Restoring an old Norris No 5

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Thinking about it, they went to the trouble of drawing in the effect on the box label so I guess they must have at least planned to engine turn quite a few.
This is, after all, the period during which the company was coming to a halt so maybe it was just a last- ditch, mad, prettification idea.
 
Well, I wont be selling mine, it's for my personal useage and enjoyment, ( therefore I am not worried abouts its resale value) so I will press on with the "restoration" to get it looking nice. Especially as its not one of the earlier rosewood types, that are very desirable, I think it will be good to clean off the pitting marks, polish it up and redo the paint.

I will put up some pictures to show you all the result.

By the way, great forum you have here guys.

Cheers, Mark
 
Mark, its your baby (or plane in this case :p) so I say do as much work as is required to bring it back to useable condition that you are satisfied with, sounds as if it was in pretty bad nick and could have been a lot worse, how many old planes were simply left to rust away, too far gone to be of any use, at least you got it at a stage where it can be put back to good use. Its not going in a museum display case, nor wont be propped on a shelf for the rest of its life, sounds if if you want a servicable plane from it so in that case I'm all for cleaning, restoring etc. They're not particularly 'rare', nor will you be selling it, as you mentioned, so, I dont see what the problem is :)
 
Richard,
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that is an engine turned finish. IIRC, engine turning is done on an ornamental lathe, and makes a very precise, geometrically perfect pattern, sometimes circular but more often with more complicated, 'planetary orbit' patterns.

The Norris finish looks more like the effect of using a very small power sanding disk, dotted down for a second, then moved on, making a series of light circular scratches. This would be fairly easy to reproduce, with a Dremel or similar. (I don't think I'd do it to a valuable and collectable plane though.)
 
You're quite right Andy, it's more like mock engine turning. And I have done this easily with a dremel type thingy before, too easily - I wasn't trying to.

Mark, in my experience shiny steel stays rust free longer than blemished steel. If it does start to rust it's easier to deal with and will take a very thin film of oil that won't mess up wood so much. So if you do feel the urge to polish it up pretty, there is a practical justification to do so.

If it were mine I would want to use it. So I would polish it up shiny and I would take the gunge off the wood. Even if it is beech I'd much prefer oiled beech than beech pretending to be something else disguised by gunge.
From what you say about the good condition of the iron and adjuster I'm sure it will be a lovely and useful plane.
 
I am a firm believer in using tools rather than stuffing them in a museum or other collection just to admire and if the ones I get are going to be kept and are not useable as they are...I am the first to try to restore them (sympathetically)...but my raised eyebrows were more to do with the way this thread went.

First we had:

Hi, I recently managed to buy a Norris number 5 infill type smoother. Its in not bad condition, but I would like it look better. The wood has been painted over with a gloss black finish and the metal sole and frame is in pretty good nick. It still works very nicely however.

Will I be reducing its value by restoring it ? If I go ahead, is there any pointers anyone can give me

....which leads me to believe it is not only in good condition but useable and that you intended to sell it....(at some time or other) otherwise you wouldn't have asked about reducing its value....

Which was followed by excellent replies indicating that you should do enough to it to restore it to useable condition...with guidance of retaining its value.

After a number of these replies your next post was....

Thanks for all the advice, I have started polishing up the sides and sole and the cap iron etc and its starting to look pretty nice.

There were some scratches and rougher patches on the paint, if I decide to strip it and refinish it, what would you recommend ? I t looks like it has several coats of laquer over the black finish. Is the black usually just paint or something else. i think the infill wood is lighter grain than rosewood, it looks more like beech or something like that.

...which (correct me if I am wrong...) means that you read the replies... then chose to do the opposite. :mrgreen:

At the end of the day...even if it was the only one left on the planet...it is YOUR only one left on the planet and so you can do what you like with it....I just thought it rather strange that you would ask advice in the first place though!

ALL of mine were really bashed about and horrendously disfigured, abused and missing parts...so for me there is no choice if I want to use them. From your original post...yours sounded like it was virtually untouched barring a bit of surface rust...

Without pictures it is hard to imagine...and please don't think that I am being aggressive because that is far from being the case...I just found it rather strange the way this thread went (is going).

Whatever you decide to do with it...I wish you luck and I know you will have a fine user plane which will outlive you and probably your sons!

In any case...none of us believe you have it until you show us pictures! That's the rule! :mrgreen:

Cheers mate

Jim
 
Blister":380erd0d said:
Pvt_Ryan":380erd0d said:
It says £3.17 on the box so I'll give you £4 for it.. :D

Thats

£3. 17 shillings and 6d

about

In 1950, £3 17s 6d would have the same spending worth of today's £88.27

conversion from http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/curr ... ts.asp#mid


:wink:

hands up who remembers £ shillings and pence

Me :roll:


True but £4 (back then) was still more than £3 17s 6d.. :p I just (intentionally) choose to neglect inflation.

Shillings were before my time but I still remember getting them as change from the shops (by mistake)
 
I have to dispute the relative plane values.
Back in 1950 the average wage for a Labourer was £5 (I could not find a Tradesman's rate) and from a Google source £4 is equivalent to £300 at today's money?
I was always led to believe that back in the old days, quality tools cost as much as a weeks wage so I think £4 was a lot of money back then?

Here's my small set of infills, cleaned up, waxed, sharpened and put to use:

spiers.jpg


norrisa5.jpg


norrisa1.jpg


The A5 has a Ray Iles blade fitted by him to fit the mouth. The Spiers has an American one (cannot remember his name - not Hock?) which I ordered to fit the A5, the maker cocked it up but it fits the Spiers. A1- original Norris iron.
I suppose I could remove all the varnish from the A5 but again I am not trying to make them look like new?

Rod
 
Now I've seen your Spiers bun...and armed with the knowledge gained since the day I got mine...I think I will redo my bun...

DSC_0153.JPG


I hadn't quite got the grasp of infill overlap...as you can see...but it was far better than when I picked it up...

DSC_0109.JPG


...where it was filled with some softwood...a long while ago but softwood none-the-less!

Mine doesn't have "Spiers Ayr" on the lever cap but I think it is one...

For £20 I ain't gonna puppy about it! :oops:

Any chance of a close-up of your lever cap on the Spiers one Rod?

If you remember rightly....I had a **** of a job identifying this old lady...

DSC_0043.JPG


Until I read the lever cap upside down...

spiersayrlogo.jpg


It's really strange that....

Jim
 
here is some pictures:

DSC00254.jpg


DSC00253.jpg


DSC00252.jpg


Dont think I am unheeding ( or ungrateful) of the advice , I just want the plane to look as nice as it can and I hate the signs of neglect such as pitting and bad finish.
 
Jim I have enlarged my original photo - it says "Spiers Ayr"

Let me know if you want more?

spiersfront1.jpg


Rod
 
Nice looking plane Mark!! Having seen the pictures though I'm not totally sure that the nice shinet body, iron/cap iron and brass cap fit with the rather battered looking infills, just an opinion. Have you any plans with what to do with them?
 
Looks fab Mark. The best thing for those infills is to polish 'em up with use; that's proper patina IMHO. A base of linseed then blood, sweat and tears.
I like what you've done with the sides too - quick wipe over with a (slightly) oily rag every now and then and they will last forever.
Now don't leave us hanging, how does it cut???
 
Yes that's fine Rod....it is the same as my lever cap but mine is upside down!

DSC_0003.JPG


For some reason...one of the previous owners has tried to obliterate it.

I have seen one old one that is upside down....you can read it as you look at it.

Hi Mark

That looks like beech, used to replace exotic tropical woods. It would have been stained to look like rosewood or ebony or (it would appear), painted black. I have to admit, I have never seen the black painted ones. I quite like beech but I like it stained.

It should look like new if you do that and then put some Tru-Oil on it. It is really lovely to handle...my favourite finish and used on gunstocks.

It may be the angle but the mouth looks huge...any shots from underneath?

Jim

Jim
 
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