Slightly restricted planer suggestions

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myimpishgrin

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Good evening all,

I come in search of wisdom, or in lieu of that some experience. I'm hunting for a planer thicknesser for my little hobbiest wood shop that I'm currently building. I'll give some further detail here, but I'll drop tldr bulletpoints at the bottom. Space is fairly limited in there so with that in mind I'm aiming for something with a depth of no more than 800mm (preferably 750mm). I'd also be keen for helical head or spiral head rather than standard knives (I have a little lunch box metabo that screams like a banshee and I'd rather something a little less vocal), but I'd be willing to look at tersa too, though I haven't seen any in my size and price range. Speaking of price, I was hoping for something around the £2000 mark, though I'd be willing to go higher if the machine was deemed enough of an upgrade on the others and it was a sort of "buy once, cry once" situation. Power wise the workshop is in a garage with its own distribution board, but it's just standard home level supply to the best of my knowledge (I didn't build the garage so I'm just going on how it looks). I am considering getting a spark in to quote for upgrading the power given there will be some other machinery and a separate room with a fridge and freezer in it on the circuit, so I won't 100% rule out something that needs more than a standard 3 pin plug.

One slight complication is the fact that I'm in Northern Ireland. That greatly limits my access to the larger UK 2nd hand market unfortunately so barring a stroke of good luck and old sedgwick or something popping up locally, buying and older machine probably isn't an option. It makes shipping expensive (or people just refuse) but I'll just have to swallow that.

I've been looking at the 4 below that fall into these categories

Record Power PT310-HB £2499
Record Power PT107-HB £1899
iTECH 260SS £2028
Jet JPT-310HH £3792

I realise the jet is quite a jump in price, but if it's much better regarded than the other options then I might be able to justify the cost to myself.

So if anyone has any experience of any of these machines I'd love to hear about them, good and bad. Alternatively if anyone has any other suggestions available in the UK / Ireland that match those specs, I'm all ears.

TLDR:
Planer thicknesser
800mm (preferably 750mm) footprint depth
Helical / spiral / tersa cutters
Around £2000 (flexible for the right bit of kit)
Currently standard 240v supply (potentialy to change)
Based in NI so 2nd hand less feasible

Thank for any help you can provide

Pete
 
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Hi Pete.
Welcome to UKW.
You will notice that I've removed four web links from your 1st post above.
Forum software like ours and others automatically assumes that any new sign up to a forum who includes web links in their first few posts is a spammer and just trying to sneak advertising into forums by catching people's interest.
Hopefully that isn't you and I've approved the publishing of your thread, but the web links aren't actually necessary to your question so I've deleted them.
This is an opportunity to point out this common type of spam to you and the other members so I'm making use of your thread. There's no criticism intended.

I'm sure members will soon be along with good advice :)

PS. Please pop along to the "new members" area and introduce yourself to everyone.
Cheers.
 
Hi,
just got the Axi AP310SPT, which may also be a variant to consider for you. Was also very much concerned with the footprint, as I am in a one car garage. But surprisingly the machine is really compact when not in use. Easily fits in the 700-800mm depth.

PS. they've got a smaller model, which should be even smaller a bit, but from what I realised - depth footprint is nearly the same for both 12" and 10" inch models (similar to iTECH and others), so my point is that although these machines may appear huge on pictures, they are surprisingly compact in reality of a UK-style one-car (i.e. frustratingly small) garage-size workshop.
 
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Hi,
just got the Axi AP310SPT, which may also be a variant to consider for you. Was also very much concerned with the footprint, as I am in a one car garage. But surprisingly the machine is really compact when not in use. Easily fits in the 700-800mm depth.

PS. they've got a smaller model, which should be even smaller a bit, but from what I realised - depth footprint is nearly the same for both 12" and 10" inch models (similar to iTECH and others), so my point is that although these machines may appear huge on pictures, they are surprisingly compact in reality of a UK-style one-car (i.e. frustratingly small) garage-size workshop.
Interesting. I'd discounted all the axminster ones because the depth on the dimensional drawings were all over 900mm. Will have to have another look.
 
Interesting. I'd discounted all the axminster ones because the depth on the dimensional drawings were all over 900mm. Will have to have another look.
Yes, that was my point also, but their footprint photos, though very good and I really appreciate they do it, they sometimes are a bit misleading. In this particular case they show with the fence fully extended. But when not in use, you can pull the fence forward and that gives you the minimal footprint. I will post a photo later on today.

On a side note, what I did found, which was a bit of a nasty surprise for me (and may be someone can advise me on that) - the in-feed roller on that planer, and I suspect on all other planer-thicknesser as well - is corrugated.

This means that if I make light passes in thickness mode, it does leave marks on the timber.
Whereas my previous lunchbox thicknesser had both infeed and outfeed rollers smooth, which gave me an option to make very light passes just to clean up and the finish was perfect.

What I was expecting by the upgrade is that this would be upgrade form that, not a downgrade. So now I am sort of a fit frustrated with the outcome. Although the machine itself works perfectly fine. I think it is a common design feature of such type of combined machines.
 
Yes, that was my point also, but their footprint photos, though very good and I really appreciate they do it, they sometimes are a bit misleading. In this particular case they show with the fence fully extended. But when not in use, you can pull the fence forward and that gives you the minimal footprint. I will post a photo later on today.

On a side note, what I did found, which was a bit of a nasty surprise for me (and may be someone can advise me on that) - the in-feed roller on that planer, and I suspect on all other planer-thicknesser as well - is corrugated.

This means that if I make light passes in thickness mode, it does leave marks on the timber.
Whereas my previous lunchbox thicknesser had both infeed and outfeed rollers smooth, which gave me an option to make very light passes just to clean up and the finish was perfect.

What I was expecting by the upgrade is that this would be upgrade form that, not a downgrade. So now I am sort of a fit frustrated with the outcome. Although the machine itself works perfectly fine. I think it is a common design feature of such type of combined machines.
That's great Ilya, a picture and a measurement of it with the fence pulled forward to the maximum extent would be very much appreciated.

That's interesting about the corrugated in-feed, I'd never thought of that
 
Here are some photos. It is on a wheel kit (vevor wheel kitfits it perfectly, not the Axminster one - they apparently do not have a proper wheel kit for it and what they have only has 2 castors, but I found for the same price a one from Vevor tools with 4 castors) - so the castors themselves take a fair bit of space behind, but even with them it is still quite reasonable.

And there is a picture of what it makes if I try to do a very light pass. I do not think that is a machine fault, I think I am doing something wrongly, as I am quite new to it.
 

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I'm hunting for a planer thicknesser for my little hobbiest wood shop that I'm currently building.
Have you asked yourself if you really need one ? If you have a good source of wood then maybe the space could be used by something else and the money saved would buy it. Also some of these machines require a 16 amp supply so something else to bear in mind.
 
Have you asked yourself if you really need one ? If you have a good source of wood then maybe the space could be used by something else and the money saved would buy it. Also some of these machines require a 16 amp supply so something else to bear in mind.
I know what you mean, it's probably not a necessity, but it would be very convenient and as far as machinery goes, it would probably be that and a bandsaw and I'd be done. I'd like to be able to resaw my own material and those 2 tools would make that a whole lot simpler. Power wise I am planning to get a spark out to look at getting things beefed up anyway so I have factored that in, but if the cost is prohibitive then obviously that will limit my choices too.
 
Here are some photos. It is on a wheel kit (vevor wheel kitfits it perfectly, not the Axminster one - they apparently do not have a proper wheel kit for it and what they have only has 2 castors, but I found for the same price a one from Vevor tools with 4 castors) - so the castors themselves take a fair bit of space behind, but even with them it is still quite reasonable.

And there is a picture of what it makes if I try to do a very light pass. I do not think that is a machine fault, I think I am doing something wrongly, as I am quite new to it.
Thank you for this Ilya, greatly appreciated
 
Here are some photos. It is on a wheel kit (vevor wheel kitfits it perfectly, not the Axminster one - they apparently do not have a proper wheel kit for it and what they have only has 2 castors, but I found for the same price a one from Vevor tools with 4 castors) - so the castors themselves take a fair bit of space behind, but even with them it is still quite reasonable.

And there is a picture of what it makes if I try to do a very light pass. I do not think that is a machine fault, I think I am doing something wrongly, as I am quite new to it.
Not sure if the relative heights of the drive roller and cutter block are adjustable or not but that does look as if it’s not quite set right.
If I were to put a piece of wood through mine that gradually got thinner the very last bit after the cutters stopped working does show something similar but it’s very feint, yours is quite deeply marked really.
Ps mine is a totally different mc.
Ian
 
I don't know that machine but I think normally the feed rollers are sprung, and you can adjust the spring tension/preload a little...

To the OP, you mentioned some 10" machines but not the Jet JPT260 - less of a price hike than the JPT310 for similar quality and a small footprint (min 500x1130)
 
I don't know that machine but I think normally the feed rollers are sprung, and you can adjust the spring tension/preload a little...

To the OP, you mentioned some 10" machines but not the Jet JPT260 - less of a price hike than the JPT310 for similar quality and a small footprint (min 500x1130)
I did look at the 260, but it doesn't seem to be available with helical/spiral. But now I'm starting to doubt myself whether that should be the be the deciding factor or not. I suppose I could retrofit an aftermarket cutterhead down the line be that sprial or tersa. Decisions decisions.

Am I right in thinking that the jet stuff is a step up in quality (either quality of output or quality of product from a manufacturing point of view) from the likes of recordpower, itech, axminster etc?
 
Thanks to everyone answered. I also contacted Axminster, and they sent me an instruction on how to tune this. Indeed the infeed roller was super tight from the factory set. Apparently there are 4 bolts (2 infeed and 2 outfeed) that are easy to tune up/down. It took me several iterations and now the finish is smooth and perfect.

Attaching before/after the same piece of scrap pine
 

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Thanks to everyone answered. I also contacted Axminster, and they sent me an instruction on how to tune this. Indeed the infeed roller was super tight from the factory set. Apparently there are 4 bolts (2 infeed and 2 outfeed) that are easy to tune up/down. It took me several iterations and now the finish is smooth and perfect.

Attaching before/after the same piece of scrap pine
That's great news Ilya! Glad you got sorted
 
There is a big difference between 10” and 12” models. I’m limited to 10” width and initially thought I’d have to get a bigger machine at some point but 7yrs later I still have not. I needed to flatten a single piece for a coffee table once but it was 600mm wide so the extra 2” wouldn’t have helped. I have a dining table planned in the future but again I can’t see 300mm width boards making much difference over 250mm width boards.

Think about your projects and that may help you narrow down the specs of the machine.
 
There is a big difference between 10” and 12” models. I’m limited to 10” width and initially thought I’d have to get a bigger machine at some point but 7yrs later I still have not. I needed to flatten a single piece for a coffee table once but it was 600mm wide so the extra 2” wouldn’t have helped. I have a dining table planned in the future but again I can’t see 300mm width boards making much difference over 250mm width boards.

Think about your projects and that may help you narrow down the specs of the machine.
That is a very good point.
But my primary concern is the cost of handling the machines around. Same was with the bandsaw when I was choosing one. It takes nearly the same amount of floor space if it is 10 or 12 inches and 14 vs 16 bandsaw. But the whole hassle of delivering it - that was the biggest concern. I am on my own, and handling it around if it is 170kg or 270 - still beyond my strength and I will need to ask neighbours. And then if (I can only imagine that if in my nightmares) I may need to change a smaller to a slightly bigger one - the cost of handling the whole hassle around just overweights those extra 2 hundreds.

When I get my bandsaw delivered, the driver just put it on my driveway and said goodbye. Mid working day. Noone around. Rain was expected. So I had to call an emergency removal company to come round and literally just take the bandsaw in my garage. Cost me nearly the same as pallet delivery))
 
There is a big difference between 10” and 12” models. I’m limited to 10” width and initially thought I’d have to get a bigger machine at some point but 7yrs later I still have not. I needed to flatten a single piece for a coffee table once but it was 600mm wide so the extra 2” wouldn’t have helped. I have a dining table planned in the future but again I can’t see 300mm width boards making much difference over 250mm width boards.

Think about your projects and that may help you narrow down the specs of the machine.
That is true. Honestly I'm leaning towards the jets at the minute, whether that's the 310 with the helical or the 260 and upgrading the head. It's a LOT of money, but I'm also 40 in a few months so I have an excuse to treat myself. I've read some of the horror stories about helical head blade replacement from @Spectric and others, but it seems I can always replace the cutterhead with a tersa head down the line if it becomes so incredibly frustrating, also applies to replacing the standard head on the 260. The sites tersaknives, applebywoodturning and prime-tooling all seem to sell tersa heads or could get the ESTA Bruck stuff from AMS and S&S spectric mentioned in another thread if I do get fed up and want to make the swap.

My question now is, how much better is the build quality for the Jets than the record power 310? And @Spectric how easy was it to fit the esta bruck stuff and why did you go for it vs a full tersa head upgrade?
 

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