Preferred way to grind primary bevels?

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What is your preferred way to grind the primary bevel on plane irons & chisels?

  • Slow-speed wet grinder (Tormek, Jet etc.)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • High-speed grinder

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Abrasive paper

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Coarse diamond stone

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Coarse waterstone

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Belt Sander

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Something I've forgotten

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
engineer one":1jnbaki6 said:
to make this smooth and polished takes more tools than making and keeping the bevel. :?

I don't understand you. I've only ever used my diamond stones and leather strop to flatten and polish backs of blades. What more do you use?

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
paul sorry, what i meant was how many diamond stones people end up buying.

or waterstones etc. maybe 3 to 4 then the strop. then the container, and
then we make a stand, and a holder etc.

i am being facetious i know, but :twisted: :roll:

another
paul :wink:
 
engineer one":2dadmlua said:
paul sorry, what i meant was how many diamond stones people end up buying.

or waterstones etc. maybe 3 to 4 then the strop. then the container, and
then we make a stand, and a holder etc.

i am being facetious i know, but :twisted: :roll:

another
paul :wink:

I have two daimond stone, one for the workshop and one for site :roll: :) :wink:
 
Paul Chapman":2o8u4am2 said:
But nobody on here has just one of anything :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

That's not true Paul. I have only one, um.......ah.........
Can I come back to you on this?? :oops: :lol:
Philly :D
 
But nobody on here has just one of anything
Well, gee. I have but one 45 degree smoother. Only one #1 round [well, I do have a half set :lol: ], only one 1/2" dado plane, only one ...

Ok, Ok. I get your point Paul :wink:

Off to see if I only have one hour of sleep tonight...Mike
 
engineer one":c2i0k2nu said:
typical irishnman :lol:
Not everyone who lives in Ireland is Irish, Paul :wink:

Colin C":c2i0k2nu said:
I use a HS grinder and have alway done
I thought you had a cheap Tormek from ebay, Colin?

Paul Chapman":c2i0k2nu said:
Another way, Neil, if you want to keep things as simple as possible, is to just use one bevel
Thats interesting, Paul. I use waterstones for secondary bevel/honing at the moment (in fact one of the attractions of the x-x coarse diamond stone is that it will be great for waterstone flattening) but I take your point about minimising the amount of grinding to do. I'll certainly try this out on the multiplane etc. (which doesn't get a lot of use :oops:)

Paul Kierstead":c2i0k2nu said:
Well, then, you would just have to buy more things to sharpen. You clearly are not thinking straight here.
You could have a point there, Paul :lol:

Cheers,
Neil
 
Interesting poll Neil - quite a mixture! I voted high speed grinder - but I use my extra coarse diamond stone too - it does depend how much grinding I have to do. The high speed grinder is great if you want to change bevel angles.
I've tried pretty much everything except a Tormek - for the exact reason Chris mentions - I would quite like a Tormek for grinding my primary bevel - but would feel I was paying a lot (not to mention the space requirements) for the honing part of it which I wouldn't use - am quite happy (for now ;)) with my honing routine. Before I got a high speed grinder I used my extra coarse diamond stone or belt sander (I still found you have to be pretty careful with a belt sander).
Cheers
Gidon
 
Hi Neil

I am not sure where you got that from as I might get a Tormek if I could get one ( very cheaply that is :wink: ).

The main thing with a HS grinder is not to push the tool on it but to let the grinder do its job, plus dont let the wheel get too glazed ( keep it dressed ). :)

I have a little dress for mine :roll: :-$
 
Hey! That XX Coarse DMT is a good price from Dick - dammit, already got a 'backup' in the post (though in consolation it does have some of Mike's teeth as a travel companion)
 
I voted for high-speed grinder, although it is a bit of a new thing for me.

Up until quite recently I've been shaping my primary bevels with a course waterstone (Norton 220) but I was finding that with A2 blades in particular this could take ages and keeping the stone flat was a real pain. If I dropped my 220 waterstone tomorrow and it broke I don't think I'd worry too much. I certainly wouldn't buy another one.

I recently bought an 8-inch, or 200mm, bench grinder that runs at 2850 RPM. The store where I bought the grinder only had one type of wheel other than grey ones, 80-grit white wheel with a K-bond, so I bought one of those as well. At about the same time I ordered a 60-grit Norton 3X grinding wheel from Joel at Tools For Working Wood (I couldn't find them in Australia). I ordered the 3X wheel because I read on some of the US forums that these are good for grinding A2 steels without burning them.

I initially installed the white wheel on my grinder and used it to grind some old high carbon steel chisels of mine that needed rehabbing. I found that I could grind these chisels quite successfully without burning them using the white wheel. I just proceeded slowly, but much more quickly than I ever could with my 220 grit waterstone, holding the chisel with one of my fingers up really close to the edge being ground. As soon as my finger started feeling hot I removed the chisel from the wheel and either let it cool in the air or dipped it in cold water.

Since this time my 3X wheel has arrived from the USA and I have installed it on my grinder. I haven't actually ground anything with it yet though. I'll have to let you know how it performs on A2 steel.
 
Mirboo - please do let us know how you get on with the Norton stone - I've been tempted to swap my 36 grit grey stone for one of those. All the American mags seem to favour it.
Cheers
Gidon
 
i see that the newest available issue in the uk, of popular woodworking
april 2007, has another sharpening article by michael dunbar,
he uses sandpaper, and dowels. still not sure how the american
types of sandpaper relate to ours??? :?

thought about expense, neil, how often do you use some of the actual tools you bought? some saws etc are not used as often as we hoped when we bought them. maybe the same decision should be made with these??

nah only kidding :twisted: :roll:

paul :wink:
 
There's the CAMI [US] and FEPA [Europe] standards for grading abrasives. The chart linked below has the corresponding grits, as well as to stones and in microns.

Much/most of the abrasives I buy here correspond to FEPA, such as the Mirka I purchase. I believe Norton's 3X is graded to FEPA also.

Up to about 240 grit they pretty much correspond.

The chart of course.

Take care, Mike
 
as usual thanks mike, it is not the grading so much as the different types.
we get told about various types of material used. and i am often unsure whether we can buy some of the types here.you know aluminium oxide,
and so on

plus of course getting things like emery cloth and paper here is getting more and more difficult. :cry:

paul :wink:
 
Hey Paul--seems like I am getting more and more in a hurry and dashing off posts before reading a tad more carefully :oops:

The Mirka brand for wood working [Gold, Silver etc.] are aluminum oxide. Their Sica products are Silicon carbide. They have the different weighted backings and can go from quite flexible to quite stiff.

But...they don't do Garnet nor Emory as far as I know. We still can get Garnet and the other natural rock product sandpaper from a variety of manufacturers, but it is getting spendy. And I don't think they are worth what is being charged now, either. Whoever carries 3M brand sandpaper can probably get them for you. The 3M web site may list distributors.

For most our stuff now, from wood to working metal, we buy the Norton 3X. Best stuff around for the longevity and finish it can provide.

When I am working on an actual woodworking project, I like the Mirka.

Take care, Mike
 

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