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very nice cabinet, one day I will attempt proper dovetails
just wants some clear perspex on shelves and drawer bottom so you can wipe all the meds up that leak :)

Steve
 
This is the first piece I actually designed as well as made myself, a custom size TV corner cabinet for one of my mothers friends, she hasn't seen it yet, hopefully she'll like it, the front apron at the bottom is actually dovetailed, if I made it again I'd just use a simpler mortice and tenon joint, otherwise very happy with how it turned out. It's made to match her exsisting cream painted with oak top furniture in the room. The american white oak top is finished with tung oil, and the rest is laminated redwood painted with eggshell paint.
 

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thetyreman":1zahd6al said:
This is the first piece I actually designed as well as made myself, a custom size TV corner cabinet for one of my mothers friends, she hasn't seen it yet, hopefully she'll like it, the front apron at the bottom is actually dovetailed, if I made it again I'd just use a simpler mortice and tenon joint, otherwise very happy with how it turned out. It's made to match her exsisting cream painted with oak top furniture in the room. The american white oak top is finished with tung oil, and the rest is laminated redwood painted with eggshell paint.

I'm sure she'll be thrilled, and so should you be. That's a tidy job. In particular I really like the care you put into jointing up the boards for the top. You chose flat sawn boards that peter out to rift sawn on both edges. That's given cathedral grain in the board centres for interest and vitality, but straight grain towards the edges for invisible and harmonious jointing. When you see jointed tops that have clashing grain along the joint line it just looks careless. So well done!

=D>

The decision on wether or not to extend the sides out at the back above the skirting board (so as to but up against the wall) is always tricky. It may get moved in the future to a location with a different height skirting board, and in any event the gripper track underneath the carpet will always tip furniture forwards by a few degrees. So on balance I think you've called this right. If it were to sit on an engineered wooden floor with an upstand then there's a counter argument, but in this situation I get your logic.
 
that skirting in our house really is weird from the 1930s, it's 1 and a half inches thick, this isn't its final resting place,

I'll take another picture in her kitchen tomorrow, should hopefully make more sense in context, thanks for the praise, I really appreciate it. I didn't realise that you could make space and scribe the skirting shape into the back edges, learning something new all the time...
 
here's the cabinet in it's final place in the clients kitchen, she was very happy with it indeed, great reaction.
 

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That's a lovely looking corner unit Thetyreman and obviously built to last.

Memzey that medicine cabinet is a beaut - blind dovetails and you say that's your first time using that technique in a piece (or did you "cheat" and use a DT jig? heh and even if you did, saved you the headache right?)

The way you talked at Richard's meet last month, you claimed to be a basic hacker, not so my friend, that is quality work, I'm honestly envious.
 
Do non wooden things count? If so, an outdoor kitchen, still in progress but starting to look more finished now that I got the 1st layer of plaster on
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Thanks for the kind words everyone and nice to hear from you Rafe. To confirm: no DT jigs were molested in the making of the cabinet. All dovetails were cut by these oafish hands. Just to clarify as well, they are the first dovetails I've used on a project but not the first I've cut at all. I'd been practicing through and lap dovetails for quite a while before feeling ready to incorporate them into a project. To say that the very first practice ones I cut were gappy and ugly would be an understatement!
 
memzey":2ke7zxdh said:
Thanks for the kind words everyone and nice to hear from you Rafe. To confirm: no DT jigs were molested in the making of the cabinet. All dovetails were cut by these oafish hands. Just to clarify as well, they are the first dovetails I've used on a project but not the first I've cut at all. I'd been practicing through and lap dovetails for quite a while before feeling ready to incorporate them into a project. To say that the very first practice ones I cut were gappy and ugly would be an understatement!

I'd still say those were excellent quality, about as "professional" as it gets - I was sure you had done DT's before, but I doubt you did hundreds; but it certainly looks as though you had, even close up; and blind DT's must be much trickier to get bang on.

*cough* I'll let you off the base DT second from the front, left side :)

I do have a question though - what's going on with the rail above the drawer where it meets the sides? I can't quite make out what you've done there.

I noticed you bailed on the invisible hinge ideas, next time eh? :)
 
Hey Rafe. The fixed shelf is a simple (but oafishly executed) through housing. Should have been the easiest joint in this project but easily the messiest I made. I probably got cocky as these joints I know I can make and there is no doubt a lesson for me here. As for letting me off: mate there's a lot more than that dodgey dt going on here! Mrs. memzey likes it but I can see it's riddled with flaws I will not make again. To me each project is like a bellwether letting me know how I'm doing. The errors are still present but less obvious and more liveable as I go from extremely oafish to less so with time and practice. Still I am awestruck by much of the work posted on these boards and know I am not even close to replicating most of it. I might let you all in to the chaos with a wip thread next time if I'm feeling confident and the shed is tidy!
 
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I recently finished this built in wardrobe. All birch ply & tulip.

Sorry about the size of the picture! Struggled to figure out how to upload it.
 
The cabinetry looks first rate, in particular the drawer pulls and brass hingeing work really well with that colour. However, the exposed inch or two of T&G and jamb above the doorway looks a bit unfinished. I think you can just get away with the coving running in over the cabinetry provided the scribing elsewhere is neatly done, but add in that T&G/jamb and it tips the visual balance from "built in" to "sort of fitted".

Not being rude by the way, just my honest opinion.
 
Maybe a broad flattish architrave in the same colour as the very smart looking wardrobe all around this side of the door jamb would sort that out. [Décor not really being my forte]
 
I've just completed a simple but chunky hall table. It's made from sweet chestnut, with the top and shelf being one piece boards. I also managed to cut the drawer fronts out from a single board to get a perfect (to me) grain match with the front panel with the use of multi tool and Japanese saw. It's finished with two coats on English tint Fiddes hard wax oil and waxed with their light brown supreme wax. Joinery is with dominoes and the dovetails were cut with a router and jig (I enjoy using machines and power tools more than hand tools hence this approach).

I took these pictures at night time with indoor lights hence the poor shadow and colour spread.

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