Preferred way to grind primary bevels?

[Sailor]

Evening,

Has anyone used the Robert Sorby?

A friend who does a lot of lathe work has one and swears by it!

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/images/proedge1.jpg

Colin

 

[engineer one]

andy, just tried out your idea of using tormek part SVD 110
to produce cambered blades on a hand plane. just worked on an old record blade which i was going to discard.

i had thought that because you are putting the short end of the jig to the wheel, on the vertical support, basically, in place of the normal clamp,
you might have too much unsupported blade but because the wheel is coming toward you that is less of a problem than i thought it might be.
the reason for using the short end is of course you need the jig as near to the wheel as possible, and with the long end, you would have the thimble nut in the way.

i will try to adjust it nearer to the wheel later, as it appears in the drawing on the tormek accessory box, not sure how near i can get. :?

only real problem that i can see, is making sure the blade stays vertical, but if you are only modifying the camber after sharpening , then i cannot see the problem. except of course getting the same number of wheel rotations on each side. but then you have to remember that when
doing it by hand on a waterstone. :roll:

anyway first attempt quite quick and not bad, must try one of my
LV/LN blades to see what it does then.

paul :wink:

 

[AHoman]

only real problem that i can see, is making sure the blade stays vertical, but if you are only modifying the camber after sharpening , then i cannot see the problem. except of course getting the same number of wheel rotations on each side. but then you have to remember that when
doing it by hand on a waterstone. :roll:

Hi Paul,
The series of events that made it "click" for me:
0. I started to freehand on waterstones except for certain microbevels.
1. I had begun to use to the suede honing wheel with green honing compound to "touch up" my blades, and to save time I started doing it freehand.
2. Over at a friend's shop, I needed to establish a primarily bevel on a Hock blade for a plane that I had just made. He had a normal grinder with a flat surface for a toolrest. I hadn't tried this since I first learned to sharpen, and when I tried it this time, it was sucessful, but I didn't enjoy the grinder. Basically, I saw that a toolrest is somewhere halfway between freehand and a jig, but is a real timesaver.
3. Now I got the tool rest for the Tormek, and decided to give it a try. I use the horizontal grooves on the rest as a visual aid while moving the blade back and forth. Now I plan to use the original jig only for blades that must be perfectly straight across.
-Andy

 

[engineer one]

hi andy, must say i kind of agree with you, having so far only done two blades, i will continue with the experiment. but it does seem a decent way to move forward.

worked on the LV 41/2 quite well.
thanks for the heads up
:lol:
paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

having used this idea a couple of times i can see that there is a possible problem in that you have to be careful with the edge of the blade when you camber, otherwise you can chip the corner of the stone wheel when the edge can dig in slightly.

still it needed truing again anyway :lol: and with the new tool that's a breeze.

still working more carefully, this is definately a good way to initiate a camber using the tormek, as far as i am concerned.

paul :wink: