Sash window profiling and spindle moulders

[Doug71]

@Ollie78 those windows are looking great

 

[Walfy]

If tasked with this window I would do the following.

This is fantastic thank you

It appears my glaziers don't supply this type of glass - hence I wasn't aware of it.

Yes low sightline is what I've been after - I can then replicate just without the sliding sashes. I'm thinking of it as a piece of art rather than a window which I appreciate is a bit odd but then it's the clients choice.

Making the curved glazing bars is my next issue - would you have three panes or 'stick on' for the top section?

I'm imagining a jig for an arc cut across the router table to profile (and haven't got my head around the tenons yet!)

Thank you!

 

[Ollie78]

This is fantastic thank you

It appears my glaziers don't supply this type of glass - hence I wasn't aware of it.

Yes low sightline is what I've been after - I can then replicate just without the sliding sashes. I'm thinking of it as a piece of art rather than a window which I appreciate is a bit odd but then it's the clients choice.

Making the curved glazing bars is my next issue - would you have three panes or 'stick on' for the top section?

I'm imagining a jig for an arc cut across the router table to profile (and haven't got my head around the tenons yet!)

Thank you!

The originals were called slimlight from Edinburgh, there are now many options. I get mine from Treforest glass in Wales, I am on the very edge of their free delivery zone.
I see you are in Oxford, I used to work there for many years fixing old sashes. I do not miss the Botley road roundabout one bit !
Try C N glass in Banbury I have used them before but they were not so good when it came to templated shapes etc. might be better these days.

https://www.treforestglass.co.uk/heritage-slim-low-sight-line-units/

https://www.cnglass.co.uk/double-glazing/heritage-double-glazing/

You could hinge it like a big open inwards door.

I personally never use any type of stick on bars so would do them as proper bars.
This will involve either steam bending and / or laminated sections using a former to get the bar blanks and then some kind of jig to put the mould on them.

 

[Walfy]

Amazing thank you

Luckily I've moved down to somerset - however visiting family reminds me of the A34 - I don't miss it either!

Yes steam bending is out - tried it once and it wasn't for me. Also I think we're going Sapele which doesn't lend itself well to steam - or bending - so I read.

I'm in touch with 'cornish glazing' or somesuch who seem to have a good option for me 20mm overall with 8mm sightlines, good U=values) much better than the 15mm SLs I was looking at before.

I had planned to cut the curves from a single piece (they're only 40cm long) but I guess you'll say it will move over time? even with clever tenoning? looks like I'll have to revisit my quote if we're getting into laminating as I don't have planer/drum sanders etc and this is going to add time and complexity to my life. I would be very interested to know what you would quote for the work, personal message fine - for me it's a fantastic project and I'm expecting it to take at least a month of labour and I can't wait but I need to be charging appropriately and not just t+m because this would be unreasonable - not being a seasoned pro!

Thank you again for all the advice - hugely appreciated

Tomorrow I pick up a spindle moulder, fingers crossed.

 

[Ollie78]

Ah, don`t know anyone in Somerset for units I know there was a good one in Bristol but can`t remember the name of them.

I usually prefer Utile as it has less interlocking grain. You may well be able to cut them out of one piece.
If you select a nice wide board, plain sawn preferably you can find some sections with curved grain to follow.

The spindle moulder will certainly improve your life.

 

[HOJ]

Is it not in a conservation area? It should be!

For the sake of a few minutes, I would strongly recommend checking with the LA, all it usually takes is a look on their planning web site, put the post code in to check, it could be problematic if, after it's made and fitted you find out it is, or someone else does.

 

[Adamprince2]

If tasked with this window I would do the following.

Copy it`s design and mouldings and make it traditionally, adjusting slightly for double glazing.
I would use individual dgu`s with 6.5mm sightlines something like a 4/8/4 with krypton fill to give a decent` U value.
You may have to increase the glazing bar width to fit the units but you can go as slim as 20mm at a push, I normally do 22 mm if I can. You won`t notice much difference because the painter has probably put 5mm on the glass by now anyway so the new one will look the same.
Glaze using hodgesons heritage putty ( H1 system).
Draughtproofing on parting and staff beads and meeting rail.
Stick on bars look odd, and conservation officers generally don`t like them in my experience.

Its quite like the ones I am doing at the moment except fancier, these ones don`t have double glazing but accoustic laminate. New bottom sashes, new cills, repaired upper sashes, all new glass, lime pointing.
They are wierd because only the top ones open using a rope and pulley.

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What is your experience with the longevity of double glazing when installed wet with Hodgesons Heritage Putty? Do you still use rubber setting blocks and locating blocks? I've read over the standards for modern dgu and they suggest dry install.

Timber Windows: Avoiding Common Failures – Water Ingress Around Glazing
"Fully bedding glazing units on sealant should not be accepted as a method to install IGUs as it leads to failures."

 

[Ollie78]

What is your experience with the longevity of double glazing when installed wet with Hodgesons Heritage Putty? Do you still use rubber setting blocks and locating blocks? I've read over the standards for modern dgu and they suggest dry install.

Timber Windows: Avoiding Common Failures – Water Ingress Around Glazing
"Fully bedding glazing units on sealant should not be accepted as a method to install IGUs as it leads to failures."

I have not had any issue with them failing. I have been using similar products for a very long time. First of all it was dryseal by repair care as it used to be the only one but then the patent ran out or everyone else caught up.
I must have done some 12 years ago and they are fine.

The thing is with these heritage type projects you need to maintain the appearance of putty and so beading is a no go. You are almost treating the heritage units as single glass, they are quite different to a 28mm unit.
If you do it with a silicone backing and filling like hodgesons U9, then you can wait for it to dry and face it with putty, this stops the putty touching the edge seal but the putty still takes an age to dry and birds will still eat it.

The hybrid polymer sealants basically become rubber, so in effect you are encapsulating the unit all around in a secondary seal and you can paint it next day.
I use plastic spacers to centre the units.

It is recommended by my unit supplier
https://www.treforestglass.co.uk/wp...rest_Glass_-_Slim_Installation_Guide_2019.pdf

This is the H1 method data sheet.
https://www.hodgsondirect.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/HS-The-H1-Glazing-System.pdf

These guys are the cheapest https://www.wholesaleglasscompany.co.uk/shop/putties-glazing-compounds/hodgson-heritage-putty.html