Restoring an old Norris No 5

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mark, this is just my opinion, and it's obviously too late for you, but I think Harbo's planes look 'honest' - good usable condition, but looking aged by long use. The steel parts patinated by contact with the user's hands, the brass parts nicely dulled down. I think that's the ideal state for planes of this age and quality.
But your plane looks naked. If I was looking for one, I wouldn't buy it.

Maybe if you start using it, and keep on using it, it will settle down after a century or so.

This is all worlds away from taking a beaten up old Stanley and making it look like a new L-N.

It would be nice to see some before pictures.
 
I reckon it'll only take a few years to recover; the brass'll go much quicker. As long as you don't keep polishing the poor thing. Alternatively, perhaps you might as well go the whole hog now, Mark, and repaint the infills. Should think the shiny brass and black paint will make it look pretty striking, but then you will have to look after it to keep it looking good.
 
I'm firmly in your camp Andy...but as we have seen many times before...for every person who has our view...there are ten that have Matt's view (or is it the other way around :wink: ) and a collector would probably be screaming "NOOOOOOOO" by now....as it clearly looks like it was a good example "before".

I think naked beech looks aweful and would need staining as I said above...and if you are not selling it, then only you will be looking at it each day and it will eventually patinate...

This is a really interesting topic as clearly, that is what it would have looked like out of the box.

I think I fall in the middle camp, as I am just as much against the "pristine, untouched, original, never use it, put-it-in-a-glass-cabinet" brigade as I am against the "polish the a*rse off it with a wire wheel" camp.

I agree with Andy....I like Harbo's examples....unfortunately...mine usually done come that way in the first place!

Jim
 
bugbear":2w9ci2gm said:
jimi43":2w9ci2gm said:
For some reason...one of the previous owners has tried to obliterate it.

More likely either a reseller ("OEM"), or possibly a second.

BugBear

I don't think so BB...I found another example and I will have to dig it up but apparently this is quite an early one...there is one in Australia that recently surfaced although he paid a tad more than £1.50 for his!

..............................................................................................................................

EDIT UPDATE....here it is...in my old thread (homer) #-o DOH!

spierswithupsidedownlogo2.jpg


I just wish I could do my own name like that one! :shock:

...........................................................................................................................

The sole on this one was like Alton Towers....and totally unuseable...even though the mouth was tight with a 3mm replacement iron. This is one area where I think it is ok to lap it if you are going to use it and I fail to see how it would devalue it....it's not a bleedin' vase after all.

It makes lovely shavings now and I use it all the time for more exotic wood....

DSC_0133.JPG


....but I stopped at just cleaning the sap from the sides and left the finger "dents" as part of the other SOUL....

Even though it looks like a brick...it drives really well!

Jim
 
i agree with andy too. My norris is how it i recieved cared for but looks used (cabinet maker finish)



Also when set up these planes are just great
 
Regarding the wood, I am undecided - I am not sure how the stained and marked beech will look if I use linseed oil and wax for example, although that kind of finish would be my preference rather than the laquered black ebonised finish. Hmmmmmm...
 
It's your plane .... it's you who will be using it ....
Patinas on steel are all very fine and distinguished but one spot of rust (as a plane in regular use is prone to) and you have a major conservation crisis all over again.
And personally, I don't like varnish or lacquer on any handles that my hands are going to be rubbing around and :evil: paint :evil: would be an absolute horror.
 
Ah, I see someone has dragged up the pic's of my unused Norris. Still unused and it its box, I do have another that I do use along with my S&S's


Richard T":3k6a4xdx said:
I found these photos a while ago, I remember not from where or whom so apologies if they are anyone's watching, of a "new" Norris found still boxed and unused in a shop.
By the price on the box it would be 1940s and the original finish on the steel is proved once and for all to be .....




norrisa5newbox.jpg


Engine turned. :shock:


norrisa5new.jpg


I don't know how long this practice lasted, or how long the finish lasted but I'm guessing not long as this is the only one I have seen.
So maybe the purest purist would have it re done ..... I wouldn't. A cigarette case maybe - a plane? Don't think so :)
 
Here's the router I bought the other week - beech handles, covered in Record varnish, varnish paired off with chisel, boiled linseed applied - looks good to me.

DSC00621.jpg
 
If I go for the stained and oiled finish, do you think I should use a natural dark stain first, (wire wool in vinegar) and then put boiled linseed oil on? Should I use any kind of sealer first? After the linseed oile, some wax and a nice buff up?

Cheers, Mark
 
I would be tempted to stain with a red mahogany...if you like I will mix you some powder up to match a rosewood effect and drop it in the post. You then only have to apply a protective coat..I would use button polish or garnet polish on a makeup pad (cotton wool with lint free cloth either side you get from Boots in stacks).

You can test the colour right down deep in the mouth cavity on the front bun or bed and it won't show if you get it slightly wrong.

PM me your address if you want me to help you with this...I can test the colour on beech I have here and photograph it to show you

Hope this helps....

Jim
 
Waka":38fo4eeb said:
Ah, I see someone has dragged up the pic's of my unused Norris. Still unused and it its box, I do have another that I do use along with my S&S's


Richard T":38fo4eeb said:
I found these photos a while ago, I remember not from where or whom so apologies if they are anyone's watching, of a "new" Norris found still boxed and unused in a shop.
By the price on the box it would be 1940s and the original finish on the steel is proved once and for all to be .....

You certainly can, I'll have to do it on Monday because I'm off on a little weekend break shortly.

norrisa5newbox.jpg


Engine turned. :shock:


norrisa5new.jpg


I don't know how long this practice lasted, or how long the finish lasted but I'm guessing not long as this is the only one I have seen.
So maybe the purest purist would have it re done ..... I wouldn't. A cigarette case maybe - a plane? Don't think so :)
 
jimi43":2ft77rup said:
Can we see your S&Ss please WAKA...and your Norris...if we say pretty please.

You know I am a glutton for tool eye-candy!

Jim

Certainly can Jim but it will have to be on Monday as I'm off on a little break soon. It'll give you time to think about the candy.
 
Just put some stain together and tested on "clean" beech...

DSC_0203.JPG


Might be a bit too much red...what do you think?

Obviously it will need some shine...button polish would probably be best or Tru-Oil if you like touching that stuff...personally I love it but it ain't cheap!

If you want me to mix some up I can do it tomorrow and stick the powder in a little bag and all you have to do is mix it slowly with meths.

Jim
 
Hi Jimi, that looks pretty nice, although always tricky until you see it in real life.. If its no trouble I would certainly like to try it. I am pretty much decided that I am not going to do it black like it was before, I agree it would be nice if you could see the old wood and the various marks and stains etc that are in it. I want to have a nicely textured smooth natural look, but would not mind the wood being somewhat darker than it is "au naturel"....I have some boiled linseed oil as well, but no real experience of different finishes. The stain would go on first, then the oile and then what, buff off and some wax?

Cheers, Mark
 
Hi Mark

I sent you a pack of powder stain mixed up to the formula I use for beech handles on Stanley/Record planes...in the post today.

I had some mix left over so decided to fix up the last of my Stanleys not to have the restoration treatment today to ensure that I had got the mix right before you commit it to the Norris.

Here is the result on the front knob....

DSC_0227.JPG


I need to wait for the first seal coat to dry and then apply more polish...buff and then wax later but you get the idea.

If this is the look on beech that you are after...then the powder you have will do the job. Just follow instruction sent on applying it and build up the colour and let dry before you attempt to seal it with anything.

Cheers mate..

Jim
 
A quick footnote on dates:

Richard guessed at 1940s for the Norris plane in the box. I've just found an advert in the Woodworker for March 1951 showing the very same plane at the same price.

Sorry no camera or scanner available at the moment, but the picture is exactly the same, and the text just says

Norris London
Tools with a Tradition
since 1860 NORRIS has supplied the craftsman with fine tools

and gives the same price - £3 17s 6d and an address in Croydon.
 
Back
Top