110 volt tools pros and cons

[Wilson joinery]

Evening everyone

I’ve never used a 110 volt tool so have no experience of using them but could any of you please let me know of any pros and cons vs 240v counterparts?

The main one I can think of is the need for a transformer and the weight of the transformer which for me personally wouldn’t be a problem.

The main reason I ask the question is I’m looking at a festool 2200 router which is £400 second hand in 110volt guise and £600 second hand in 240volt guise. Both are described as nearly new. So I just wanted to get some opinions before I probably plump for the 110v and get myself a second hand transformer for around the £30 mark (still £170 cheaper than the 240v one!)

Many thanks all
Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Go for it. Once you have the transformer you pick up 110v stuff as and when. I happened by a second transformer and have one in the garage (workshop) and one in the shed (workshop) both hard wired with an outlet at either end. I have one on a neon socket so it doesn't often get left switched on - they obviously use electricty when not in use - they're always warm, I haven't sorted the other yet - I'm going to wire an LED in tandem with that one. You can pick up transformers cheap enough - many tradesman are ditching 110v for battery stuff and decent extension leads don't fetch much. I cut one down to wire both transformers in. CPC is quite good for plugs and sockets. Many experienced users will tell you they reckon 110v to be better built than 230v stuff - it's primary purpose is site work not DIY.

 

[Sideways]

Back in the day, I picked up a used 110v site transformer and collected a few "new other" quality powertools very cheap. I find lugging a 110v transformer tedious so I sold most of these tools on.

I then discovered that Carroll and Meynell make a super compact 110v transformer that is rated about 1000W for maybe 10 minutes on, 20 minutes off. This is high quality and well suited to such as drills. It has a rating of maybe 600W continuous, so it would work well for a 110v random orbit sander too. The smaller transformer is much nicer to use if you have to carry it. They are pricey but come up on ebay occasionally and I have seen clones of them.

So that was me until recently when I acquired a used magnetic drill. An occasional tool but so good at making big holes. The little portable transformer will power this, but with an 1100W drill motor plus whatever extra is needed for the electromagnet, I felt I needed to add a bigger transformer and this MOD surplus monster popped up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373982736644

Superb quality and heavy, but I won't be moving it beyond my workshop. Rated 1.5kW, but there's no time limit mentioned so that is probably 1.5kW continuous and 2.5 to 3kW intermittent. Transformers can usually be used with a duty cycle just like welders. Manufacturer Blakley sell to the MOD and to the railways.

I'm not convinced that 110v tools are any more durable than their 240v equivalents if the manufacturer offers the tool in a choice of either. It's just fewer turns of thicker wire in the motor windings. Bearings and the design of electronics will be exactly the same. There are a small number of "industrial" tools that are only made in 110v and those you would expect to be especially well built. The mag drills are a good example. I haven't seen a mag drill in 240v.

If you expect to use the tool in the same place and not have to move a transformer around, that's a large financial saving and there won't be any downside in buying a 110v router. You'll have to pass the saving along when you come to sell it on though. The next buyer is going to want the same incentive.

 

[Sideways]

Well, the last one of those big transformers sold within a few minutes of my post above.
I hope it was one of our members snagged it

Nice to see a quality 10" toroid inside a fully welded steel can.

 

[deema]

The big advantage is that it’s powered by 110v isolated supply, so it is much safer than 240V if you happen to cut the power cable.
The advantage the @Sideways highlighted is thicker and fewer wires around the armature, which in the days before they fully epoxied the connections (not every manufacturer does today) meant that it was more robust and would last longer.

 

[HOJ]

The only caveat I would add is, the 110v option may have been a site tool, where as the 240v one would probably be a workshop one.

Personally, I have 110v tools, and don't discriminate between the two, other than their appropriate use in a given environment.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Power = volts x amps so to obtain 1kW at 110v requires the tool to draw twice the current than at 220v.

That is why the windings in 110v tools are heavier, so they do not burn out.

Most transformers have a thermal overload, so they will cut out if stressed. Let it cool, reset the switch and proceed.

A measly little TS55 will a cause thermal overload on a 1.5kVA transformer if used productively. On a 3.3kVA, you can cut all day long.

Because of the higher current flowing in the wires, try to plug the machine directly into the transformer or use a 2.5mm^2 extension lead, to minimise voltage drop.

What kills 110v tools on building sites is plugging them into 3 lengths of 1.5mm^2 extension lead before the widely-spread transformers.

Edit: a 110v 9" grinder (2.0 - 2.2kW) should technically not be used with a 16A plug. That is why when you buy a new one it is always supplied with a bare lead - you are expected to fit a 32A plug, but no-one ever does.

Second edit: 110v x 16A = 1760W, so any 110v tool above that power rating in theory should be used on a 32A plug and would benefit from a 4mm^2 extension lead.

 

[ChaiLatte]

The big advantage is that it’s powered by 110v isolated supply, so it is much safer than 240V if you happen to cut the power cable.

With RCDs on the supply, this advantage of 110v (which is centre-tapped to earth, so you only receive 55v of dancing juice) has been much diluted in modern times.

AIUI most European building sites, who do not subscribe to the historical conservatism we do here in the UK, now allow 230v tools as all the site supplies are on RCDs.

 

[samweb132]

I have quite a few 110v tools Ive bought in auctions. ROS, Belt sanders, mitre saw, 2.25hp router. They seem fine, tend do have been treated a bit rougher if bought second hand but fine for me. Unsure on typical lengths of transformer power lead but mine is only around a meter or so which is incredibly frustrating.

Ive got a table I'm going to mount the router in so the transformer sits under the table but if i was to use it "freehand" i would hate having to lug around the transformer. I think only you can decide if the 170 savings is worth it but do keep in mind that normal transformers are ridiculously heavy. I suppose leaving the transformer in a sanding cart type thing might be good to help wheel around the transformer instead of carrying it about though.

Sideways lighter transformer thing seems like a good option.

 

[Bingy man]

110 is my preference especially when working outside. I’ve just picked up a 110 volt makita circular saw for £40 inc post. It’s an older model I think but it’s absolutely mint , even the blade is decent . I don’t understand the technical stuff but to me they are much stronger than 240 volts and a lot safer .

 

[Inspector]

They're all we have so no pro or cons, just take it or leave it.

Pete

 

[Wilson joinery]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Sounds like I’ll be getting myself the 110v version

Cheers
Pete

 

[AJB Temple]

+1 for 110V. I have t/f in my workshop and run a few Festool things off it. It's no bother at all - just sits under the assembly table usually. Bullit proof stuff usually as 110v kit was pretty much all designed for trade use day in day out.

 

[Spectric]

They're all we have so no pro or cons, just take it or leave it.

But is that 110 volt or 55-0-55 volt with the centre grounded ? The 110 volt was common in control systems whilst the split supply was for safety, 55 volts is reasonably safe.

Be careful with buying used 110 volt site gear as it might have had a hard life, don't buy blind.

 

[Themintimperial]

I've got a similar dilemma myself but looking to move to a KapEx 60.

Has anyone had any experience where the 110v transformer is plugged into a shop vac, that turns on when power is drawn?

In my current set up when the Mitre turns on it turns on the hoover for dust extraction (https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb776vac-1400w-30ltr-wet-dry-vacuum-220-240v/665kh) but I think that would be too many amps for the hoovers plug (max watts that should be plugged into it is 1700w), i'd rather keep my set up but want to know if that is risking burning the hoover out (or it's fuse) or worse messing with the draw for the saw via the transformer.

 

[Dabop]

Everything (including mag drills) that is available in 110v is available in 230v- for the simple reason that pretty much only the UK uses that 55-0-55 worksite system (using expensive US spec 120v equipment these days)- watch out for US spec 120v 60hz equipment though as supplied new these days because their motors run at a different speed when run at 50hz- the motor will run slower and draw less power... good for 'reliability' but makes them 'weaker' than their 50hz cousins...

Most of the world uses 230v nominal 50hz supplies and with fewer and fewer countries still using the US '120v' system those 120v machines are becoming harder to find and more expensive new... (its a smaller market (and shrinking) as more countries switch to the 230v system in new builds)

Since 2000, Indonesia and the Philippines are now officially 230v on all new builds, and Brazil is doing the same in the next couple of years, dropping the US style 120v, which leaves only a literal single handful of countries still on 120v single phase/240v split phase... and Japan on their 100v system...

Which means a smaller 'bespoke' market for those manufacturers still willing to duplicate their production lines for both voltages- and they price accordingly...

Top was 2002, bottom was 2022, with red being 100-120v nominal mains, with most of the red in South America going away in new builds in the next couple of years...

 

[Dabop]

But is that 110 volt or 55-0-55 volt with the centre grounded ? The 110 volt was common in control systems whilst the split supply was for safety, 55 volts is reasonably safe.

Be careful with buying used 110 volt site gear as it might have had a hard life, don't buy blind.

That is done on the transformer, the equipment plugged in is the same for 110v/120v single phase or 55v-0-55v as used in UK construction sites- you end up with the same 'nominal 120v' across the equipment motor, just one is at 110/120v with the full supply on the line/active, with a referenced 0v on the other, the other has both lines at 55v but opposite in phase...

There is no difference in VOLTAGE between 110v and 120v, but before buying, check the motors frequency- there IS a difference between 50hz and 60hz.... a 60hz motor will run slower (by about 20%!!!) than a 50hz one... and be less 'powerful' for the same rated wattage...

 

[Bingy man]

I've got a similar dilemma myself but looking to move to a KapEx 60.

Has anyone had any experience where the 110v transformer is plugged into a shop vac, that turns on when power is drawn?

In my current set up when the Mitre turns on it turns on the hoover for dust extraction (https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb776vac-1400w-30ltr-wet-dry-vacuum-220-240v/665kh) but I think that would be too many amps for the hoovers plug (max watts that should be plugged into it is 1700w), i'd rather keep my set up but want to know if that is risking burning the hoover out (or it's fuse) or worse messing with the draw for the saw via the transformer.

If I’m reading you correctly I’d just run the transformer on a separate line and any 240 vac on another as I think there’s a limit on what a power out socket can produce . But if I’m wrong I’ll stand corrected..