Rust on my bandsaw table...help!

[OscarG]

I've only had my Record Power bandsaw about 5 months, when not in use it's covered but I guess not well enough as there's now an ugly layer of surface rust on the table.

Can you recommend a product to remove it/protect it in the future? How do you guys stop your cast iron tables from rusting?

Cheers!

 

[MusicMan]

WD40 and steel wool to remove.

Wax to protect - almost any will do, people use renaissance wax, britwax or pay a lot from a tool shop for a tool protection wax.

Camellia oil is traditionally used by Japanese craftsmen to protect their tools, but not so good for a saw table as it can stain the wood.

 

[Benpointer]

I was worried about the same problem on my BS400 I bought in April. I think someone on this forum advised Liberon Lubricating Wax, which I applied in May and so far no rust!, even though the bandsaw is in an unheated and not very airtight (maybe that's a good thing) wooden workshop.

Your question has reminded me it's probably time for another application!

 

[skipdiver]

Mine went rusty from lack of use until recently when i cleaned it with vinegar and wire wool, then WD40 and more wire wool. Applied some Briwax because i had some and it's been fine up to now.

 

[MikeJhn]

All of my tools are in an un-heated barn with holes in the walls and doors, I use the afore mentioned Liberon Lubricating Wax and none of the cast iron beds or any of my tools seem to go rusty under the dust sheet I put over then when I am not there, so I am a very happy bunny.

Mike

 

[Rorschach]

As mentioned steel wool and WD40 do a good job as removing light surface rust. I apply a coat of Ren wax to my table about once a year. No rust so far but it is developing a nice dark patina.

 

[woodfarmer]

Instead of using very expensive wd40, use diesel fuel. I used that and wire wool to reclaim the beds and slides from rust on the Holbrook.

 

[Wizard9999]

I applied Boeshield T9 followed by renaissance wax to mine. No signs of rust.

Hope it cleans up OK.

Terry.

 

[OscarG]

Thanks guys!

Some great info there, time to go shopping.

 

[MikeJhn]

One thing to take into account is what you clean your cast iron with, contamination of your raw timber could ruin your efforts, oil will refuse to dissipate and there will be no way of applying a finish.

Mike

 

[woodpig]

WD40 and steel wool to remove.

Wax to protect - almost any will do, people use renaissance wax, britwax or pay a lot from a tool shop for a tool protection wax.

Camellia oil is traditionally used by Japanese craftsmen to protect their tools, but not so good for a saw table as it can stain the wood.

+1. I use Renwax on mine just because I have it but almost any wax will do.

 

[OscarG]

One thing to take into account is what you clean your cast iron with, contamination of your raw timber could ruin your efforts, oil will refuse to dissipate and there will be no way of applying a finish.

That's a good point, I didn't think of that.

Do you think Liberon Lubricating Wax will be ok?

 

[woodpig]

Do you think Liberon Lubricating Wax will be ok?

Not used it myself but judging by the description it sounds pretty good.

 

[Sheptonphil]

I use GT85 on all my cast iron in the unheated workshop. As a spray it gets to places that rubbing wax on doesn't reach.

Phil

 

[MikeJhn]

One thing to take into account is what you clean your cast iron with, contamination of your raw timber could ruin your efforts, oil will refuse to dissipate and there will be no way of applying a finish.

That's a good point, I didn't think of that.

Do you think Liberon Lubricating Wax will be ok?

I use Liberon Lubricating Wax, in an unheated barn, its first class IMO.

Mike

 

[DiscoStu]

I just use WD40 or GT85 to protect my machines - works well. I apply leave for a minutes and wipe off.

Also I'm not sure covering a machine is wise? Just my thoughts / logic but if you've been using a machine it will be warm and that will cause moisture if you cover with a plastic cover then the moisture will condense on the cover or tool as it cools. Just my logic so feel free to prove this logic wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MikeJhn]

I cover my machines with cotton decorators dust sheets.

Mike

 

[woodpig]

The worst thing I ever did to a machine housed in a garage was to spray the table with WD40. When I went into the garage about a week later it was covered in rust!

 

[JonnyW]

Buy yourself a pack of Scotchbrite pads - they are brilliant for taking surface rust off. You can buy them in different grades https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01ATZWN5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The renaissance wax seems to be the dog's swingers. I've never used it on my machines, as I use a large tub of natural beeswax furniture polish. Just because I had a huge tin of it and it's quite a cheap alternative to covering large areas.

It seems to keep the rust off.

I do wonder about covering machines up though. Would this not encourage moisture build-up through lack of ventilation around the metal? Sorry if this has been mentioned as I've not read through all the comments.

Jonny

 

[CHJ]

I do wonder about covering machines up though. Would this not encourage moisture build-up through lack of ventilation around the metal? .

If you cover the machines up after use whilst they are still warm with a fabric which is in itself semi-insulated, even if it's only that residual heat from the motor/drive assembly it is likely to remain a couple of degrees warmer than any moisture laden air in the shop, thus preventing condensation on the machine.


On the subject of WD40, remember it is a water dispersant, ideal for getting between the water and a surface and then flushing out the water from a motor or other stuff that has been subject to immersion.
If it is just left in situ on a previously wet surface without removing the lifted moisture then the moisture is still there, and capable of finding its way back to the surface if, when the volatiles in the WD40 evaporate, there are holes in the coating.
Once the initial contamination is removed and dried off then re-application may form a reasonable barrier.

Water (lighter colour) & WD40.