GrahamIreland
Established Member
Ya happy, only thing is I found the European oak very tough to work with.
Might try the American version next time, it may be softer.
Might try the American version next time, it may be softer.
Round cafe table
- Thread starter GrahamIreland
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GrahamIreland
Established Member
I was thinking just clear coat acrylic or sprayed black.
These are just prototypes.
Id like to do another one maybe ebonise the top - but unsure of best way to do this...
These are just prototypes.
Id like to do another one maybe ebonise the top - but unsure of best way to do this...
custard
Established Member
GrahamIreland":3qfzvqn6 said:
Nice job Graham, looks very clean.
A good and permanent way to ebonise timber is by iron staining. The legs on this Bubinga desk that I made last month are iron stained Oak,
They're jet black and will remain that way for many years to come, impervious to light fading and most knocks or scrapes. I use this finish regularly, sometimes I scorch the Oak first with a blowtorch and then scrub it hard with a wire brush, this adds a lot of texture to the wood. Along with soap finishes for pale timbers this is a super fashionable finish at the moment.
It works best on Oak or Chestnut, or any timber high in tannin, but actually you can do it on any timber as the trick to a good result is pumping in as much additional tannin as the timber will take.
Stick a handful of wire wool in a jam jar full of standard 5% white vinegar or apple vinegar, punch a small hole in the lid to let it vent off. Leave it for a few days or a week to dissolve then strain off the muck and undissolved wire wool. This solution lasts a long time.
Make up a tannin solution. If you live near woodland the best way is by gathering Oak Galls, after that try boiling up a few handfuls of fresh Oak shavings and oak bark, if all else fails mix up an ultra strong brew of tea! This solution doesn't last more than a week or two. Tannin doesn't have much of a shelf life, which is probably why even Oak (unless it's air dried and freshly sawn) needs a helping hand.
In both these solutions add one drop of washing up liquid to act as a surfactant and break the surface tension. This is a critical step but it's rarely mentioned.
Paint the wood generously with the tannin solution. Work it well into the grain. Let it dry then lightly sand off the raised grain. Repeat two or three times. Even on Oak you'll almost certainly need much more tannin than is naturally present. Again, this is a critical step that's rarely mentioned.
Paint on the iron solution. Work it well into the grain. It may well go a deep red colour, don't worry. Let it dry.
Paint on one more coat of the tannin solution. Let it dry.
Burnish hard with shavings, a stiff nylon brush, or a rough rag. This will remove any final whiskers and it will turn most of the deep red colour to jet black.
Apply your preferred finish (they pretty much all work, personally I prefer oil or Osmo for iron staining) and that will complete the process of turning any remaining red or bronze colour to black.
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monkeybiter
Established Member
That's a delicious looking bit of Bubinga!
novocaine
Established Member
might be worth easing the underside edge with something like a 15 degree chamfer to give it a less chunky looking top. how is it attached to the base?
looks good, I do love the look of oak, especially when clear coated or oiled.
looks good, I do love the look of oak, especially when clear coated or oiled.
GrahamIreland
Established Member
Not a bad idea novocaine, chamfer might be a good call. - Its got a square plate on the leg - then screwed in 6 screws.
Custard - much appreciated, your posts are always great.
Yes, I have a few bits of scrap left over so could test my ebonised solution on that.
But Id have trouble even identifying an oak tree, not to mind finding Oak Galls.
How much tea would I add to the solution - maybe just tea leaves?
Custard - much appreciated, your posts are always great.
Yes, I have a few bits of scrap left over so could test my ebonised solution on that.
But Id have trouble even identifying an oak tree, not to mind finding Oak Galls.
How much tea would I add to the solution - maybe just tea leaves?
custard
Established Member
GrahamIreland":2mq4wggb said:
Four or five tea bags to a jam jar full of water will get the job done. But do keep your eyes peeled when you're out and about near Oak trees, sooner or later you'll spot galls clustered on leaves or on the stalk of the leaves. When you find one others won't be far away.
Tea tannin is okay, but gall tannin will give you a bit deeper penetration and slightly more intense black. The steel wool/vinegar solution is the easy bit, don't get too worried about that, the key is to load up the wood with as much tannin as possible, even Oak won't have enough surface tannin if it's been kilned or left for a while after machining.
Good luck!
memzey
Established Member
Can Van **** crystals be used for ebonising?
Custard
We have a couple of Stag Horn Sumach's in our garden which gaul every year, could these be used, Oh yes contrary to any advise given about Stag Horn Sumach's our's are over thirty foot high, in fact my hammock is strung between two.
Mike
We have a couple of Stag Horn Sumach's in our garden which gaul every year, could these be used, Oh yes contrary to any advise given about Stag Horn Sumach's our's are over thirty foot high, in fact my hammock is strung between two.
Mike
memzey
Established Member
Thanks Custard. What would you typically use them for then? I only ask because I got a bag of them (Liberon brand) in a job lot of finishing materials and am assessing their usefulness.custard":2pggwv9j said:
