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Mark1965

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Hi there
I’m new to the forum and need a bit of help if possible?
Recently bought second hand table saw ScheppachTS 2000 that wouldn’t rise and fall, cleaned it down thoroughly and managed to raise it to max height but cannot adjust, any suggestions? Also bought ( on impulse) from same seller Scheppach HMS260 planer thicknesses, looks complete but haven’t used one before, anyone help with instructions etc?
Live near Chichester.
Thanks
Mark
 
Hi, I have the same saw. I've been very pleased with it, obviously the cheaper end of the market but works well enough for what I do. The height adjust is to my mind it's weak point with the plastic parts, thorough cleaning and lite lubrication got mine working but it needs to be kept that way. One thing I have been very pleased with is the customer support from Scheppach, (phone number on the instruction book) who talked me through setting up and had obviously used the saw themselves, they can give you much clearer direction than I could.

One mistake I made was removing the over blade dust collector without realizing it's safety function.
 
Don't know much about the saw but try to give the mechanism a good blast of compressed air followed by some WD40. Usually frees up any stiffness.
The Hms 260 is a great little machine. Check the width of the blades - They should be 19mm but may have worn down with repeat sharpening. New blades are freely available. When installing rotate the block by hand and pry the blade upwards until it just touches a scrap of wood on the outfeed table. The manual says it should pull the block by 6mm but this always sets the blade too high. Took me a while to realise that.
 
Hi, I have the same saw. I've been very pleased with it, obviously the cheaper end of the market but works well enough for what I do. The height adjust is to my mind it's weak point with the plastic parts, thorough cleaning and lite lubrication got mine working but it needs to be kept that way. One thing I have been very pleased with is the customer support from Scheppach, (phone number on the instruction book) who talked me through setting up and had obviously used the saw themselves, they can give you much clearer direction than I could.

One mistake I made was removing the over blade dust collector without realizing it's safety function.
Cheers Ozi
I had the same saw a few years ago but sold it…..big mistake.

I saw this one for sale and snapped it up………didn’t check it properly.

Is the Scheppach phone number the same as on the website, I got no manuals at all with the saw.

Thank you for your response

Mark
 
Cheers Ozi
I had the same saw a few years ago but sold it…..big mistake.

I saw this one for sale and snapped it up………didn’t check it properly.

Is the Scheppach phone number the same as on the website, I got no manuals at all with the saw.

Thank you for your response

Mark
I assume so, if you could see the state of my workshop just now you would understand my reluctance to go and look for the manual, if you can't find it post again and I will start digging
 
They are both decent machines - I don't know the TS2000 inside out, but I'd suggest double checking / cleaning any threaded rise/fall rods with an old toothbrush/wire brush or something to fully clean, as I've seen sawdust compact in the threads to stop the movement on machines - you can't see it by eye sometimes.
I'd also then just use dry silicon spay as WD40 can create gunk that compacts and affects all the movement all over again. Cheers.
 
Our Men's Shed purchased a used HMS 260 for £50.00. Bargain of the century in my mind. This machine is built like a bridge, very solid, heavy, and once setup it stays setup. Everything about it is heavy duty. And it is accurate. Setting the blades is done like any other planner / thicknesser. I use a steel six inch rule on edge, above the blades and rock the blade back and forth. When the rule moves 3mm I'm done. This puts the blade .81 (or maybe .18, can't remember), above the outfeed table. If you can find a used one it is well worth it.
 
I assume so, if you could see the state of my workshop just now you would understand my reluctance to go and look for the manual, if you can't find it post again and I will start digging
I'm sure he coild download one from scheppach website!
 
They are both decent machines - I don't know the TS2000 inside out, but I'd suggest double checking / cleaning any threaded rise/fall rods with an old toothbrush/wire brush or something to fully clean, as I've seen sawdust compact in the threads to stop the movement on machines - you can't see it by eye sometimes.
I'd also then just use dry silicon spay as WD40 can create gunk that compacts and affects all the movement all over again. Cheers.
Cheers Nick,
Thanks for your guidance, much appreciated
Mark
 
Cheers Ozi
I had the same saw a few years ago but sold it…..big mistake.

I saw this one for sale and snapped it up………didn’t check it properly.

Is the Scheppach phone number the same as on the website, I got no manuals at all with the saw.

Thank you for your response

Mark
You might be able uo download manual from scheppach site just make sure you have model and serial number etc!
 
Don't know much about the saw but try to give the mechanism a good blast of compressed air followed by some WD40. Usually frees up any stiffness.
The Hms 260 is a great little machine. Check the width of the blades - They should be 19mm but may have worn down with repeat sharpening. New blades are freely available. When installing rotate the block by hand and pry the blade upwards until it just touches a scrap of wood on the outfeed table. The manual says it should pull the block by 6mm but this always sets the blade too high. Took me a while to realise that.
Thanks, much appreciated ;-)
 
They are both decent machines - I don't know the TS2000 inside out, but I'd suggest double checking / cleaning any threaded rise/fall rods with an old toothbrush/wire brush or something to fully clean, as I've seen sawdust compact in the threads to stop the movement on machines - you can't see it by eye sometimes.
I'd also then just use dry silicon spay as WD40 can create gunk that compacts and affects all the movement all over again. Cheers.
Many thanks, much appreciated;-)
 
I'm sure he coild download one from scheppach website!

Many thanks, much appreciated;-)
I use use a steel six inch rule on edge, above the blades and rock the blade back and forth. When the rule moves 3mm I'm done. This puts the blade .81 (or maybe .18, can't remember), above the outfeed table. If you can find a used one it is well worth it.
Sorry, I can't agree
If the blade is above the outfeed table you will get snipe. As the piece leaves the infeed table it will drop slightly onto the blade causing snipe. I see plenty of utubers, especially American who simply accept this and waste wood. Sometimes you have to rely on experience and not just the manual.!
 
Well, if the blades are below the outfeed table how do you get the wood to move onto the outfield table? If you use push blocks or your hands, you should always keep pressure both tables, then as he wood moves past the infeed table keep pressure on the outfeed table and you won't get any snipe. It always works for me.
 

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