicken-wire around the perimeter.

Forgot to take a picture before i covered everything over with tarps.... i will have the camera ready and waiting on Friday.

Carlsberg

 

[wizer]

are you building the walls on top of the floor boards?

 

[carlsberg]

are you building the walls on top of the floor boards?

Yes. I couldn't think of a reason to justify the extra work of installing battens around the perimeter to allow me to lay the floor 4" in from each side.

The floorboards are pressure treated, so should last the life of the structure as it has plenty of airflow to keep the floor structure dry.
Should i ever have to remove any, i can always cut them and install battens to replace them.

The sound insulation of the floor is still niggling me. I don't want excess noise emanating from the workshop, but there was no way I could incorporate any sound dampening insulation into the raised wooden flooring. The reason being was that the sound insulation (rockwool) i was looking at using absorbs water which is bad for the structure.

All i have by way of insulation is 50mm polystyrene, and a few inches of air below it.

In the future, if noise becomes an issue, i will place a floating floor within, laid on a bed of sound dampening material.
I am going to increase the headroom when i start the studwork, to accommodate this should it be necassary.

As always, please halt me in my tracks if i am on the wrong path.

Carlsberg

 

[ByronBlack]

Carlsberg, while your currently doing the floor, it might make sense to build up the floor with the sound-proofing at this stage rather than later? In hindsight, I wish I did this with mine, but I don't want to now compromise the headroom.

I will have the rockwool in the walls though. Great thread by the way, nice to see another workshop thread and all the little differences, makes me want to start another one!

 

[Johnboy]

I used 8x2 floor joists, nailed some battens 4" down and laid some 1/4" wpb ply on these and then 4" fibreglass with 18mm T & G moisture resistant chipboard flooring on top. Never thought about the insulation absorbing water, there is a free flow of air under the workshop so I hope it wont be a problem. After 5 years I havn't fallen through the floor yet so hope it will be OK. :lol:

John

 

[carlsberg]

:?: help required.

I am currently planning out 4x2 layout for the stud walls.... Can anyone please tell me the heights that the windows should be?

How high above floor level should the windows be, and what vertical size should the windows be themselves? Please don't tell me it is upto me :? ...i really don't have a clue.

There will be 2 windows on the front side, one either side of the door, and 2 windows on the left hand wall. On the right hand side, I am thinking of installing some high level glass blocks at a high level to let in some of the late afternoon/evening sunlight.

I used 8x2 floor joists, nailed some battens 4" down and laid some 1/4" wpb ply on these and then 4" fibreglass with 18mm T & G moisture resistant chipboard flooring on top. Never thought about the insulation absorbing water, there is a free flow of air under the workshop so I hope it wont be a problem. After 5 years I havn't fallen through the floor yet so hope it will be OK.

I was going to lay 100mm rockwool on top of the 50mm polystyrene, underneath the T+G. I am glad i never, as with the rain we had, i would have had 21 square metres of saturated rockwool :shock: at 100mm thick, that is over 2 tons of water soaked into it... surely would have taken forever to dry out once sealed in by the polystyrene and T+G.
I will wait until the structure is fully waterproof before thinking about using any rockwool.

With the days coming and going faster than ever, I have to work on the project no matter what the weather. I need to be fully waterproof before work is halted by really bad/cold weather.

I have a full day on the project tomorrow, pics to follow.

Carlsberg

 

[PowerTool]

Think the height of your windows affects what materials you can use to glaze them (from memory - which is often hazy,so please check elsewhere :lol: - anything below 3' from floor level needs to be safety glass.)


Andrew

 

[mailee]

I don't know if this is any help but I sited my windows level with the RAS table so that I could if need arises open them up for l.o.n.g lenghts. Roughly about 3' 6" from the floor on my build. :wink:

 

[carlsberg]

I don't know if this is any help but I sited my windows level with the RAS table so that I could if need arises open them up for l.o.n.g lenghts. Roughly about 3' 6" from the floor on my build.

Thanks Mailee, thats the same height as my house, so i will make the openings in the studwork 3' 4" to allow for the window frame thickness.
Could you please tell me the actual dimensions of the window frames, and of your door openings? I have a friend who makes window frames, i am going to see if he can make me some...just wondering if you can buy double glazed units in any size :?:


I accomplished lots today, finished the floor, and assembled the studwork for the back wall and right hand wall ( looking at the structure.)
The floor structure has plenty of moisture absorbed in it from the flood type weather the other day....the surface seems dry, but laying down my paper plans on the floor resulted in them becoming all damp. The tarps are now over the stud walls, so plenty of airflow to allow it to breath and dry i hope.

Some pictures..
Tarps just taken off, as you can see, lots of water on the project due to me working the other day during the torrential downpour we had. 3/4 of the floorboards down. Since it is now dry, i can use the compressor and nailgun which makes the job significantly easier. The slowest part of the job is still clamping the boards together before nailing.

All floorboards laid. Since most of them were done in the rain, i didn't cut them to size, but let them overhang. I have screwed a board down offset from the edge to allow me to trim them flush with the joist with my scary, loud,cheap B+Q circular saw.

A nice flush cut, carried out on 3 of the sides. On the remaining side, there is just the 'tongue' sticking out, which I will hand plane flush once the studwork is erected.

All cut edges throughout the project have been sealed with end-grain treatment. It seems to be spirit based so the end-grain soaks it up well.

The rear wall studwork being assembled. The air nailer works flawlessly with the '90mm ring shanked hot dipped galvanized plastic collated nails :!: ' When laying the floorboards with the 50mm versions of said nails, i was having lots of problems with the firing pin not fully returning to allow the next nail to move into position. I plan to remedy when doing the sheathing by reducing the depth adjustment, but applying more pressure on the nailer. This seemed to work on the last few floorboards i laid.

Half of the side frame completed, i then finished the second half. I can manage to manoeuvre the 4m back wall single handed, which is a bonus. For once I could finish the job early...still have not designed the layout/sizes for the dors and window openings on the other 2 sides.

Sunday i intend to apply 2 coats of wood preserver to the studwork and erect the 2 sides. ( the only timber not pressure treated, but it is totally covered up by the vapour barrier on the inside, and the breathable membrane on the outer). Then i hope to make the other 2 sides and paint/assemble those also. That will give me the 4 sides complete, ready to start on the roof structure.

I hope you all enjoy the pictures, Sunday evening i will post some good 'shape-change' pictures hopefully

This was day 9, and more money spent on the HDG collated nails. Running total now stands at £2039.10.
Apart from the odd bit of timber, all i need to buy to complete the project is the vapour barrier for inside, the internal cladding and the roof covering. I think i have all the materials for the electrics already, if not my electrician friend will :lol:

I may well be able to complete this project within the £2600 budget i put to one side.

Carlsberg

 

[mailee]

Hi Carlsberg. Two windows on the side are 4' wide X 3' high, The front windows are 3' wide X 3' high, the rear one which is Plexiglass is 3' wide X 2' high and the door opening is 6' X 4'. You can buy double glazed units made up to your own size as this is what I did with mine. Not too bad price wise either as I ordered 6 panels and it cost me £80. hope this is of help to you mate. :wink:

 

[carlsberg]

Here is the Day 10 update, only £5.88 spent today on Creosote Substitute, total so far is £2044.98

All 4 walls are now vertical , all of tomorrow will probably be spent adding noggings to the structure .

I used the creosote substitute on the underside of each stud wall, where it rests on the floor.

Sorry for the rest of the pictures, darkness started to creep in at 18:00 :shock:



You can see my mistake on one of the window openings, i fitted it underneath the line i marked, not above. I have put another piece on top of this to achieve the correct height.

The weather has stayed good, and tomorrow should be dry also.

Once the noggings are installed, i may attempt putting up the ridge beam, and attach the rafters. That all depends on how stable the structure is, otherwise i will commence the cladding from the bottom up.

Carlsberg

 

[wizer]

That looks great, your picking up speed now


Proper Job, as they say.

 

[carlsberg]

Todays update, lets call this day 11 and 1/2,
I spent yesterday fitting all the noggings, and i spent a few hours on the project today cutting the ends of the rafters, just have to cut the bird-mouth next.

I have bought some truss clips to attach the bottom of each rafter onto the side walls, some stainless steel threaded rod, SS 120mm coach bolts, large square washers and SS nylock nuts.
Tomorrow I can bolt all the frame securely together, and remove the clamps that are currently holding the sidewalls to each other.

I need to purchase 2 more items of hardware, of which i am having great difficulty locating.
To attach the rafters to the ridge beam, i need these, but i cannot find anyone who has them ( not even online). If i cannot get these, it will make the job of securing the rafters to the ridge beam more difficult.
I have emailed them and asked for my local stockists. I really need them by weekend, or i will have to do it the hard way and nail the rafters to the ridge beam

The second piece of hardware i need are these ( 4 of them for 1 joint). This is because i could not get a 7.3m length of 6x2. If i cannot source these before weekend, i will have to join the ridge beam between the rafters using another method :x

My roof pitch is going to be 20.5 degrees, quite low angle, which is why i am putting lots of effort in trying to do ensure it is strong and secure.
Having done some google research, i have found out about the effects of wind over pitched roofs......there are uplift forces that try to lift the roof as the wind passes over :shock: I am probably just being over cautious as per usual, but i found myself securing the studwork with galvanized banding today..to be on the 'safe side'.

For the extra cost of using stainless steel instead of galvanized bolts etc the total cost so far has gone up to £2171.50.

Items still needed to buy are interior vapour barrier, insulation and cladding. Also doors and windows. It will be interesting to see if i can keep within my budget :lol:

I hope people are still finding this project interesting, i am enjoying it thoroughly, just a bit apprehensive of attempting the roof without the rafter connectors.

Next update at the weekend when hopefully there will be another 'shape-change' on the project.

Carlsberg

 

[PowerTool]

I hope people are still finding this project interesting,

Oh yes,without doubt
It's great to follow someone else building a workshop,as sometimes you see some good ideas you can use in your own shop;however,sometimes you see things you kick yourself for not doing in your own..
It's also nice to be able to follow how the budget is doing,down to the penny.

Good luck with the weather for the rest of the build [-o<

Andrew

 

[mailee]

I don't know if this is of any help for your ridge beam but you could joint it with a scarfe joint with opposing 'hooks' on, for the life of me I can't think what the name of the joint is called. No doubt someone on here will be able to tell you shortly. This can then be reinforced with a couple of facings either side of the joint. If I remember correctly Tommy Walsh used the same joint on his 'Ultimate workshop build' I did nail my rafters to the ridge beam and have had no problems with this system at all. Once the crossbracing is in place on the rafters they act like clamps onto the ridge beam anyway. Just a thought for you. :wink: