Scheppach ts4020 setup

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Pintglass

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4 May 2009
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Location
Cheshire
Hello Again
Im still having a few problems with this saw. The main one being i can not seem to get the sliding carriage setup right. When cutting wide boards say 600mm or more they seem to be hitting the back of the saw blade causing the top of the board to break out. I have tried packing the carriage rail, so the table is moving away from the blade as i am cutting but this results in the cut being out of square. I was given a free blade when i bought this saw its just a basic 80 tooth one. I have noticed that when spinning the blade by hand and having a straight edge placed up to it that the blade seems warped, could this be the problem.
I was thinking of buying a new blade but didn't want to spend £100 on a decent blade for it to be no better.

Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks Pintglass
 
H Pintglass

You do have a problem, i'm sure that that the blade should be near to .001" true, but am sure that the vibration due to out of true would be very noticeable.

I have squared many Scheppach (and other) Table Saws and they are tricky using the shims supplied.

I can't see from your profile where you are located but can help if you are in the Midlands or Shropshire? I have the digital kit to align a table saw to very fine tolerances.

Alternatively, Call David Biven at David Biven Machinery on 01253 724862
He sells both the machines and Freud blades, he would gladly advise on what the problem is. He is a great guy and will help you get it sorted.
 
The sliding carriage should always run parallel and square to the blade. If not it will obviously run out of square.
What board are you cutting? have you got a backing piece? a sacrificial backing board ? I assume its veneered seeing as you are using an 80 tooth blade, although there is hardly a need to spend a hundred quid on another blade..... Is it a suitable blade for the machine? Is it a chop saw blade?
Using a blade from a mitre saw can cause these issues. Check what the blade manufacturer recommends as usage of the blade you were given/
To get you through, have you tried masking tape on the cutting line to prevent breakout?
 
Hi Pintglass

I have a Scheppach TS2500 with sliding table and I had exactly the same problem.

From my experience I have found that running the sliding table slightly toe out cures the issue as the sawn edge moves fractionally away from the blade. The result is that the waste side moves slightly towards the rising teeth and this throws up it's own issues and risks, therefore keep the toe out very very small.

As for cutting square. There is an excellent post on this forum that tells you how to make a sliding table cut perfectly square using the 5 side cut method. I square mine every time I start a new project and I've got it down to a fine art. I'll look for the post.

Jon
 
Thanks for the replys.

Rinkydinky
Thanks for the offer but i'm in cheshire, i may give your man a call to see about a freud blade. I was thinking about getting a dial indicator so any recommendations would be welcome.

streepips
The board i'm cutting is double sided melamine, the machine i have has a scoring blade, the main blade was given to me as a freebie by NMA agencies when i bought the saw, its just an alternate top bevel, not a steep bevel like on the triple chip blades it has a positive rake of about 10 degrees i think. I have had about 150- 200 cuts to make so putting masking tape on is not an option really.

jyates
Thanks for the link i will try this method.

I used to have a scheppach tku bench saw and spent most of the time messing about trying to get that to cut square, i thought upgrading to this machine would not have the same issues. i'm not really that impressed at the moment, the scoring blade doesn't give a very clean cut when cross cutting but is fine when ripping, and getting the board to miss the back edge of the blade is a nightmare as rinkydinky said using shims is a pain as you have to take the sliding carriage of and the carriage rail to add or remove them. I would of thought having a scoring blade on the machine would make having a triple chip blade less important.

Thanks again Pintglass
 
I will give them a call tomorrow, i did ask them when i first got the saw what the problem could be but i got told to just persevere with it, well i have persevered now and its still not right. i'm starting to think that the saw has far to much runout, so they are going to have to come and sort this or it can go back.

Thanks Pintglass
 

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