Shooting board question

[MikeW]

Hi Paul,

I mainly use a shooting board for end grain, whether it is suppose to be a 90 degrees to an edge or another angle, most typlically 45 degrees.

I do have a long-edge shoot board which I use to joint veneer edges prior to glue-up.

And don't forget the use of a miter jack for wide boards... :lol:

Take care, Mike

 

[engineer one]

ok mike, that is kind of what i thought.

i saw that you too have a LN mitre plane,
how easy do you find it to keep the blade straight and adjusted
properly.

mine is nice, but keeping the plate and the blade in the correct
places, that is a thing to learn.

paul :wink:

 

[Jarviser]

Using that plane, surely you will cut away the part of the shooting board you need for registration??

I think it's actually balanced on the tenons and cutting the shoulders, not on the board at all. But it's worth pointing out that using any kind of rebate/shoulder plane on a shooting board in the normal way is not advised unless you want to destroy your shooting board.

Peter, how d'you avoid spelching on the nearer rail/stile?

Cheers, Alf

You are right, I only use a shoulder plane with tenons or rebates so the plane is held above the top board. With this plane I am using the nearer workpiece as a balance, and cutting only the further one, so the "normal" fence stops the shoulder spelching. After a few strokes I swap them over. The extra fence simply keeps the plane square to the stock - a function normally done with the upper board when using a bench plane. When cutting cheeks there is nothing to stop the spelching, apart from the fineness of the cut. But that is normally the case anyway.
The fences don't get cut away using this method as the stock is kept a nat's ahead of the end of the fence. Like I say, not usual, but it works for me and keeps the plane from rocking.
I have used it on single tenons like on my dining table, and the two fences are used to keep it square. There's a tenon under there!

Bob Wearing designed a similar shooting board with an upper board joining the two fences to give a running rail for the upper margin of the bench plane to run. I didn't like it as it obstructed the view too much.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Peter

I must say that I have never considered using a shoulder plane on the shooting board.

I find it preferable to cut the shoulder with a saw (backsaw, dozuki, tablesaw, bandsaw - name your poison), chisel out a wedge at the saw line, and then level this up with a #140.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Jarviser]

Peter

I find it preferable to cut the shoulder with a saw (backsaw, dozuki, tablesaw, bandsaw - name your poison), chisel out a wedge at the saw line, and then level this up with a #140.

Regards from Perth

Derek

...and yours is the traditional way. My sawing skill is not up to it, even though I have arguably the best saws money can buy. I prefer to saw a little off line and shoot down to it. It needs less skill on my part, without abdicating skill altogether and using a router table. :wink: