Sourcing Wooden Windows: Thermal Efficiency & Quality

[Dibs-h]

As I stated earlier - I don't see any issues with fully bedded DG units in timber frames as long as they are done correctly, using quality materials.

I appreciate folk may feel differently.

Dibs

Dibs, sorry to be so stupid, but what do you mean by that? What is 'fully bedded'?
Austin

Austin

If you click on the following link,

http://www.hodgsonsealants.com/techlibdoc.php?p=5

and then on "View Specification Clause" you should get a PDF. In essence "fully bedded" is the edge of the unit sat on rubber blocks on underneath the bottom edge (and ones on the side if an opener) and the void between the unit and frame, fully filled with sealant.

The down as above - should fill in the gaps, so to speak. If not ask. :wink:

HIH

Dibs

 

[Austin Branson]

As I stated earlier - I don't see any issues with fully bedded DG units in timber frames as long as they are done correctly, using quality materials.

I appreciate folk may feel differently.

Dibs

Dibs, sorry to be so stupid, but what do you mean by that? What is 'fully bedded'?
Austin

Austin

If you click on the following link,

http://www.hodgsonsealants.com/techlibdoc.php?p=5

and then on "View Specification Clause" you should get a PDF. In essence "fully bedded" is the edge of the unit sat on rubber blocks on underneath the bottom edge (and ones on the side if an opener) and the void between the unit and frame, fully filled with sealant.

The down as above - should fill in the gaps, so to speak. If not ask. :wink:

HIH

Dibs

Thanks, Dibs, I think I understand. Are all these bits and pieces (locator blocks, setting blocks , tape and sealant) readily available?
Austin

 

[Dusty]

I use both Jeldwen and Premdoor , same company and designs , just depends on where you shop . I have always been pleased with the windows for the cost . The only thing I would say is to get them with out glazing for two reasons 1) It is alot cheaper to get it from a glazing company , probably about 40% of the supplied by window company cost , and 2) If your windows have fixed lights then you cant fix the frames in the depth of the glazing area . The catalogue price for 22 or 24mm units was nearly £150 per window and I got them from the glazing firm for about £60 .

I recently had 6 from Jeldwen and even though it did not show an "unglazed" option my B/M phoned them and got that sorted , and also they do not offer traditional glazing bars but now supply stick on glazing bars that looks pants on cottage style windows , They were only to happy to supply them with out glass and with the traditional glazing bars .

Kind regards Dusty

 

[Dibs-h]

Thanks, Dibs, I think I understand. Are all these bits and pieces (locator blocks, setting blocks , tape and sealant) readily available?
Austin

Hi Austin

Sealant - yes. In the past for glass that is not self cleaning, I've used,

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/index.php?ro ... oduct_id=7

readily available.

Tape - any proper glazing merchant should have some. Failing that ring Hodgson's sales dept and ask for a small list of glazing merchants to you that buy it off them. They'll give you some names\numbers.

Setting\glazing blocks - they're the same actually. Again Hodgson's do them,

http://www.hodgsonsealants.com/download ... 202012.pdf

Page 27.

HIH

Dibs

p.s. For handling get a proper Aluminium Vacuum Lifter Double Cup as per page 24.

 

[Bigdanny]

....
Some folk prefer to "ventilate" the bottom of the beading - but part of me wonders whether that's actually a "fix" for poor installation .....

No, it's so that if the method of fixing should fail then any water getting in between dgu and frame can run away. If it doesn't then any pinpricks that develop in the hotseal will draw up the standing water into the dgu...thus condensation. There's a stack of research documents out there on the web.

When I was looking to do my windows before - I spent an inordinate amount of time on Google and the only reference that I could find was one particular chap's website (who's name escapes me at the mo), no other website, no evidence\research or any standards, etc.

I chose to use a fully bedded method - and looking at the approvals, NHBC, BS, etc. if done correctly - I don't feel there would be any issues. But as with all things - horses for courses.
Dibs

Is this the link you're looking for.
http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/air-gap.htm
Hope it helps
Danny

 

[Austin Branson]

Hi, Danny, thanks for that.
I found 'The Window Man's comments very interesting. Particularly the bit about ventilating the area below the DGU, and allowing water to escape via drain holes. I don't know if they should be ventilated to the interior or the exterior, but I am guessing the latter - what do you think? I don't think it would be very difficult to incorporate the larger rebate (to 15mm) and drain holes. As for the silicone - in my house the windows are a mixed bunch, including some very old single glazed, but most of the newer DGU's have been assembled using mastic that goes soft, and runs down the glass in the summer sun. Good, huh? Some friends have had all their windows replaced because of this, and are now the proud owners of sparkling white UPVC windows. Not to my taste in ancient half-timbered buildings.
Austin

 

[Dibs-h]

Is this the link you're looking for.
http://www.thewindowman.co.uk/air-gap.htm
Hope it helps
Danny

Nope but thanks anyway. I had come across that many years ago and it did get me wondering. I'm the sort that is after evidence and not supposition.

I have double glazed units in very exposed elevations and almost 10yrs on - zero problems. The units have 16mm gaps, Argon filled and the mastic is by Bostik and the units made by one of the largest glazing firms in West Yorkshire (been to see factory).

I fitted them exactly as per Hodgson's B6 specification clause using Soudal sealants (the units are slef cleaning glass).

Their specification clauses are per BS whatever and NHBC - which is a lot more than the Windowman's feelings.

I appreciate folk's mileage may vary - but fitting quality DG units, properly, using quality materials - shouldn't lead to issues.

My 2p worth

Dibs