Rounding off Plane Iron Corners

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The Director was published in 1754, right around the time the chipbreaker was invented. Would it be a stretch to infer it facilitated the manufacture of this furniture?
No doubt would have helped if double irons were available, but the big issue was the availability of mahogany - very easy to work and wide clear pieces. And big money - an abundance of wealthy people able to pay for the 1000s of hours which went in to making the stuff, thanks to colonialism and booming economy etc.
I think you're way off the mark in your assumptions. I have myself, with my very own hands, setup my planes and they do work to my satisfaction, I get very good surfaces. I don't know what I have surrendered when I have shown to myself that I have now tools the work well.

Do you use single iron planes in your work?
Yes with block (needs low angle for a one handed plane), shoulder (no cb needed across the grain), rebate/plough (for fast but unrefined cuts).
Is there something wrong with using the cb?
No
Be more specific in your critizism, otherwise you're just talking nonsense.
What criticism?
 
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Hey Pabs - do you wish you hadn't asked the question???
I see you have only been a member a month longer than me, but I've been on other forums and have learned a couple of things - first when you ask a sensible question expect many answers to be totally irrelevant. Second, given the least bit of a chance a thread will veer off to allow someone to get on their personal hobby horse. Thirdly be prepared for an argument if you mention anything about sharpening tools. Some people enjoy playing with their tool far more than enjoying the actual woodwork.
 
Perhaps time for those who argue some demonstrations of the opposite?
This approach could be done for smoothing until then instead, should the irons not be interchangable, or whatever reason this iron wouldn't be used for scrub work of sorts,
Perhaps Pabs could give more information of his intentions with the plane, or his options
in regards to say what suits,
Which would break down to the timbers worked I suppose, i.e like the lovely honduras mahogany
trees in Chippendales time, and favoured for it's workability isn't exactly the norm these days, but still used for acoustic necks on the fanciet of guitars, you might get away with uber sharpness alone,
or happy scraping down to get rid of tearout or be happy changing direction or whatever else other than planing in rows, i.e not planing in rows like Charlesworth would suggest.

Could be cuttin down yer own trees, and processing them, you'd need a scrub there.

Or could be planing a multitude of timbers whats available at the merchants, or even in the skips.
Here's what a freshly sharpened back bevel will do in the real world.
Should that be what folks are suggesting, as I mentioned Pabs was seemingly making good use of the cap iron already.

A real world scenario of refusing to utilize the cap iron, in a demanding circumstance.
I've cut to just after the sharpening bit, but you can skip back a few seconds to see.

 
Perhaps time for those who argue some demonstrations of the opposite?
This approach could be done for smoothing until then instead, should the irons not be interchangable, or whatever reason this iron wouldn't be used for scrub work of sorts,
Perhaps Pabs could give more information of his intentions with the plane, or his options
in regards to say what suits,
Which would break down to the timbers worked I suppose, i.e like the lovely honduras mahogany
trees in Chippendales time, and favoured for it's workability isn't exactly the norm these days, but still used for acoustic necks on the fanciet of guitars, you might get away with uber sharpness alone,
or happy scraping down to get rid of tearout or be happy changing direction or whatever else other than planing in rows, i.e not planing in rows like Charlesworth would suggest.

Could be cuttin down yer own trees, and processing them, you'd need a scrub there.

Or could be planing a multitude of timbers whats available at the merchants, or even in the skips.
Here's what a freshly sharpened back bevel will do in the real world.
Should that be what folks are suggesting, as I mentioned Pabs was seemingly making good use of the cap iron already.

A real world scenario of refusing to utilize the cap iron, in a demanding circumstance.
I've cut to just after the sharpening bit, but you can skip back a few seconds to see.


Difficult to follow R Cosman without nodding off. So slow!
I'm not sure what he's on about but appears to demonstrate the disadvantage of having a large one-piece work bench top i.e. it'll be unstable and you might have to flatten it.
Narrow better.
Even better two parts with a well - inherently more stable to start with but very easy to flatten if you have to. Though can't remember having to flatten mine in the last 40 years, except scraping off glue and any sticking up bits. Dents, holes, etc don't matter as long as they are below the surface.
 
@baldkev thanks for the pastoral check!
@aet1 not regretful more intrigued.

I've been reading up on all these links & I was enjoying the *spirited* discussion
Perhaps Pabs could give more information of his intentions with the plane, or his options
in regards to say what suits
Intentions:
  • practice as much as I can
  • learn as much as I can
  • try avoid cognitive bias when it comes to confidence and competence (someone mentioned the DK effect which took me pleasantly by suprise as usually its me teaching others about it in my world of work)

skills I am developing at present:
  • squaring /dimensioning timber by hand (using bandsaw for rip cuts, crosscutting with handsawl
  • accurate measuring & marking
  • chisel use for basic joinery skills
Options at present:
  • little block plane
  • no4 record x2 one I'm trying to restore and the other came to me with the blade filed as shown in OP (ebay)
  • no5 1/2 from 1956 which I have resharpened and adjusted and is my favourite atm
  • no6 cheap faithful one which I've tuned up as much as I can
  • old wooden rebate single iron which i don't know how to use yet
current projects
  • steppystand for 20month old
  • bench seat for dining room
Timber available for larger projects
  • pine & redwood
  • oak
  • red grandis
Timber available for smaller projects (as well as for bench slats etc)
  • sycamore
  • maple
  • ash
  • sapele
  • iroku
  • oak
 
@Pabs , are you still alive?
You stumbled across one of the forbidden topics! Just to clarify, you cant post about:
Sharpening
Planing
Rising damp
Mft tops
Any form of engineering
Pasties / cream teas
Track saws
Impact drivers
Weetabix ( ok i made that one up )
Politics
Finance / economics


Failure to heed this advice leads to a forum wide slanging match and much animosity..... you can however talk about coffee machines, that seems fairly neutral. Ive got a sage bambino plus 👍

Edit to add: keep it light guys, life's too short. Post your opinion and then stop, anyone who reads it can choose to give it a go, or not, we are all adults.
is descending damp OK?
we are (mostly?) British after all we need to talk about something damp
 
is descending damp OK?
we are (mostly?) British after all we need to talk about something damp
I guess so .... its not controversial. Do you have descending damp issues? 🤔
Edit to ask: is descending damp a wet leg?
 
Well, glad to see my time away hasn't seen any major changes to how threads go around here.
@Pabs , If you are worried about track marks from usin a straight edge iron, just apply a little extra pressure on the last couple of strokes of your final grit on either side of the iron before stroping (if you take it that far). The softening of the corners do not need to be visible to the eye to have an effect. Otherwise leave them to a scraper or fine paper, whichever technique you decide suites you best.
 
Only 6 times a night since 1903
Tamusolin helps.
I just hate it when I start sharpening ready for some serious planing of MDF and I have to go back indoors for one of my frequent calls of nature, it unsettles my line of thought about the current politically inspired economic problems.
 

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