Shultzy's Router Table

[Chems]

Will the Feather boards do their job if they only have 1 anchor point? All the ones I've seen normally have 2 won't it just twist away if something is kicked back?

I need to make up a set and don't have a bandsaw, would the kerf of my table saw do?

 

[OPJ]

I really like the clamps you've added to secure your fence in position (wish I'd done something like that now, it looks easier than fiddling with Bristol levers and slots! :roll.

 

[Shultzy]

Chems, the idea is to push the boards down slightly onto the workpiece, then any kickback will cause the left hand end of the board to dig into the workpiece. Any twisting will increase the force.

Most saws have a 3mm kerf which is a bit wide for feather boards, however its the thickness of the "feathers" which determines the "springyness".

 

[martin.j.h]

Nice table. What do your drawers run on? The carcass is 3/4" but your face frames look wider and yet appear flush in the photographs.

 

[Krysstel]

I don't have a bandsaw but I do have a mitre saw.
I successfully and extremely quickly made my feather boards on the mitre saw.
Marked out the cut lines including kerf width on an oversize, square piece of 12mm MDF, butted it against the saw fence with a packing piece to give the correct feather length, and then cut to the right of each marked line with the saw set at 15 degrees mitre angle.
Worked a treat and I bashed out 4 feather boards in no time. Must be much easier than feeding into a bandsaw blade and then withdrawing for every feather. :wink:

 

[Shultzy]

martin.j.h, the drawer runners are full extension from screwfix. The face frame is 1 1/4" x 7/8", not quite sure what you mean by "flush"?

Krysstel, I think its whatever works for each of us. I stacked four high and set a back stop, then moved the fence 5mm by eye without locking it, quite quick really.

 

[Blister]

Another nice project :lol:

When will my shop be finished :roll:

 

[martin.j.h]

Shultzy
If the frame is 3/4 and the face frame is an inch and 1/4 there must be an overlap of 1/2" at outer panel and 1/4" each side of the dividers. How did you take up this gap when fitting the runners?

 

[Shultzy]

martin.j.h, Ah! I see what you mean. The face frame is also flush to the inside of the router enclosure so there is 1/2" either side of the runners, which I packed out with 1/2" ply strips glued and pinned. The centre frame of the bottom three drawers straddles the divider and I used 1/4" ply strips glued and pinned. The drawers are lined with "fake grass" I bought from Lidl, it stops the contents moving when I open the drawers.

 

[Extremely Average]

Nicely done on the router table, even with the slight error on the plate I think it looks fantastic. You have given me some good ideas for my own router table.

Thanks.

 

[Shultzy]

Thanks EA for your nice comments. PM me if you want more info.

 

[Shultzy]

Just a note to say I've put all the photos back.

I also added a rotating flap to the router enclosure extraction port. This is to vary the amount of air sucking out the dust depending on the routing operation.