Preferred way to grind primary bevels?

[MIGNAL]

Hand crank grinder with a 80 G ruby red wheel although in hindsight the cheaper 100G white would have been more suitable. I go straight from this to a 8000G waterstone, then to green soap.

 

[engineer one]

silly question?? any bright idea about sharpening small hand held power planer blades, and at what angle??? :?

too wide for a roller holder, and too small for the tormek without spending on the plane jig, and no good in the scissors jig cause of the difficulty of locating.

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

silly question?? any bright idea about sharpening small hand held power planer blades, and at what angle??? :?

too wide for a roller holder, and too small for the tormek without spending on the plane jig, and no good in the scissors jig cause of the difficulty of locating.

paul :wink:

You make a holder, just a simple thing - a slot in the end of a bit of 2x1 with a bevel so that you can lower the blade to the angle required. Then do it freehand, keeping it as close as you can to the existing honing angle - just like any other blade or chisel really.
Speed it up by doing my style of rounded bevel honing, but be systematic so that you are doing the same amount to all the edges, to maintain balance.
PS or you could buy the veritas planer-blade honing guide, which has a lot of attractive brass knobs :lol:

cheers
Jacob

 

[engineer one]

thanks jacob, was kind of thinking that way myself,
actually i will cut the correct angle on the wood, and then cut a recess to allow the blade to touch the stone, then run on the stone in the flat.

thanks for the link too, but whose article., yours???

paul :wink:

 

[Benchwayze]

How did we manages before diamond stones, waterstones, Japanese Chisels, saws and planes?

I confess to using a Tormek these days, but I hone on a 3" wide oilstone I have had for aeons. I polish on a piece of slate.

I tried a Japanese dovetail saw, but just couldn't get used to sawing backwards!

John :?

 

[engineer one]

unless we were apprenticed, we muddled through, and threw the toys out of the pram because we were not happy about the sharpness. :twisted: :lol: :roll:

paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

personal observation,
hand sharpening power planer blades is a REAL PITA

because they are so small, they dig into bits of your hand you had forgotten you had :lol: , and because when they come to you they have mega lumps out you need to do it for ages. :roll:

ended up doing it free hand on an edgecraft diamond, seemed to be the only way to get what i needed.

i wonder whether the plane jig for the tormek works with short blades?

paul :wink:

 

[Neil]

i wonder whether the plane jig for the tormek works with short blades?

I think it might be the width of the blades which would give you problems, not the length.

Thanks to everyone for your input. The poll results so far are almost as I expected - I ordered the options according to what I expected the results to be, except for the catch-all option at the bottom. I just about got it right, except that I overestimated the popularity of abrasive paper for the grinding stage - I thought that there would be more people who wanted minimum up-front expenditure on sharpening and so would have to go down this road.

Anyway, I've ordered the x-x-coarse DMT stone from Dick - the price was too good to resist and it will still be useful even if I go down the wet grinder route later. I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[engineer one]

trust me neil the depth is a pain, but the length is a real pain :lol:
not least because it digs into the fleshy part of your thumb.

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

trust me neil the depth is a pain, but the length is a real pain :lol:
not least because it digs into the fleshy part of your thumb.

paul :wink:

Well that's why you need to make a holder, as I pointed out earlier :roll:

cheers
Jacob

 

[Ian Dalziel]

personal observation,
hand sharpening power planer blades is a REAL PITA

i wonder whether the plane jig for the tormek works with short blades?

paul :wink:

Paul....it might be a possibility to use the scissor jig for power planer blades in the tormek


for Primary Bevels i use a surface grinder with an angled vice....used to use a tormek but the SG is sooo much better.....i use an air/coolant mix to prevent overheating. secondry is waterstones.

I

 

[engineer one]

jacob i tried to make a handle with a lump of wood, but actually found it easier to work freehand. it took less time. :roll:

ian, i tried the scissor jig and it was not very good due to the problem with holding it properly and getting the angles right. :?

seems like the makita ones i am doing have an almost 50degree angle,
anyone have a chart about the various planer blade angles, and also why does a rotating drum need such an angle???

paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

found it :tool:

veritas make a small blade holder especially for spokeshave etc,
but as usual i had stocked it??(well you know what i mean :roll: )
so tonight i found it and have tried it on the tormek, bliss.

it's a holder with a couple of rare earth magnets, part number 05P32.03
and is thin enough to fit in the normal tormek chisel holder. which of
course makes sure it is square to the wheel.

anyway it should save me hours by hand (what a relief :lol: :roll: :twisted: )

paul :wink:

 

[AHoman]

I recently tried something new (to me) on the Tormek. I got the "Torlock" tool rest and have been using it for all kinds of blades. Its a flat tool rest like you'd use with a grinder. Initially, I got it for use with scrub plane blades. Worked great for them. Then I started sharpening other blades with slight cambers -- works a treat! Has anyone else had any success with this? I like it because I can leave it set up to my typical primary bevel angle. It has decreased the amount of time it takes me to regrind a primary bevel and eliminated some of the "fiddliness" of using the standard jig.
-Andy

 

[engineer one]

hi andy, can you give us a link, not heard of this before so would be interested to see.

paul :wink:

 

[AHoman]

can you give us a link, not heard of this before so would be interested to see.

sure:
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/tormek_jigs.htm
Scroll down to "tool rest with torlock".
Note that I am not using it for its intended purpose. However, a friend recommended it for sharpening primary bevels on scrub plane blades, and it worked great for that (for me). I also tried a number of slightly cambered bench plane blades. If anyone else tries it out and realizes that there is a reason not to keep doing it, please let me know, because as far as I can tell, it's great, particularly since I tend to go to a 6000 grit stone afterwards, freehand, and this makes the whole process very quick (especially since I can leave it set up at 25 or 30 degrees, locked into position).
Cheers,
-Andy

 

[engineer one]

ok mate, actually have that jig, and tried to use it for the planer blades
but of course it was not stable enough for such small things.

i can think of only one problem at the get go which is that it places the blade on the up motion of the wheel, tending to move it away from the support. however i can see it being valuable when put on the vertical stand and used as if using the normal plane or chisel jig.

was thinking about cambering some other blades this week, so will give it a try. thanks for making me think outside the box :twisted: :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[AHoman]

i can think of only one problem at the get go which is that it places the blade on the up motion of the wheel, tending to move it away from the support. however i can see it being valuable when put on the vertical stand and used as if using the normal plane or chisel jig.

Paul,
I haven't tried it on the horizontal stand with the wheel on the up motion, but I've been using it on the vertical stand -- so the wheel in effect pushes the blade against the rest. It took me a minute or two to come up with the right motion for the camber on the scrub blade, but once I found it, it was very smooth running. I had a scrub blade that looked like Fred Flintstone had put the camber on it (eBay find), and by the time it was done, it looked like a new scrub blade from LN.
-Andy

 

[engineer one]

hi andy it was just because of the way that the rest is pictured on the site.

that thought is good, though, will try

thanks for the help

paul :wink:

 

[newt]

course diamond stone and WD 40 same as paul.