Poxy Stud

[Nick W]

I'm going to be attaching some metalwork to my woodwork using studding epoxied in (to end-grain). Thing is, does anyone know what sort of clearance I should allow between the studding and its hole in the timber for the epoxy?

 

[radicalwood]

Hi Nick,

would no go above 0.5 on the dia just so you can keep some accuracy, you could also tap the hole and use the epoxy as well.

hope this is ok

Cheers Neil

 

[Nick W]

Thanks Neil.

 

[woodbloke]

A useful tip is to clean the studding in meths before glueing - gets off any residual grease etc.

 

[gwaithcoed]

Hello Nick

I have used car body filler to fix screwed rod into end grain on the side rails of a bed that I was making some 6 years ago. Never budged and have used it on 4 other beds since then.

I also fixed my newel posts in with it when putting banisters up the stairs.

Alan.

 

[johnelliott]

Here's my tips for using epoxy- first of all, use the Araldite slow setting stuff, it's stronger. When you mix it, warm it with a hair dryer of hot air gun (gently). It will go translucent meaning all the micr air bubbles have come out, also it will flow more easily. When you apply it, warm it again and more air will come out which will mean a stronger joint

John

 

[Shady]

John's tips are good - note also that the clearance is not relevant for strength, only for accuracy. If you make up some sort of jig/positioning blank (wax the base to break the seal with the epoxy...), this is not an issue. Mix with sawdust or the (more expensive) colloidal silica from someone like West System to make a much thicker consistency. If it were me, with, say, an M6 studding, I'd drill a hole twice it's cross section/radius. Pack with thickened epoxy, insert studding through positioning jig, and leave for 24 hours.

Beware over heating when mixing.

 

[RogerS]

I discovered that one of the trusses in the outbuilding is not tied into the wall-frames at either end. There has been some movement and I want to stop any more.

After reading this thread I was thinking about inserting a threaded metal stud (20mm dia?) into the endgrain of the truss and then through the wallframe at either end so I can secure the truss with nuts/washers.

Is this the best way to go? Araldite as epoxy? The oak is about 6 years old IIRC.

 

[kafkaian]

I'm going to be attaching some metalwork to my woodwork using studding epoxied in (to end-grain). Thing is, does anyone know what sort of clearance I should allow between the studding and its hole in the timber for the epoxy?

I'd like to see a picture of the end process when finished

 

[David C]

I am pretty sure that the West manual suggests an oversized hole, more than 0.5 mm larger, maybe 2 to 3mm space all round?

This type of fixing is used to secure Yacht fittings to decks, and was much used by the Makepeace workshop.

David C

 

[Nick W]

This was covered in my article in Issue 188 of Good Woodworking, where I said

I used 6mm studding and a 9mm drill.

The important thing is to make sure that the epoxy is worked well into the threads on the studding, and that there is enough additional epoxy in the hole to ensure that it will be well filled when assembled. After inserting the studding give it a good stir around to get the two masses of epoxy well integrated.

Roger, there are specialist building products for attaching bolts/studding to structures; I would have thought that one of them would be your best bet. See p 48 of the current Screwfix catalogue for some examples.

 

[Losos]

use the Araldite slow setting stuff, it's stronger.

Nice to see someone confirm what I've always thought ('tho never been able to prove)

All the epoxy manufacturers are very coy about admitting the relative strength of 'quick set' to 'slow set' types, at least as far as I could ascertain.

 

[RogerS]

Thanks, Nick..I did see this after posting but the text refers to building/masonry etc and not specifically wood. Does anyone have experience of these products in wood?