Router table problem

[Niall Church]

Hi,using a jet jrt2 router table attached router underneath, hitachi m8 with 6mm bit should I feed wood in from direction of arrow,and I'm practicing routing channels in middle of wood but it gets clogged up in channel! I'm routing15mm channel. Would I be better routing freehand rather than having router upside down!

 

[supertom44]

The arrow represents the direction the bit is spinning, you should feed the work in from right to left, this prevents the bit "grabbing" onto the workpiece and throwing it.

Routing channels will alway cause some clogging I feel as there is no where for the chips to go. Doing multiple shallow passes helps reduce this a lot though.

 

[Niall Church]

The arrow represents the direction the bit is spinning, you should feed the work in from right to left, this prevents the bit "grabbing" onto the workpiece and throwing it.

Routing channels will alway cause some clogging I feel as there is no where for the chips to go. Doing multiple shallow passes helps reduce this a lot though.

If I feed from right to left,it makes a funny noise,if I do it this way it sounds more normal! Sort of a choppy sound!

 

[Woody2Shoes]

I suggest, in line with previous comments:

1) Make the cut in more than one pass - say 5mm depth of cut each pass.
2) Dust extraction is important - chips will tend to clog the cut.
3) Yes, you should be moving the workpiece across the fence from right to left.
4) Don't forget to use featherboards and pushsticks - you need to keep your hands well away from the whizzing cutter at all times.

PS that cutter doesn't seem to be very deeply inserted into the collet - that could increase likelihood of chattering noises.

 

[Oscar43634]

I find if I'm making a channel as you describe then dust extraction below is more important than on the fence.

 

[Niall Church]

I suggest, in line with previous comments:

1) Make the cut in more than one pass - say 5mm depth of cut each pass.
2) Dust extraction is important - chips will tend to clog the cut.
3) Yes, you should be moving the workpiece across the fence from right to left.
4) Don't forget to use featherboards and pushsticks - you need to keep your hands well away from the whizzing cutter at all times.

PS that cutter doesn't seem to be very deeply inserted into the collet - that could increase likelihood of chattering noises.

The bit is a extra length bit, i will reduce depth and see what happens, ibhavev2 feather boards one each side of bit!

 

[Niall Church]

I suggest, in line with previous comments:

1) Make the cut in more than one pass - say 5mm depth of cut each pass.
2) Dust extraction is important - chips will tend to clog the cut.
3) Yes, you should be moving the workpiece across the fence from right to left.
4) Don't forget to use featherboards and pushsticks - you need to keep your hands well away from the whizzing cutter at all times.

PS that cutter doesn't seem to be very deeply inserted into the collet - that could increase likelihood of chattering noises.

I think I'll have to do these channels wirh hand held router,I think because the wood is uneven, the bit is hitting one side of chsnnel thus giving that noise!

 

[Thingybob]

I find channeling easier using a winged slotter on an arbour unless you want a slot deeper than 13 mm

 

[Ttrees]

I think I'll have to do these channels wirh hand held router,I think because the wood is uneven, the bit is hitting one side of chsnnel thus giving that noise!

Roy Sutton's videos on youtube would be worth watching,
as it sounds like you fancy someone else's cookin.

All the best
Tom

 

[Niall Church]

I find channeling easier using a winged slotter on an arbour unless you want a slot deeper than 13 mm

What's that then?

 

[Ttrees]

Also worth pointing out that checking the collet/bit are both comparative for the router and in good condition, as in a recent post, before splashing out on something what might not fit.

 

[MikeJhn]

A winged slotter on an arbour is like a biscuit jointer, you make the slot against the fence not the table, clears better as the wings throw the debris behind the work piece through the fence into the dust pick up.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Slotting groovers are the most efficient way of grooving on a router table, just two issues to consider.

How far from the edge of the board or edge of timber does the groove need to be, groovers on arbours can only each up max 30mm ish, longer arbours are available but watch out for bearing strain.

The saw type cutting action of the slotter/groover is a much more efficient than the standard two flute cutter spinning on its self, leaving no where for the dust to go. The down side to the groover is more potential for breakout on the timber surface. This can be reduced by smaller cuts or using a false fence. The same false fence principle as in my article on spindle moulders.

https://www.peterseftonfurnituresch...How-to-use-False-Fences-and-Tunnel-Guards.pdf
Standard Range

Cheers

Peter

 

[Niall Church]

Also worth pointing out that checking the collet/bit are both comparative for the router and in good condition, as in a recent post, before splashing out on something what might not fit.

They were ok, I had used the router hand held before that and everything was alright! I think it's probably that the wood is a little uneven and when it's being pushed thru the bit it moves a little from side to side and thus the chatter from the router.

Slotting groovers are the most efficient way of grooving on a router table, just two issues to consider.

How far from the edge of the board or edge of timber does the groove need to be, groovers on arbours can only each up max 30mm ish, longer arbours are available but watch out for bearing strain.

The saw type cutting action of the slotter/groover is a much more efficient than the standard two flute cutter spinning on its self, leaving no where for the dust to go. The down side to the groover is more potential for breakout on the timber surface. This can be reduced by smaller cuts or using a false fence. The same false fence principle as in my article on spindle moulders.

https://www.peterseftonfurnituresch...How-to-use-False-Fences-and-Tunnel-Guards.pdf
Standard Range

Cheers

Peter

I see,15mm is what I needed!

 

[MikeJhn]

In that case you need at least a 30mm dia cutter plus the width of the shank and any bearing, maybe easier to get a spiral down cutter.

https://www.axminstertools.com/tren...7429?queryID=3d4d22407f471b7b6cbc288f5d58ab8d

 

[Recky33]

Always go from right to left ALWAYS, it's just a matter of time and it wont be long, that wood is going to get grabbed and you will automatically try to stop it, problem is it wont be there anymore, just a very sharp spinny thing traveling at 20000 rpm, hopefully you will only ever do it once though

 

[Thingybob]

As they say Niall a picture is worth a thousand words this a three winged slotter on a 1/2 inch arbour it possible to stack cutters to groove a slot 7/8th wide without the bearing 15mm is a possible depth of cut but as Peter said watch out for bearing strain on the router

 

[Thingybob]

PS the single cutter in the photos is one I damaged when I dropped it but you can buy them singular only the one you need at the time, but a long arbour is a must if you want to add cutters at a later date

 

[Niall Church]

PS the single cutter in the photos is one I damaged when I dropped it but you can buy them singular only the one you need at the time, but a long arbour is a must if you want to add cutters at a later date

Thanks,but ,can this be uolsed woth a hitachi m8 router,1/4 " 6mm I think?

 

[Thingybob]

Thanks,but ,can this be uolsed woth a hitachi m8 router,1/4 " 6mm I think?

You can buy a 1/4" ,6mm arbour and winged slotter to fit a smaller router