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I had a little play at a friends workshop, bridgeport, lathe and all his stock at my disposal.
So I made a couple of scratch awls, some marking knife blades and turned a cheap 38mm chisel into a flush chisel. Turned the handles at home from bits and pieces I had laying about.





 
It has been a while since I have posted here (and by a while, I mean a few years). I have not been away from woodworking, just away from forums of any kind.

Anyway the most recent thing I have built was a new front knob for an old Stanley No.4. This was an old plane I picked up from an auction, or a car boot sale some years ago and put on the shelf to forget about. After watching Richard Maguire's latest video on cap irons and smoothing planes I figured I would break this old plane out and have a got at restoring it. The plane is a standard No4, but it had wooden tote and knob so it must be fairly old.

The tote was fine, but the varnish was flaking of; the blade had a little pitting, but was flat; the sole of the plane was dead flat. The only thing that needed replacing was the front knob as it had cracked and split up one side. I did a first attempt in beech to match the tote, but it did not go so well, so this second attempt was in Yew.

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Yes I know that the hole in the top is too large. Unfortunately it needed an 11mm hole and my metric drill bits only go up to 10mm. So I picked the next size up imperial bit, which was half inch.

At some point I will need to make a new tote in yew to match as the current one wobbles from side to side a bit (the hole for the pin at the front of the tote is far too large). For the moment the rear tote just got the varnish sanded off and polished on with a variety of polishing compounds. Unfortunately whatever they used to stain the wood went quite deep so it looks too dark.
 
One way to cure the wobble is a small blob of car body filler in the hole, wax the pin so you can get the tote off, screw it down leave to set.
I think a yew tote would look very nice.

Pete
 
Pete,

I think that the previous owner of the plane had tried something similar, except that they used wood glue. The results were less than successful as the glue did not stick to the enamelling at all and just made a mess of the bottom of the tote.
 
It may not be the prettiest of workshops and workbench, but it works for me.

I've built a drop down 'flap' for my mitre-saw. In the up position the cutting surface is level with the workbench and allows a full scope of movement. In the down position the gap can be covered with a piece of workbench which I have fabricated from 3 pieces of plywood laminated together, thus extending the working surface.

Not highly technical, nor will it win any beauty prizes but it makes my life easier in the workshop.
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I made some components for an impeller build, which will become my dust collection system. And my workbench is way uglier than Pennys (which looks quite nice). OSB top, spilled some stain on it too. But it'll be easy to replace when it's worn out. All the little marks on the impeller are from balacing once side, I'll handle the other once I'm done with the vanes.

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Penny":17unxwmp said:
I've built a drop down 'flap' for my mitre-saw. In the up position the cutting surface is level with the workbench and allows a full scope of movement. In the down position the gap can be covered with a piece of workbench which I have fabricated from 3 pieces of plywood laminated together, thus extending the working surface.

I think the most interesting workshops are full of ingenious solutions like that. Got any more?
 
monkeybiter":1ql7e8rb said:
Penny":1ql7e8rb said:
I've built a drop down 'flap' for my mitre-saw. In the up position the cutting surface is level with the workbench and allows a full scope of movement. In the down position the gap can be covered with a piece of workbench which I have fabricated from 3 pieces of plywood laminated together, thus extending the working surface.

I think the most interesting workshops are full of ingenious solutions like that. Got any more?

i totally agree with monkey biter about this
i would love to see some photos of your setup penny
and photos of other peoples solutions
cheers paul
 
Last weekend I had an unexpected 8 hrs of undisturbed peace and quiet when SWIMBO took the little darlings out for some rowdy party or other at what can only be described as a large padded cell for adrenaline fuelled kids - sounds horrific to me. I was only too glad to be left alone in the workshop.

Anyway, the missus had been asking me for ages for a new bathroom cabinet so with Brownie points in mind this was produced:

Oak Bathroom Cabinet-7.jpg


The mirrors were done on the Monday (cost about £45) and lo SWIMBO did issue aforementioned brownie points in the form of a truly splendid chunk of prime dry aged rump steak from our local beef farmer. A fair trade methinks.
 

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Thanks everyone :)

xy mosian":fprxw6h4 said:
Doris":fprxw6h4 said:
Thanks chaps. Wish my joinery skills were better though. I can't dovetail for toffee.

Ah but you can see 3D curved surfaces, and their relationships.
xy

There's more room for error here though than dovetailing :?
 
Doris":3pgboubd said:
Thanks everyone :)

xy mosian":3pgboubd said:
Doris":3pgboubd said:
Thanks chaps. Wish my joinery skills were better though. I can't dovetail for toffee.

Ah but you can see 3D curved surfaces, and their relationships.
xy

There's more room for error here though than dovetailing :?

Dovetailing is something that can be learnt with practice and patience, what you have there is a natural talent =D>
 
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adjustable height can opener. lots of very inspiring work being posted ;)
 

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