Started the workshop at last

[garywayne]

Hi everyone.

Its been a while, but I have been quite busy the last few months.

As the heading says. I have started the workshop with the help of Sheela (the wife to those who don't know).

So far we have a concrete base 10M X 3M with a 2M X 3M hard standing at the front. We are building the walls in 2440mm (8ft) square sections. The four frames that will be next to the garden fence have been built apart from the noggins. The four frames with the windows, on the opposite wall have been partially built awaiting windows. So far we have built 9 roof trusses. All out of 2" x 4" (47mm x 100mm) pressure treated timber.

I am about to make my next order. I have a query on the roofing.
On the rafters I was thinking of using a breathable membrane, then 18mm OSB, and covered with Wicks felt shingles.
Should there be anything in-between the OSB and the shingles?

If I can remember how, I will post some pics later.

It's nice to be back. I hope you are all well, and had a good crimbo and new year. Talk to you soon.

ATB Gary.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Gary,

Good to see you back and that you've got the workshop started.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Waka]

Gary

Nice tosee another workshop build coming along. Lets have the pictorial evidence.

 

[OLD]

'breathable membrane, then 18mm OSB, and covered with Wicks felt shingles'
Should be osb, breathable membrane then shingles .So that water vapour passes through osb and membrane then dissipates around the shingles.

 

[garywayne]

Hi Paul. Thanks for the welcome back. It's good to see you to.

Waka. I was hoping to put up some pics today, just to prove to you that I am actually doing something. :lol: :lol: Unfortunately, since returning from holiday I have mislaid the camera to pc cable. Will have pics up on Monday.

Old.
I am so grateful that you put me right with the sequence of materials. The complete roof construction will go something like this:-
1) Internal roof paneling - 12mm OSB.
2) Vapour barrier.
3) Insulation within framework.
4) 18mm OSB.
5) Breathable membrane.
6) Felt shingles.

Through the summer months the shingles become tacky and stick together. So I have read. I have one concern. With the felt shingles next to the breathable membrane, wont the shingles adhere to the membrane and restrict it from doing what it is meant to do?

It's nice to be back.
ATB Gary.

 

[garywayne]

Hi.

Here are the pics I mentioned.

The first is a concrete base 3M X 10M with a 2M X 3M hard standing, which is in the process of being layed.

This is just some of the timber.

This is the first wall frame. The side walls are being constructed with four 8' X 8' frames each side.

This picture shows the panels of the two side walls complete, except for the noggins and windows. Also Sheela working on a roof truss.

In this pic I have snuck into the conservatory due to dodgy weather. Still working on roof trusses.

After a full day employment, Sheela makes us a cuppa, then straight to work on, yes, more roof trusses.

Here I am just showing that all the freshly cut timber in being treated with wood preserve.

Yesterday we started on the back wall, cutting the tenons. Work had to stop for a day or two due to an accident with a hand saw. Now I have a saw hand.

ATB Gary.

 

[OPJ]

Looks like you're making very good progress. Hope your hand isn't too bad as I think the weather's due to change over the next few days. :shock:

Are you cutting the trusses before you've fixed the walls, just out of interest?

Oh, and it's actually noggings, by the way. :wink:

 

[garywayne]

Hi Olly.

Cor, you sound just like me mum. :lol: Thanks for pointing that out though. :wink:

Are you cutting the trusses before you've fixed the walls, just out of interest?

Yes. My reasoning for making the trusses before erecting the walls is to keep the tops of the walls the same spacing to the bottom. Plus, once i've built all the parts I can erect the whole thing in one go. [-o<

I am still unable to use the hand as it just opens up again. Looking on the good side, I have the most keen wife anybody could hope for. She comes home from work, I explain, she does.

Thanks for your interest.

 

[garywayne]

If I have a 5 feet opening in my workshop with two 30 in. doors, what would your recommendation for hinges be?

The doors are going to be built the same way as the walls. From the inside out:-

1) 18mm ply/OSB.
2) Vapour barrier.
3) Insulation within a 4x2 framework.
4) Breathable membrane.
5) Shiplap/T&G.

 

[garywayne]

OK. A bit short on answers. Might as well call it a day then. :?

 

[motownmartin]

OK. A bit short on answers. Might as well call it a day then. :?

Try starting a thread entitled Door hinges and you'll still get no answers :lol: seriously though you will get a response from someone

 

[Adam]

If I have a 5 feet opening in my workshop with two 30 in. doors, what would your recommendation for hinges be?

Big ones. That sounds heavy. I bought some gate hinges from Wickes. See here (make sure you get captive ones so someone can't simply lift the doors off). I modified a few coach bolts to really secure them right through the frame. (for some reason the holes weren't big enough to accept 6mm coachbolts.)

I went for 4, as I wanted to be able to have a split "stable" style door. Which is more obvious from this: (I've already made the cut)

Adam

 

[garywayne]

Would have been in touch earlier, but have been away.

A bit late but, thanks Martin. :wink:

Adam, good looking w/shop.
Those hinges look just the job. cheers Adam.

 

[garywayne]

I have built the roof trusses like this, but without the orange uprights:-

[/img]

When it comes to cladding the outside I realise that the span from side to side is to long.
If I insert where the orange bit are, would that be enough?

Another thought I have had is instead of cutting the roofing ply to size, is to build a overhang a bit like this:-

With an overhang of just over 1M, would I need the middle truss, or could I do without it?

All comments gratefully received.

 

[garywayne]

Hi all.

I have all the cladding coming later in the week, which is un-treated. I was wondering what you would recommend to treat the wood with, to protect from the weather.

One other thing.
I have bought some polythene tape for the waterproof membrane joints. Should I use tape for the breathable membrane joints? If so, what should be used?

 

[Shultzy]

I used a wood preservative from Wickes, available from other outlets as well.

 

[OLD]

No tape required just correct overlaps fix with staples.

 

[garywayne]

Thanks Shultzy.

I have used Wickes's fence preserve/stain, and to be honest, I thought it was cr@p. If you are recommending there wood preserve I take it it is a different solution.
Do you remember if it has a guarantee? If so, how long? I believe Cuprinol has a 5 year guarantee.

Old.

Thanks for your reply. If there was no reply I would have taped the joints.

One other thing. Earlyer in the thread you recommended that I lay the felt shingles over the breathable membrane.
Wont the stickiness of the shingles prevent the membrane from breathing?

I will put up some more pictures, but I keep forgetting to take them.

 

[OLD]

My understanding of felt shingles is that they are nailed and any stickiness is to hold the tabs down, so tab is stuck to shingle under not the background.This allows the breathing to dissipate out from under the shingles.

 

[Shultzy]

This is what I've used 2 coats and it's been ok for 3 years.

link