Staining 'oak' filler

[johnbb99]

I've been re-using some previously used oak (another item of furniture) and it has some nail holes, etc to be filled.
Ive bought (at surprising cost) two tubs of filler labelled 'Oak', but they both are too light. Even for my light oak.

You can see the filler is almost white. Beech benchtop, mirka sanding sheet and cork for colour reference.
What would anyone who has been in this situation use to darken the filler? I don't expect it to disappear - this isn't my expectation or requirement, but I would like it to colour and shade match.
(And how come these two big names have got it so wrong? I doubt any oak exists that's significantly paler than what I'm working with. )

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Yours looks like it’s sun bleached. Do you have enough off cuts to make some pegs to fill the nail holes.
I would not use filler, I cut pegs/dowels and lined up the grain to plug nail holes in recycled wood.

 

[johnbb99]

Maybe the camera is lying - it's why I included other familiar objects, but this is a fresh surface that has never seen the sun. It is sanded, however.
Thanks for the idea of cutting in matching bits. Possible, but there are very many holes, mostly 1-2mm.
I've tried mixing some of the sawdust from this wood with a very little PVA, but that comes out too dark, even when dry!
Might very strong (UK) tea stain the filler effectively?

 

[Bingy man]

I’ve had moderate success in the past using powder filler ( just add water type ) and water based wood stain . I just substitute the water for stain . Toupret do a wood colour powder filler that might work better than the white powder ..

tomorrow

Toupret Wood Repair Filler Natural Wood 1kg (224HE)
£10.99
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...g4vekNqJAxXiQfEDHWQkINMQzzkoAHoECAcQEw&adurl=
Screwfix.com

 

[Fergie 307]

I would be cautious trying to get a match at this stage on bare wood. If it is going to be finished then the finish will alter the colour, almost invariably making it darker. Better IMO to put a bit of finish on so you establish the colour, then fill and tint to match.

 

[johnbb99]

But isn't the finish likely to darken the filler as much as the oak?

 

[Bumble]

But isn't the finish likely to darken the filler as much as the oak?

I've been struggling with this problem for a couple of years and still finding it just as difficult. I have found that finishes will colour the (wood) oak much differently to the filler and so have found that finish then fill and tint works better for me. The best hide is a set of paints and a model making size paint brush, a big lens, light and time.

 

[Cabinetman]

I have only ever used the Everbuild filler, very little on each piece made but sometimes it is needed. Nearly always on Oak and can’t say I’ve really had a problem. I think it blends in much better with a finish on top. Sometimes on darker Oak I have mixed in a little of the Mahogany one they make with the light Oak one to colour it a bit.
I would suggest you dab a bit of the finish just on that small area and see how it looks.
Ian

 

[Fergie 307]

But isn't the finish likely to darken the filler as much as the oak?

Problem is the filler and the wood will likely behave quite differently. So if you match the bare wood then once you finish it the filler will probably look a completely different colour.

 

[Doug71]

How about wax filler sticks, you use them after everything is finished and can mix them to whatever shade you need, great for pin holes etc.

Example here

https://www.toolstation.com/briwax-wax-repair-sticks/p62562

 

[Rewby]

I carry 3 tubs of the Everbuild filler on the van.Light oak, Oak and Mahogany incase of pin holes etc and mix them in various ratios to suit. You want to be looking for it to blend in when it is finished,not a match for the bare timber as has been said.
I use different mixes/ratios even on the same piece of timber to blend it in.

 

[Fergie 307]

How about wax filler sticks, you use them after everything is finished and can mix them to whatever shade you need, great for pin holes etc.

Example here

https://www.toolstation.com/briwax-wax-repair-sticks/p62562

Very good. I use hard wax all the time for repairs to clock cases. Old style electric soldering iron is good for applying.

 

[kinverkid]

I would also go with the filler sticks. The wax will not change colour when the finish is applied. Otherwise, fill some holes in a matching scrap piece and paint the filler with different shades of acrylic paint then apply your chosen finish remembering each 'mix' for each shade. Once the finish has cured you will see which one matches the surrounding surface. You can see why I go with wax filler sticks.

 

[stuckinthemud]

it can be better to match to the colour of the knots, so the filler looks like a pin knot. If it can’t be completely hidden, hide it in plain sight

 

[Fergie 307]

I would also go with the filler sticks. The wax will not change colour when the finish is applied. Otherwise, fill some holes in a matching scrap piece and paint the filler with different shades of acrylic paint then apply your chosen finish remembering each 'mix' for each shade. Once the finish has cured you will see which one matches the surrounding surface. You can see why I go with wax filler sticks.

Wax is great because it will accept other finishes.
For filling a small section of missing veneer in mahogany for example. Mix the wax to match the base colour of the finished wood then the characteristic black flecks can be added with paint, or sometimes a Rotring type pen.
The beauty of the wax is that it won't be affected by your paint or ink solvent. If you are not happy with the effect you have got, you can just wipe it off the wax and start again.
You can also imitate open grain using a needle or similar to scratch the surface.
Once you are happy then a further coat of finish over the top.
With a bit of practice you can achieve a result that is practically invisible.

 

[Windows]

Texture of wax fill is key to creating unobtrusive patches in my experience. If you melt the wax so that you have a large shiny flat surface, this attracts the eye more than hand-applied wax with an uneven surface. Try to match the texture of natural wood or knots if possible which can sometimes be done simply by softening the wax with hand heat and shoving it in the holes without melting or excessive smoothing.

 

[Bingy man]

Weird that wax will accept other finishes, in my limited experience filling holes in wood I’d of thought that it would be like painting silicone.. living and learning

 

[Chrispy]

A small amount of earth pigment like brown umber or vandyke mixed into your filler will work.
Could even try the kids powder paints.

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

To make wax soft, I work it in my hands until I can use it to fill holes etc

 

[Fergie 307]

Weird that wax will accept other finishes, in my limited experience filling holes in wood I’d of thought that it would be like painting silicone.. living and learning

I am talking about the hard wax, that comes in solid sticks.
I use the humbrol brand model makers paint which is oil based. Comes in a massive variety of colours so easy to get a very good match.
I dare say you might have problems using a water based paint.