Staining 'oak' filler

[johnbb99]

I've been re-using some previously used oak (another item of furniture) and it has some nail holes, etc to be filled.
Ive bought (at surprising cost) two tubs of filler labelled 'Oak', but they both are too light. Even for my light oak.

You can see the filler is almost white. Beech benchtop, mirka sanding sheet and cork for colour reference.
What would anyone who has been in this situation use to darken the filler? I don't expect it to disappear - this isn't my expectation or requirement, but I would like it to colour and shade match.
(And how come these two big names have got it so wrong? I doubt any oak exists that's significantly paler than what I'm working with. )

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Yours looks like it’s sun bleached. Do you have enough off cuts to make some pegs to fill the nail holes.
I would not use filler, I cut pegs/dowels and lined up the grain to plug nail holes in recycled wood.

 

[johnbb99]

Maybe the camera is lying - it's why I included other familiar objects, but this is a fresh surface that has never seen the sun. It is sanded, however.
Thanks for the idea of cutting in matching bits. Possible, but there are very many holes, mostly 1-2mm.
I've tried mixing some of the sawdust from this wood with a very little PVA, but that comes out too dark, even when dry!
Might very strong (UK) tea stain the filler effectively?

 

[Bingy man]

I’ve had moderate success in the past using powder filler ( just add water type ) and water based wood stain . I just substitute the water for stain . Toupret do a wood colour powder filler that might work better than the white powder ..

tomorrow

Toupret Wood Repair Filler Natural Wood 1kg (224HE)
£10.99
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...g4vekNqJAxXiQfEDHWQkINMQzzkoAHoECAcQEw&adurl=
Screwfix.com

 

[Fergie 307]

I would be cautious trying to get a match at this stage on bare wood. If it is going to be finished then the finish will alter the colour, almost invariably making it darker. Better IMO to put a bit of finish on so you establish the colour, then fill and tint to match.

 

[johnbb99]

But isn't the finish likely to darken the filler as much as the oak?

 

[Bumble]

But isn't the finish likely to darken the filler as much as the oak?

I've been struggling with this problem for a couple of years and still finding it just as difficult. I have found that finishes will colour the (wood) oak much differently to the filler and so have found that finish then fill and tint works better for me. The best hide is a set of paints and a model making size paint brush, a big lens, light and time.

 

[Cabinetman]

I have only ever used the Everbuild filler, very little on each piece made but sometimes it is needed. Nearly always on Oak and can’t say I’ve really had a problem. I think it blends in much better with a finish on top. Sometimes on darker Oak I have mixed in a little of the Mahogany one they make with the light Oak one to colour it a bit.
I would suggest you dab a bit of the finish just on that small area and see how it looks.
Ian

 

[Fergie 307]

But isn't the finish likely to darken the filler as much as the oak?

Problem is the filler and the wood will likely behave quite differently. So if you match the bare wood then once you finish it the filler will probably look a completely different colour.

 

[Doug71]

How about wax filler sticks, you use them after everything is finished and can mix them to whatever shade you need, great for pin holes etc.

Example here

https://www.toolstation.com/briwax-wax-repair-sticks/p62562

 

[Rewby]

I carry 3 tubs of the Everbuild filler on the van.Light oak, Oak and Mahogany incase of pin holes etc and mix them in various ratios to suit. You want to be looking for it to blend in when it is finished,not a match for the bare timber as has been said.
I use different mixes/ratios even on the same piece of timber to blend it in.