Cozzer
Established Member
Thanks again, MikeK.
Good of you.
Good of you.
After a while, they do stop working properly. I have a PRV as I have a wood boiler, unvented. the first one worked for several years before I had to replace it. It is quite easy for a wood boiler to overheat, all it takes is a brownout.I don't know if it's true, but a plumber once told me that once the PRV had vented, it would never seal properly again. Could be ballcocks, I'm not a plumber..
I had the crossover issue with the DHW heat exchanger on our Glow Worm, although it doesn't cause a loss of pressure, it actually takes your boiler pressure up to that of the mains. I initially thought it was the external filling loop, but it carried on gaining pressure with the external loop physically removed. Then thought ok, maybe it's own loop, which I have never used, is passing. But no, even with that sealed of it was still gaining, Then the penny dropped. Turned off the mains supply to the boiler and no more gain which confirmed it. Pretty rare I would think. Fortunately very easy to change on these.It been a while (approx 5 years) when I was last a plumber/gas engineer, now a picture framer but my thoughts.
Someone mentioned that if the PRV opened it might not reseal completely, this is correct as debris can be present on the faces of the rubber seal and the brass faceplate it seals against. Expansion vessels do need pumping up usually after approximately 3 years but could be sooner, the correct way to do I this is isolate the flow & return under the boiler ( assuming they turn ok and fully close) you then empty the boiler via the drain off not the PRV ( or risk of contamination and failure to close properly) you then connect a foot pump or decent bike pump with a pressure gauge to the expansion vessel valve and pump up to about 0.8 bar or amount stated in manual, leave the drain off open while you do this as the pumping up will force water the has accumulated in the expansion vessel out. Disconnect pump,Then close drain off and open flow / return valve and you may have to top pressure up to manufacture value (think it was about 1bar) the PRV is designed to open at 3 bar if a over pressure state occurs. I seem to recall sometimes pressure could be lost by crossover in the domestic hot water plate heat exchanger due to cracks internally in the unit.
Hi,I don't know if it's true, but a plumber once told me that once the PRV had vented, it would never seal properly again. Could be ballcocks, I'm not a plumber..
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