I feel your pain Wuffles!
I still have the inverter my dad designed and built from many years ago when we lived in Surrey during the "winter of discontent" in the 1970s. It moved house with us, and became really important when we moved to Brent Knoll (down the road from you). Power cuts there were part of normal life and it got several rebuilds. Its main job was to power the central heating (oil boiler and pump).
You probably know this, but in case:
1. Find out what power your solar inverter requires. If it needs to be "clean" (sinusoidal rather than square waves), that's more expensive to do. You might need to get the info from the solar inverter's supplier or manufacturer. If it's not fussy about the shape of the mains wave supplying it (the waveform), there are many cheaply-designed inverters (rough mains from 12V or 24V) that will do the job. But...
... Your solar inverter needs to be phase-locked to the incoming mains frequency in normal use, probably to within one degree. I'd expect it to be designed to get this sync from whatever source normally powers it. So it will almost certainly lock to the separate genny/inverter you'll be "black starting" it with. This is bad news: (a) the little inverter will have to stay on all the time you're using the solar system and you can't use it like a starter motor on a car engine, (b) the stability of your solar-powered mains will depend on the frequency stability of the little inverter, (c) you could have problems switching back to normal mains afterwards, as your ad hoc system probably can't phase lock to the incoming mains if the solar has been operating whilst the mains is unavailable.
2. It has to be safe, for you and others upstream of you working on the mains distribution system. Make sure you can isolate (disconnect) the load you want to power from your solar system (a) from the incoming normal mains supply, and (b) from other things on the property that might be too big or too awkward a load for your solar inverter to handle. "Awkward" means things like big motors, or lots of fluorescents, which introduce a significant phase shift and/or have high inductance. In other words check that you _can_ run the things you want on your maintained supply.
If you imagine the normal mains as a big flywheel, in normal use your solar system is just giving it a little push when you supply power to the grid. Because the 'flywheel' is so huge compared to your property, odd loads such as motors don't have any significant effect - it just keeps 'turning' at the same speed.
Running off-grid, your solar system will behave like a car engine without a flywheel: it will bump around in voltage and frequency as the load changes - this may not matter, but it might. Switching big loads off, especially large induction motors may cause large voltage spikes too, that could damage the inverter and/or other loads. This may just be me fussing, but I'd want to know how it behaved before committing to use it for real.
3. Make sure the solar inverter isn't damaged by no-load conditions. It shouldn't be, but you will probably need to kill the power to everything on the maintained circuit before reinstating it to the normal configuration when the mains returns. You have to be very careful with generator sets - traditional mechanical generators ("reversed motors") can act as loads instead of generators (i.e. runaway with themselves), if they are presented with a low enough load impedance (actually another, much more powerful generator) and a big enough overvoltage and the wrong phase relationship to the power they are producing. It's too easy to try to re-connect with the two generating systems out-of phase.
There should (must) be some protection against this on your solar system, but solid state kit is rarely comfortable with sudden changes in voltage/current and large voltage spikes etc. You need to know how your solar inverter copes with sudden phase changes in the incoming supply, as might occur at the start or end of a power cut. It should behave gracefully, but as I indicated, it will almost certanly have to interrupt its output to avoid damage (whilst it re-syncs).
It's all conceptually simple, but as you can see plagued with devilish detail. You can do it, but you'd have to be certain all the individual elements will behave properly, and I'd work out a procedure for the start of a power cut, and another for setting it back to normal afterwards, write them down and follow them religiously. Also, without spending a lot of money, you probably can't easily automate any of this, so it will remain a solution for someone who knows what they are doing, and not, for example, for a non-technical spouse.
E.
PS: is there a phase meter of any sort on the solar inverter or even some sort of phase locked indicator?